Haida 10 stop filters

No sure what the vf caps like on canon but on my nikon you have to take the rubber off first before you can place the cap on. I really can not be bothered with that. Just place a lens cloth or something over it.
 
No sure what the vf caps like on canon but on my nikon you have to take the rubber off first before you can place the cap on. I really can not be bothered with that. Just place a lens cloth or something over it.

I just need to flick a switch :D
 
Live view makes no difference - light is still coming in through the viewfinder. Only electronic viewfinders are unaffected.

Perhaps it depends on the camera. From the 60D manual:

If you take a picture without looking at the viewfinder, light entering the eyepiece can throw off the exposure. To prevent this, use the eyepiece cover (p.23) attached to the camera strap
During Live View shooting and movie shooting, attaching the eyepiece cover is unnecessary

My experience backs this up. Incorrect exposure and ghosts when not using LV, no problem with.
 
Perhaps it depends on the camera. From the 60D manual:

My experience backs this up. Incorrect exposure and ghosts when not using LV, no problem with.

No, it does not depend on the camera. All DSLRs are affected by light entering the (optical) viewfinder.

It can happen in normal shooting (which is what your quote refers to) as this affects the meter that sits in the pentaprism. In live view, the meter reads off the sensor, so not a problem.

But if you fit a very dark ND filter, the light now coming in through the viewfinder is, relative to the light coming in through the lens, 1000x brighter - ten stops brighter - and that's what causes even a tiny chink around the mirror (actually it's usually the piggy-back AF mirror in the midddle) to create fogging and other light patterns on the sensor.
 

Bushy Park TP 3rd July 2010-28 by menthel, on Flickr

Here is one of my own. It happens. Some people just don't know what they are on about.

Yes, that's typical of not covering the viewfinder. Sometimes the effect is subtle and passes unnoticed, or folks think it's normal with this funny kind of filter.

Likewise, a very dark ND must be perfectly sealed at the front as any light creeping in there is disastrous.
 
Ok sorry then. i did not know about light leaks. wasnt there a recall on 5d3's because it had light leak? if it is just a normal apparant flaw on all DSLR's then what is the fuss about?

why was people up in arms when there was a light leak on the 5d3 or is this a completely different topic?
 
Ok sorry then. i did not know about light leaks. wasnt there a recall on 5d3's because it had light leak? if it is just a normal apparant flaw on all DSLR's then what is the fuss about?

why was people up in arms when there was a light leak on the 5d3 or is this a completely different topic?

I think that it is because there are a lot of blokes out there with too much time on their hands trying to find something to whinge about on the internet. Either that or they like taking photos of lens caps! ;)
 
Ok sorry then. i did not know about light leaks. wasnt there a recall on 5d3's because it had light leak? if it is just a normal apparant flaw on all DSLR's then what is the fuss about?

why was people up in arms when there was a light leak on the 5d3 or is this a completely different topic?

The light leak on the 5D III *could* affect metering. If you shot in the dark. And shined a bright light on the top LCD.

Essentially though it's the same issue as this. You make very little light come though the lens, this has the effect of making any leak much more obvious as it's now much bigger, relative to the main exposure.
 
This is exactly what I was getting when I was using my DIY welders glass filter. Now I know it's the viewfinder. Must use the cover more often.

That one was with welders glass too. I think it worked out to be a 14 stopper or there abouts!
 
Ok sorry then. i did not know about light leaks. wasnt there a recall on 5d3's because it had light leak? if it is just a normal apparant flaw on all DSLR's then what is the fuss about?

why was people up in arms when there was a light leak on the 5d3 or is this a completely different topic?

There is no fuss, just how it is. Apology accepted :)

The 5D3 thing was similar, but mainly the internal LCD illumination affecting the meter reading in very low light. It's been sorted at the factory now of course, and been retro fixed with a bit of black tape under the top plate.
 
Thought I'd post an image taken yesterday using this in colour rather then the black and white I've been using it for lately.



This was taken at 17mm, although it has been cropped slightly, the vignette is well controlled.
 
Thought I'd post an image taken yesterday using this in colour rather then the black and white I've been using it for lately.



This was taken at 17mm, although it has been cropped slightly, the vignette is well controlled.

Wow that's great!

I'm dying to have a play with one of these, but have to get a lens to put it on first :) Currently borrowing my hubby's 24-105mm. Really I'd like to try something a little wider.
 
sorry if i'm jumping in on the thread

cant decide on one of these or a Hoya pro 1 polorising filter!!!!!
would like to experiment with some cityscapes at night also fireworks and landscapes in general,...
cant justify spending hundreds on the very best stuff (i.e Lee) so can anyone give me a nod in the right direction regarding either of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330854888906?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


or:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-H...es_CameraLensesFilters_JN&hash=item2a28a88af2

just want to experiment without breaking the bank ...
 
polarising filter is a different beast to natural density filters.

I'd get polarising filter first as it makes photos in sunshine look so much better.
 
sorry if i'm jumping in on the thread

cant decide on one of these or a Hoya pro 1 polorising filter!!!!!
would like to experiment with some cityscapes at night also fireworks and landscapes in general,...
cant justify spending hundreds on the very best stuff (i.e Lee) so can anyone give me a nod in the right direction regarding either of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330854888906?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


or:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-H...es_CameraLensesFilters_JN&hash=item2a28a88af2

just want to experiment without breaking the bank ...

As wuyanxu said - it's a different beast.

I have a polarising filter, and do not yet have a 10 stop filter. The polariser will not stop nearly as much light and therefore you will not be able to get such long exposures. You do have to increase the exposure but not by nearly as much.

The polariser can really enhance blue skies. sometimes making them really quite dark and can make your colours more vivid. It can also help remove reflections from water if that is what you want. I've never tried it for anything at night.
 
i tired, but failed :( all SOOC

Would love some advice on how to improve...

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Thanks to this thread, I've just had one of these filters delivered! Hoping to try it out before I go to Sicily for a long weekend on Friday!
 
Is the older version still good or should I save for the pro ii version?
 
They're both good Vicky. The newer MkII version has multicoating which is nice and is slighly more neutral, but none of these extreme ND filters is properly neutral so need correcting anyway.
 
If anyone is selling a 72mm please let me know.
 
How much to ship to UK? Do they have a 72mm.
 
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I've looked and there are both types if you seach under sellars abroad, the pro ii type is similar price to UK. £34.62 plus shipping.
 
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