Nikon D7xxx owners thread

Just bought a D7000 as my first DSLR and am using the kit 18-105mm lens. This is a huge learning curve for me, but i'm enjoying playing around with it. I was wondering if anyone could recommend any books that refer directly to this camera?

Thanks

Chris
 
CameraShyChris said:
Just bought a D7000 as my first DSLR and am using the kit 18-105mm lens. This is a huge learning curve for me, but i'm enjoying playing around with it. I was wondering if anyone could recommend any books that refer directly to this camera?

Thanks

Chris
Click to expand...

Have heard good thing about Mastering the D7000 by Daryl Young (i think). Putting it on my list, am determined to crack this beast!
 
fidsey79 said:
Have heard good thing about Mastering the D7000 by Daryl Young (i think). Putting it on my list, am determined to crack this beast!
Click to expand...

Thanks fidsey! I saw that book online, one of many that i came across while searching. I'll take a look at it.
 
CameraShyChris said:
Just bought a D7000 as my first DSLR and am using the kit 18-105mm lens. This is a huge learning curve for me, but i'm enjoying playing around with it. I was wondering if anyone could recommend any books that refer directly to this camera?

Thanks

Chris
Click to expand...

To be honest I think the Nikon reference manual is very good. In combination with understanding exposure by Brian Peterson it should give you everything you wanted to know :)
 
I quite like the PDF versions of these manuals - easy to 'find' things using keywords - particularly finding things in the menu systems of these cameras.
 
Firmware


A 1.02
B 1.03
L 1.006

As altered by Nikon at recent service

Re books: I can recommend the David Busch book. The Thom Hogan book is massive. I am on p115 and we still talking batteries etc - so the jury is still out on that one.
 
MIKEROPHONICS said:
Firmware

A 1.02
B 1.03
L 1.006

As altered by Nikon at recent service

Re books: I can recommend the David Busch book. The Thom Hogan book is massive. I am on p115 and we still talking batteries etc - so the jury is still out on that one.
Click to expand...

So looks like this new upcoming firmware is just a lens profile update then.
 
MIKEROPHONICS said:
Firmware


A 1.02
B 1.03
L 1.006

As altered by Nikon at recent service

Re books: I can recommend the David Busch book. The Thom Hogan book is massive. I am on p115 and we still talking batteries etc - so the jury is still out on that one.
Click to expand...

Aha, slight difference. Mine is running:-

A 1.02
B 1.03
L 1.002
 
The A and B are the two parts of firmware that run the camera and the L is lens profiles
 
mikeysaling said:
Can anyone tell me what the A B & L mean ?
Click to expand...

Afaik, A relates to I/O processor part of the firmware, B is for the Expeed processor piece. The L refers to a database of lens distortion data, this is distributed separately as it applies to more than one camera model,
 
Annoyingly, just realised I've been out shooting in only JPG "normal" mode d'oh!

If you find yourself having to reset your camera, remember to turn thi sback to RAW if that's what you usually use! :(
 
Ditto. Two button shooting menu reset had dumped my 7k back to jpeg since having Nikon reset my focus.

Oops
 
About to order a knock off grip and have a question. Does anyone happen to know if the Link Delight grips are the same as the Meike ones? There's a tenner in it (LD is cheaper), I know it's not a big deal but if it's the same thing it's a tenner in my pocket not a knock off merchant!
 
Hey chris - don't think your website is working too well .

Sunday - OK now - must be my internet !! sorry
 
Last edited:
maninsuitcase said:
About to order a knock off grip and have a question. Does anyone happen to know if the Link Delight grips are the same as the Meike ones? There's a tenner in it (LD is cheaper), I know it's not a big deal but if it's the same thing it's a tenner in my pocket not a knock off merchant!
Click to expand...

All the grips are more or less the same ,, plus the little plastic battery lock, will fall off ,, still on £30
 
Further to above - i'll keep looking at your site - great pics like em a lot - also the meike grip that i have is very good value - had it nearly a year and all is well - i put aa's in it just as a backup. makes the cam feel nice and solid specially when doing portrait style pics
 
mikeysaling said:
Further to above - i'll keep looking at your site - great pics like em a lot - also the meike grip that i have is very good value - had it nearly a year and all is well - i put aa's in it just as a backup. makes the cam feel nice and solid specially when doing portrait style pics
Click to expand...

Thanks! Not much gone on this year, 1st there was rain then medical issues which are still getting in the way.

I went for the LD in the end. I guess they are probably all made in the same place just labelled up different.

I've never had a gripped camera, or even held one but the idea appeals. I figure if I can try it for £23 then I've not lost much if I dislike it, and certainly less than the loss of selling a genuine one on. Also means I can use AAs as a spare battery until I get a 2nd EL15.

If I like it I'm sure I'll get a legit one once I've got through the lens list or it falls apart. Which ever happens first.
 
maninsuitcase said:
Thanks! Not much gone on this year, 1st there was rain then medical issues which are still getting in the way.

I went for the LD in the end. I guess they are probably all made in the same place just labelled up different.

I've never had a gripped camera, or even held one but the idea appeals. I figure if I can try it for £23 then I've not lost much if I dislike it, and certainly less than the loss of selling a genuine one on. Also means I can use AAs as a spare battery until I get a 2nd EL15.

If I like it I'm sure I'll get a legit one once I've got through the lens list or it falls apart. Which ever happens first.
Click to expand...

Once you go gripped you never go back.
 
maninsuitcase said:
Thanks! Not much gone on this year, 1st there was rain then medical issues which are still getting in the way.

I went for the LD in the end. I guess they are probably all made in the same place just labelled up different.

I've never had a gripped camera, or even held one but the idea appeals. I figure if I can try it for £23 then I've not lost much if I dislike it, and certainly less than the loss of selling a genuine one on. Also means I can use AAs as a spare battery until I get a 2nd EL15.

If I like it I'm sure I'll get a legit one once I've got through the lens list or it falls apart. Which ever happens first.
Click to expand...

Iam selling a grip and a battery for the d7000, its in the for sale thread. ;)
 
I am selling my mint D7000 with MB-10 and 18-200 VRII to buy a Leica lens. Do you think I should sell separately or as a kit? I only want a grand for the lot but would I get more separately?
 
Yay... finally allowed in this thread! :)

Wondering if anyone could help me with a li'l issue. On the couple of occasions I've had chance to mess with my D7000, I experienced a lock-up, with the shutter button becoming inactive... on the same occasions I noticed it wouldn't switch off first time, but a second flick of the switch did the trick. Having awarded myself a long lunch today (boss absent), I think figured out that it was because the buffer was full (code r00), and it was still writing to the card. In terms of what I was doing, I don't think I was asking much of the camera, my D90 wouldn't have been bothered even when shooting motorsport, but obviously I appreciate the file sizes are much bigger with the D7000.

So how to speed up the process. I've just read that long exp NR makes a difference, so I'll make sure that's off, and I'd rather keep quality to the max, but apart from that is there anything I can do with my settings to help. I assume if I've done everything it's time to look at faster cards (I've always got on fine with C4s), if so any recommendations would be most gratefully received.
 
I would have guessed long exposure ND wouldn't have caused your buffer to be full ;) By definition that seems impossible...

You can see at the back of the camera when you are accessing/writing to the SD cards...A class 4 card is rather slow compared to the recommended class 10 cards ;) also if you shoot so much that your buffer is full, why do you immediately want to switch off the camera. It seems an odd technique to me, to hammer it and then bang switch the power off....Why?

Anyway most definitely get some faster cards...Sandisk Extreme Pro here, I've never even noticed a delay...
 
D7000 will definitely work better with class 10 cards and also the UHS1 cards
 
NickD said:
Yay... finally allowed in this thread! :)

Wondering if anyone could help me with a li'l issue. On the couple of occasions I've had chance to mess with my D7000, I experienced a lock-up, with the shutter button becoming inactive... on the same occasions I noticed it wouldn't switch off first time, but a second flick of the switch did the trick. Having awarded myself a long lunch today (boss absent), I think figured out that it was because the buffer was full (code r00), and it was still writing to the card. In terms of what I was doing, I don't think I was asking much of the camera, my D90 wouldn't have been bothered even when shooting motorsport, but obviously I appreciate the file sizes are much bigger with the D7000.

So how to speed up the process. I've just read that long exp NR makes a difference, so I'll make sure that's off, and I'd rather keep quality to the max, but apart from that is there anything I can do with my settings to help. I assume if I've done everything it's time to look at faster cards (I've always got on fine with C4s), if so any recommendations would be most gratefully received.
Click to expand...

dejongj said:
I would have guessed long exposure ND wouldn't have caused your buffer to be full ;) By definition that seems impossible...

You can see at the back of the camera when you are accessing/writing to the SD cards...A class 4 card is rather slow compared to the recommended class 10 cards ;) also if you shoot so much that your buffer is full, why do you immediately want to switch off the camera. It seems an odd technique to me, to hammer it and then bang switch the power off....Why?

Anyway most definitely get some faster cards...Sandisk Extreme Pro here, I've never even noticed a delay...
Click to expand...

LENR reserves part of the buffer for the dark frame regardless of shutter speed, so turning it off adds capacity. So does Auto Distortion control (and that slows buffer recovery).

But the biggest difference will be from getting rid of those Class 4 cards. They are far, far too slow if you're planning on using continuous shooting. Get one of the UHS-1 cards.
 
Thanks people, I guess it's time to splash out on some decent cards.

As unlikely as the LENR thing sounds, I had read about it in a number of places, thanks for clearing that up. As it happens, when I checked it was already off, so it looks like faster cards is my only option. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't hideous, just more of an obstruction than I'm used to with the D90. It's worth it though, the quality is lovely. :)
 
Is it just me or does anyone elses D7000 go flying up when the shutter has been pressed?!? I know it is a stupid question but I am really questioning whether the camera is too heavy for me. I really struggle to hold the camera still when shooting, especially for a long time. I have started to interlock my fingers around the bottom of the lens to try and add some stability. Am I doing anything obviously wrong or is there any addition stability clause in the camera? I especially notice when shooting with 55-200mm VR and Tamron 17-50mm. Thanks, Sarah
 
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