Canon EOS 80d Owners Thread

Went off to Exmoor on boxing day to try and catch some red deer. These were taken with my Sigma 150-600 and TC1401 converter on a monopod. Had trouble holding the lens steady as I would have liked as mr potato head forgot his gloves!! Still impressed by the 80D and Sigma 150-600 C

deer 4 by mazdaman2008, on Flickr

deer 3 by mazdaman2008, on Flickr

deer 2 by mazdaman2008, on Flickr

Deer 5 by mazdaman2008, on Flickr
 
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Happy to report that the saga of my exdisplay-sold-as-new 80D has concluded. Swapped it out for a new one at Jessops this morning. So, other than a massive inconvenience and missing out on some great frosty/sunshine photo opportunities, I'm looking forward to getting out there and seeing what it can do!
 
spent the last few days micro adjusting my camera and the sigma 150-600 sport as i had come to the conclusion that they were just a tad soft .proved correct think i have finally got there ,heres one from the first stage yesterday with plus 8 dialled in .increased that today to +9 and its even sharper .well pleased .

the mirror kracked by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
 
spent the last few days micro adjusting my camera and the sigma 150-600 sport as i had come to the conclusion that they were just a tad soft .proved correct think i have finally got there ,heres one from the first stage yesterday with plus 8 dialled in .increased that today to +9 and its even sharper .well pleased .

the mirror kracked by jeff and jan cohen, on Flickr
Jeff have you made any adjustment with a Sigma dock or did you just adjust via the 80D body? Looking at your photo on my phone it looks very sharp.

Mine copy of my Siggy is slightly soft so need to spend some time sorting out
 
nice one Jeff. When I get chance I intend to check the 'C' model I have. Just occasionally I think it could be better, probably my poor handling of it but worth a check.
 
Jeff have you made any adjustment with a Sigma dock or did you just adjust via the 80D body? Looking at your photo on my phone it looks very sharp.

Mine copy of my Siggy is slightly soft so need to spend some time sorting out
No I have just done it in camera ,I have the right gear for doing it and a repeatable method I have used for various cameras an lenses
 
No I have just done it in camera ,I have the right gear for doing it and a repeatable method I have used for various cameras an lenses
I am thinking of buying Focal software in the new year if I cannot dial in the lens a bit better manually
 
No I do mine in camera ,if you do it in lens then change bodies it will be all wrong .
I have a triangular measuring scale as per that video ,but set it up inside the house ,I set the tripod up in our hall and focus down the length of the kitchen the scale is set up at the far end ,I ensure the tripod is level and at roughly the same height as the scale ,
The camera is set in one shot ,lens wide open ,I.s off ,I use my gimbal head on tripod but it's locked down virtually solid . Start by aiming at centre of target take a few shots for consistance and then remove card and Check on computer screen .,
It should be obvious right away whether your back or front focussing ,if its front as mine was then you have to move focus back + increments so then take 4 shots at plus 5 ,four shots at plus ten ,and four shots at plus 15 .remove card and check again on computer it will again be obvious which is in focus at zero .if for instance it's plus ten that looks best ,the do further sets at plus 8,9,11,12 one of them should come out as sharpest and slap you in the face .
Leave that setting in the camera and then go out and take some shots on real time subjects to ensure it's right ,with me I found that +8 looked good but in practise +9 is slightly sharper .
Hope this explains it better .
 
Thanks for the detail Jeff, I'll give it a go. Do you change the settings each time you use a different lens and keep note of what settings work with each lens?
 
Thanks for the detail Jeff, I'll give it a go. Do you change the settings each time you use a different lens and keep note of what settings work with each lens?
I virtually only ever use the one lens ,but once you have put the parameters in the camera they are then stored in there anyway .it will know what lens your using and use those settings automatically .
Another reason I state don't do M.A in the lens .also a good idea to check any used camera purchase in case settings for a lens the same as yours have been put in which will not b the same adjustments
 
Happy to report that the saga of my exdisplay-sold-as-new 80D has concluded. Swapped it out for a new one at Jessops this morning. So, other than a massive inconvenience and missing out on some great frosty/sunshine photo opportunities, I'm looking forward to getting out there and seeing what it can do!

What excuse did they give for this blunder?
 
I'm now also a happy 80D owner. Got it over the Christmas break (purchased from London Camera Exchange as they price matched for me) and I'm very, very happy with it. Coming from a 1200D is quite a jump up for me, but the additional features are fantastic. I wasn't ready to commit to buying into a Full Frame system as I have got a few lenses that are EF-S that I can make good use of now.

There is always something I would like to pair with it in terms of a lens - like a good telephoto as all I have at the moment is a not very sharp Canon EF 75-300. But this was quite a big outlay for me, so I'm just enjoying the camera for now.
 
TIP ALERT .
it has never dawned on me till someone mentioned it on another forum ,but the focus modes (4) are fully progamable in your cf settings ,i.e i do lots of birds in flight shots and scrolling through the four settings is time consuming and could result in lost shots ,so i have now knocked out the middle two settings 9 point and 15 point just leaving single point and 45 point as the two options so i can change from bird on branch to bird in flight with just one simple button push and instantly back again .its only a little tip but one that changes the whole comfort level of the camera in use
 
Exposure Compensation question...

In AV or TV exposure compensation can easily be dialled in by half depressing the shutter button, releasing, and then turning the mail wheel. :)
In full Manual, obviously the exposure is selected by the 3 points of the exposure triangle.

However, if you use Manual mode with Auto iso, exposure compensation is once again a tool in your arsenal that you may want to use.
I've found that this can be fairly easily dialed in from the Q menu (and I assume that it can be selected from the main menus), but is there a button combination that allows you to alter the exposure combination without resorting to the menus? It doesn't seem to be the main or rear wheels.

I like to have the SET button assigned to this. In M mode you can hold down the SET button and then change the Exposure comp by turning the top dial at the same time. Very handy IME.

I posted a while ago about my issues with the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8. Ive now given up on that lens completely and got the Canon 16-35 f/4 IS. What an amazing lens and Af is spot on and very fast. Ive only had it a few days, but so far im getting keepers at 1 sec hand held. Although it wont replace my 10-18 it will be used a lot more, and will be coming to Florida with me next month.
I know it seems a bit strange to buy this for the 80D, and originally i got it for my 5Dmkiii so id have the same wide angle ability as the 10-18 gives me on the 80D, but after i tired it on the 80D I realised how well its going to work on both formats.
 
TIP ALERT .
it has never dawned on me till someone mentioned it on another forum ,but the focus modes (4) are fully progamable in your cf settings ,i.e i do lots of birds in flight shots and scrolling through the four settings is time consuming and could result in lost shots ,so i have now knocked out the middle two settings 9 point and 15 point just leaving single point and 45 point as the two options so i can change from bird on branch to bird in flight with just one simple button push and instantly back again .its only a little tip but one that changes the whole comfort level of the camera in use

I think maybe i saw that thread as well, i now only use all points and single point AF.
 
Another week, another new lens. I'm getting ready for my Florida trip next month and have decided to leave the 5D and L stuff at home. As good as the 16-35L is there just doesn't seem a reason to take it.
I think the 80D is going to be perfect. I was thinking of taking the 18-135 STM but the AF is a bit slow, so I got the 18-135 IS USM Nano. I traded some lenses in with WEX so had some credit, plus it was the last day of the Canon winter cash back. Worked out cheaper than getting it from HK.

Very impressed with the AF speed, and the IQ seems on a par with my STM version (which i find to be very good). It doesn't have quite the 'pop' my new 16-35 has, but considering the smaller size and much more useable zoom range i cant wait to get out these with it. Going to take a couple of small prints as well.

It's funny but I have never brought a Canon body with kit lens, yet i now have 3 of them (although i will sell the 18-135 STM) at some point. Anyway, here's a shot i took with the new 18-135, just edited in LR on my iPad, and i hope to post something with the 16-35 soon. Just cant get it off my 5D at the moment.


Busker at Trafalgar Square.
by Dave Pearce, on Flickr
 
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So chaps, I've currently got a Sigma 17-50 f2.8 on the 80D as my main walk-around. It is a cracking lens, but I am in want of some extra reach without having to switch lenses, especially with a holiday to the alps coming up in March, so I am looking at the 18-135. I'm not worried about the loss of speed from making the switch, the fixed f2.8 is nice but I'm also going to get a 50mm prime for low light portrait stuff.

Question is, what versions do you lot have? The USM is obviously better but it is £400 new, whereas I can get a secondhand STM in as new condition from MPB for £224. I know it isn't much more but I don't have the money to throw around at the moment.

Anyone have the STM? How does it perform?
 
I have both the STM and Nano versions. Both are very good lenses. The Nano focuses faster, and looks nicer (IMO). It feels more like a lens costing a bit more, but IQ is the same on both. Nice and sharp in the center and not too bad at the edges.
The reason i got the Nano version is the STM is a bit slow to focus. Its spot on, but cant quite keep up with my Son on his skateboard. The Nano is much better.
 
Thanks for that. I've also seen the 15-85mm being talked about now, though I own the 10-18mm so don't need the extra at the wide end... Hmmm, decisions.
 
I had the 15-85 and its a lovely lens. i sold my 17-55 f/2.8 to get it. My only issue with it was the lens creep, which although not a big deal for some really irritated me.

I'd say if your on a budget the 18-135 STM is ideal, especial y second hand. It sounds liek it will be used a lot and i dont think there is anything else around that covers this range, with this quality. I really surprised myself when i got mine, as i had been using a 5Dmkiii and 24-70 f/2.8 mkii before getting my 80D. I wasnt looking forward to going backwards to a kit lens, but its more than capable of getting the job done.

As far as primes go, ive also been knocked out by the 50mm f/1.8 STM. Although it was a few years ago id say its sharper than my old 50mm f/1.4. At lest the STM can be used wide open without issues.
 
The other one I was considering was a 24-105 f4L IS, which could also be used if I went to a full frame setup in the future. But the logic isn't quite right there, I've only just got the 80D so I won't be changing again anytime soon, and may not even stick with Canon if I were to, so judging on it's merits solely for APS-C use I think I would be better with the 18-135.

Thanks for the response, I think my mind is made up...
 
Ive got a mates 24-105 at home, mainly to use on my 5Dmkiii. I have owned 3 in the past, two on crop cameras. Its not ideal IME. It was good back then, but these days i find the usability of a lens is more important (within reason) than ultimate sharpness (well, we wouldn't buy crop cameras if it were ;-).

I really dont see much in the way of IQ difference between the two on my 80D, although i suppose the 24-105L will edge forward if you're pixel peeping away from the canter, and of course its a bit faster and weather sealed.

Ill be selling my 18-135 STM once ive broken the Nano in, probably in a couple of weeks. I paid £160 for it off my mate and id be happy to sell it for that as well, although it didnt come with a box or manual. I did buy a hood for it though. I just need to make sure the new lens is 100% the way forward.
 
Just put a 70-200 on my 80d and appear to have lost the 7fps.
Any ideas?
Was using auto ISO, and shutter at 1:1000 in TV mode. H shown in the box and I focused with single spot metering
Guess I pressed a wrong button?
 
I cant think of any setting that would slow this down other than using normal or silent shooting. I think AI AServo can slow things down as well.

Could it be you are using a higher ISO which would cause the files to be larger? I cant see it myself but its the only thing that comes to mind.
 
There are also settings in the custom functions menu that let you adjust whether the AF should prioritise speed or accuracy. (in the Menu, 4th tab along (orange colour), then C.FnII:Autofocus) Have you changed anything in there or are you on a 'custom settings' setting where this could be different from your usual setup?
 
Question re wifi shooting - is it possible to use a personal hotspot from say a mobile to connect the camera to that said phone? Say you are out of range of wifi, how do you connect the camera to phone to use that function? Anyone know?
 
Question re wifi shooting - is it possible to use a personal hotspot from say a mobile to connect the camera to that said phone? Say you are out of range of wifi, how do you connect the camera to phone to use that function? Anyone know?

Well, it is in the manual if you care to look ;-), but a quick answer is the camera creates its own hotspot that you connect the phone to.
 
Well, it is in the manual if you care to look ;-), but a quick answer is the camera creates its own hotspot that you connect the phone to.

Thanks mate I must have missed it when I read the manual cover to cover!! I have actually read this part but it didn't compute will have a look
 
No problem. I must admit to not looking at the separate WiFi manual, it all seemed pretty straightforward. One thing to watch out for is you need to create a new connection for each device you want to link the camera to. So if using an ipad and ipnoe (for example) you need to set up different connections.

At least, that's how i found it to work.
 
Although ive got 3 good tripods i never seem to use them. today i got a Joby Gorillapod SLR and its very nice. It fits in my camera bag and seems sturdy enough to use with my 80D and any lens i have. I wasnt going to bother with a tripod fo rmy Florida holiday later this month but now im sorted.

Even though it was quite windy today i managed to get these with it. 80D with 18-135 IS USM Nano.

First one is a 13 sec exposure.

the pink oasis
by Dave Pearce, on Flickr


This was only a 4 sec exposure.

Royal Festival Hall
by Dave Pearce, on Flickr

Im starting to find that MFA +11 is bringing some of my cheaper lenses to life. This is just using my eye, im going to try and calibrate them with FoCal at the weekend. I was beginning to doubt the lenses but i have a feeling the camera is a bit more sensitive to whats put on it.
 
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Let us know how you get on with your Focal adjustment Dave. Its something I need to do on mine just need to buy Focal when the weather gets better
 
Will do. Ive actually had it since before version 2 came out, but other than playing with it when i first got it ive not had the opportunity to really get to grips with it. Back then it kept crashing and to be honest the results i was getting were not the settings my eye said to use.
I also never had access to a lap top so doing any lens other than short primes/zooms was not going to happen as i was tied to my PC.
 
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