OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

[excalibur2]

...and have a camera with a hand grip that looks like a toast-rack!

Ergonomically it's one of the best handling cameras I have, your fingers wrap round and don't touch protruding things compared with some other cameras of course if you don't like buttons then it's a No No and newbies or people trying film probably want knobs and levers to twiddle...but then the way I look at it, the results come first whether I'm using any camera.

 

[Mr Badger]

Don't worry, I'm only teasing... it's just that early 1980s styling I'm not keen on, a bit like shoulder pads, fluffy angora sweaters and big hair! From an aesthetic styling point of view I'm glad I jumped from a Canon A1 to a T90 back in the day. Mind you, it's all down to personal taste in the end... and if it takes good photos then who cares anyway.

 

[excalibur2]

Don't worry, I'm only teasing... it's just that early 1980s styling I'm not keen on, a bit like shoulder pads, fluffy angora sweaters and big hair! From an aesthetic styling point of view I'm glad I jumped from a Canon A1 to a T90 back in the day. Mind you, it's all down to personal taste in the end... and of it takes good photos then who cares anyway.

...and I try to use all my 35mm cameras and they all take photos but I find with some cameras it's easier to take certain shots e.g. my shots on firework night well the T90 was excellent in that set on a tripod for about 7 secs, and with auto wind on, you could just sit in a chair along side with a cable and press the shutter at any time for best firework display, in fact if I saw another T90 body going for peanuts I would set up the two at different angles (maybe with different lenses) and fire them both. hmm maybe my new Chinon CP-7m can do it and could be the same as the T90 as I believe you can set it for 1/2000 to 90mins and no expensive cable for it to work just an ordinary shutter release one.
Edit: first test and the Chinon is not as good as the T90 in that you need a torch to press the self timer button again to restart, although it does remember what time you have set it at

 

[RaglanSurf]

Ah because people are brainwashed to get an Olympus OM10, Canon AE1, Yashica FR1 HUH etc when the T70 is far superior if you just want to take shots and not be a poser or one of the lads.

You're right Brian, the T70 is a great camera, it's superior to most of its contemporaries in almost every way but it's so f***in' ugly!

 

[StephenM]

All cameras have their strengths and weaknesses. Surely one of the great understated strengths of the T70 (and I'll admit that I've never handled one, or seen one in the flesh) is that it encourages stealth photography. Users are clearly skilled in the art of disappearing into the background, and photograph without anyone being aware of their presence. It must be so, since I've never seen a T70. And surely this must be because it encourages the photographer not to be seen with it?

On a less controversal note, I was forced to rush to the door at an unearthly hour this morning to accept a parcel. 8.00 am is pretty early for me to get up - it's practically before dawn... The parcel contained a Samyang 24mm TS lens, which will be a new toy to play with.

 

[stevelmx5]

I know I said I wasn't going to re-skin the Kiev4 but black is so common...





It's the same dark grey alcantara I used on my Fed-1 and it improves the handling so much over the original pleather. I found the original skin quite slippy but the alcantara gives it a much better grip.

 

[Manwithacam]

I don't have a T70, but I have a Pentax A3 and there is a certain similarity, if a lot less buttons.

 

[excalibur2]

Most cameras before the push button era are better looking as having no knobs etc makes the camera look out of proportion...the main body of the T70 is 68 mm wide, although if the Olympus OM2 just had buttons the main body would be 64mm wide. One of the widest cameras I have is the Chinon CE and the main body (also not counting knobs) is a whopping 74mm wide.

 

[excalibur2]

dit: first test and the Chinon is not as good as the T90 in that you need a torch to press the self timer button again to restart, although it does remember what time you have set it at

Anyone got a Pentax PZ-1 as I'm trying to make sense of this on the CP-7m:- The self-timer has the same time range as the bulb modes. This, by itself, is kind of silly — an hour and a half self-timer has pretty limited utility. But the trick is this — set the motor drive to continuous, add a locking cable release, and you have a rather flexible intervalometer. Interval shooting was the one reason I almost held onto my Pentax PZ-1, though using the feature on the PZ-1 was much more of an ordeal than on the CP-7m. The only real issue with interval shooting on the CP-7m is that since it’s based on a self-timer, there is no initial shot. That is, the first frame to fire fires after the determined interval. For most short intervals this won’t matter, and for most long intervals a shot can simply be fired before switching to interval mode. Still, this could be an issue. Continuous (and therefore interval) mode works with the multiple exposure feature as well, so interval shots can all be performed on a single frame if so desired.

 

[niko]

here it go's, time to "come out",
I fancy getting a t70 as well as a p30t at some point, nothing wrong with hitting all the braches on the ugly tree (well if its a camera)
I've owned about 5 or 6 t90s and love them, if it wasn't for the shutter going errrrr id have another in a heart beat. I got bored of repairing them. so easy to mod to leave the end of the film out on rewind as well

 

[excalibur2]

Well you can't go wrong with a T70 in that they are so cheap and if you don't like it, then throw it away..and say "been there done it" The only weak part (like the A series) is the plastic battery containing clip but you have to be clumsy to break it, I've bodged one of mine (no it wasn't me who broke it) and it's useable.
Wow 5 or 6 T90s did you try all the dodges to get the shutter working again? h'mm for modding the T90 to leave the film out looked complicated to me

 

[niko]

Well you can't go wrong with a T70 in that they are so cheap and if you don't like it, then throw it away..and say "been there done it" The only weak part (like the A series) is the plastic battery containing clip but you have to be clumsy to break it, I've bodged one of mine (no it wasn't me who broke it) and it's useable.
Wow 5 or 6 T90s did you try all the dodges to get the shutter working again? h'mm for modding the T90 to leave the film out looked complicated to me

ha yep i will get one a some point. what is the going rate for one in good working condition now?
i bought all of the t90's in non working states and fixed them, all were still working when I sold them on. The best thing for their shutter is regular use, but tbh my film use was never high enough to keep the shutter moving. its a quick solder job for the film leader just a bit of origami it put it back together without breaking the flexi boards

 

[Mr Badger]

Snip:

I found the original skin quite slippy but the alcantara gives it a much better grip.

You could have stuck some feathers on it.... and turned it into a Chicken Kiev! Sorry.

 

[stevelmx5]

Snip:
You could have stuck some feathers on it.... and turned it into a Chicken Kiev! Sorry.

That's an awful joke, but still funny ;0)

 

[excalibur2]

ha yep i will get one a some point. what is the going rate for one in good working condition now?

For a body you should get one under a tenner inc postage maybe less if you play the waiting game. This looks a good buy (maybe a gamble for the body) if you don't use flash http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/canon-t70-camera-with-bag-and-other-bits-/262930117017?hash=item3d37db3199:g:epkAAOSw03lY6l5a
But I wouldn't go into a bidding war as it only has the common 50mm and the zoom is h'mm well ok.

 

[Manwithacam]

Anyone got a Pentax PZ-1 as I'm trying to make sense of this on the CP-7m:- The self-timer has the same time range as the bulb modes. This, by itself, is kind of silly — an hour and a half self-timer has pretty limited utility. But the trick is this — set the motor drive to continuous, add a locking cable release, and you have a rather flexible intervalometer. Interval shooting was the one reason I almost held onto my Pentax PZ-1, though using the feature on the PZ-1 was much more of an ordeal than on the CP-7m. The only real issue with interval shooting on the CP-7m is that since it’s based on a self-timer, there is no initial shot. That is, the first frame to fire fires after the determined interval. For most short intervals this won’t matter, and for most long intervals a shot can simply be fired before switching to interval mode. Still, this could be an issue. Continuous (and therefore interval) mode works with the multiple exposure feature as well, so interval shots can all be performed on a single frame if so desired.

The EOS 10 has a built in intervalometer from 1s to 23h 59s if you could get hold of one to try.

 

[niko]

For a body you should get one under a tenner inc postage maybe less if you play the waiting game. This looks a good buy (maybe a gamble for the body) if you don't use flash http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/canon-t70-camera-with-bag-and-other-bits-/262930117017?hash=item3d37db3199:g:epkAAOSw03lY6l5a
But I wouldn't go into a bidding war as it only has the common 50mm and the zoom is h'mm well ok.

cheers mate, yep at the moment I've a good stock of 50mm lenses

 

[excalibur2]

The EOS 10 has a built in intervalometer from 1s to 23h 59s if you could get hold of one to try.

Thanks but I'm not sure how it works for the Chinon CP-7m (using up a film so can't play with it) it would be a clever feature if pressing the shutter cable and locking the mirror up and it fires continually every\at a selected time FOR either multiple exposures on one frame or it autowinds continually for each firing time until 36 frames at the end of the film h'mm so if the mirror is up all the time how does that work....h'mm then what happens at the end of the film, does it close down and auto winds back.....I'm going to have a bit of fun playing with it

 

[excalibur2]

Thanks but I'm not sure how it works for the Chinon CP-7m (using up a film so can't play with it) it would be a clever feature if pressing the shutter cable and locking the mirror up and it fires continually every\at a selected time FOR either multiple exposures on one frame or it autowinds continually for each firing time until 36 frames at the end of the film h'mm so if the mirror is up all the time how does that work....h'mm then what happens at the end of the film, does it close down and auto winds back.....I'm going to have a bit of fun playing with it

Well it looks like the Chinon has an interval timer, put the cable in and set the timer for 2 secs, press the cable and held it in and it fired continuosly h'mm but the timing was all over the place sometimes fast sometimes slow and also pointing at dark and light seem to effect it...so that's that.

 

[ChrisR]

So yesterday I received a Pentax-M 35-70 f/2.8-3.5 zoom from Ffordes. Delivery was attempted while we were out, and I was pleased to manage to snaffle the red failed delivery card unseen, and later to pick up the package (very well wrapped) from the delivery office and get it back into the house and opened, un-detected! Now it's just another lens... (Boy am I in trouble if this post is discovered!)

The extraordinary thing about this lens, which is a "One-touch" zoom, is that when in the "short" position it is 70mm, and then 35mm in the "long" position, at which point it is nearly as long as my Tokina 80-200 zoom extended! Yet to try it on an actual camera, not really sure what I feel about it...

 

[mdjchat]

The extraordinary thing about this lens, which is a "One-touch" zoom, is that when in the "short" position it is 70mm, and then 35mm in the "long" position, at which point it is nearly as long as my Tokina 80-200 zoom extended! Yet to try it on an actual camera, not really sure what I feel about it...

I have a Tamron adaptall 2 zoom, 35 - 70mm F3.5 constant aperture zoom which is the same. It is a 'twist' zoom rather than the 'push/ pull' type and seems counter intuitive. It doesn't see a great deal of use which is a shame as it is a decent enough lens.

 

[ChrisR]

I have a Tamron adaptall 2 zoom, 35 - 70mm F3.5 constant aperture zoom which is the same. It is a 'twist' zoom rather than the 'push/ pull' type and seems counter intuitive. It doesn't see a great deal of use which is a shame as it is a decent enough lens.

If that's the 17A it gets good ratings on PentaxForums... EDIT: quite a lot lighter than mine, too!

 

[mdjchat]

If that's the 17A it gets good ratings on PentaxForums... EDIT: quite a lot lighter than mine, too!

I had to Google that and yes it is the 17A. Mine has a stiff aperture ring and because of the placement next to the zoom ring I find it difficult to use at times. I suppose that if I used it more often it would loosen up and be easier to work with.

 

[compulsivehordr]

I have bought myself a Rolleiflex SL35M. These have a terrible reputation because they all break. The SL35M was based on the Zeiss Ikon SL706, which was based on the Icarex, but it was built in Rollei’s Singapore plant and modified by Rollei in a bit of a hurry, so was rubbish. I have already had two that were just doorstops but this one works, mostly. Apart from bestowing me with the kudos of owning the only working SL35M, I like it because it has a big clear viewfinder with a useful split prism and it is an enormous macho chunk of metal. Even the sluggish CdS meter works, but after two days and two batteries I realised it had a very expensive Wein cell habit so used a handheld meter. In use it was OK, very easy to focus and the speeds all sounded good, but the wind-on seemed a bit funny and sure enough the negs are reasonably well exposed but there is occasional fogging and the gaps between the frames got larger and larger through the roll so that I had to cut them into fives instead of sixes to get them in my scanner.

Easy to cut the negs though – no danger of accidentally chopping off a bit of the best shot of the roll. Maybe it was a bonus. So well done Rollei – you managed to build a camera that is bigger and heavier than a Zenit, but less reliable. But that hasn’t put me off – I have also bought it’s Voigtlander Twin, the VSL-1 (TM) M42 version of the same thing, also working including the meter, to try in my quest to find a half-decent M42 camera. (I will omit my usual rant about Zenits, Spotmatics, Prakticas etc because it always gets my posts deleted.)

 

[excalibur2]

I will omit my usual rant about Zenits, Spotmatics, Prakticas etc because it always gets my posts deleted.

H'mm I don't thinks the mods here would delete your posts complaining about cameras ? The last of the M42 cameras were fairly advanced e.g. Chinon CE series OR you could use the last of the Manual focus cameras (that can take an M42 adapter) before AF with advanced metering providing the M42 lens could be stopped down.

 

[Andysnap]

View attachment 100000
I have bought myself a Rolleiflex SL35M. These have a terrible reputation because they all break. The SL35M was based on the Zeiss Ikon SL706, which was based on the Icarex, but it was built in Rollei’s Singapore plant and modified by Rollei in a bit of a hurry, so was rubbish. I have already had two that were just doorstops but this one works, mostly. Apart from bestowing me with the kudos of owning the only working SL35M, I like it because it has a big clear viewfinder with a useful split prism and it is an enormous macho chunk of metal. Even the sluggish CdS meter works, but after two days and two batteries I realised it had a very expensive Wein cell habit so used a handheld meter. In use it was OK, very easy to focus and the speeds all sounded good, but the wind-on seemed a bit funny and sure enough the negs are reasonably well exposed but there is occasional fogging and the gaps between the frames got larger and larger through the roll so that I had to cut them into fives instead of sixes to get them in my scanner.
View attachment 100003
Easy to cut the negs though – no danger of accidentally chopping off a bit of the best shot of the roll. Maybe it was a bonus. So well done Rollei – you managed to build a camera that is bigger and heavier than a Zenit, but less reliable. But that hasn’t put me off – I have also bought it’s Voigtlander Twin, the VSL-1 (TM) M42 version of the same thing, also working including the meter, to try in my quest to find a half-decent M42 camera. (I will omit my usual rant about Zenits, Spotmatics, Prakticas etc because it always gets my posts deleted.)

As a bit of a Voigtlander fanboy I've always fancied a VSL, i think they are an excellent looking camera and I believe the lenses are excellent. That Rollei looks a bit tasty as well.

 

[compulsivehordr]

To be fair, I was quite drunk when I posted the last M42 rant so it's disappearance may have been prudent... And yes, I have an Chinon CEII Memotron on the way! Looking forward to screwing some weird old glass onto it.

 

[excalibur2]

To be fair, I was quite drunk when I posted the last M42 rant so it's disappearance may have been prudent... And yes, I have an Chinon CEII Memotron on the way! Looking forward to screwing some weird old glass onto it.

It's got one annoying feature in that you have to wind the film on before you can take an exposure reading , otherwise it's quite a good camera although I have the original CE metal one which makes it heavy.

 

[joxby]

I just want something called a Memotron

Sounds like it could fry your brain like something out of a 50's Flash Gordon flick...

 

[Andysnap]

Wow, just had a look at the Voigtlander VSLs and they have shot up in price over the last 12 months.

 

[compulsivehordr]

Mine was £25 for the body.

 

[Andysnap]

Mine was £25 for the body.

Bargain. I'll have to keep looking, I suspect that body only you canpick one up for a reasonable price but some of the lenses are pricey.

 

[VirtualAdept]

So at yesterdays boot sale I picked up an EOS 500n ( I liked it cos it were silvery) and a montanus delmonta TLR... sadly, the latters shutter is rather stuck, to itself apparently, but I've found a nice little tutorial on how to dismantle and clean it, so I plan to do that when I'm brave enough.

 

[FishyFish]

I got my first roll back from the Pentax P30t today. All seems to be working well. The only issue I had was when my thumb slipped off the advance lever mid-stroke and resulted in two partially overlapping frames on the negative. Other than that, I'm very happy with it. The camera is small and neat and easy to carry around, and the Rikenon 50mm f/2 I'm using with it appears to be very sharp. I'll post some pics in Show Us Yer Film Shots over the next few days.

 

[Manwithacam]

I came across a couple of Miranda Sensomat REs today for £8.99 each. I bought this one as it has it's ER case, the 50/1.8 lens and included the screw in button and manual.

The other camera had a cable release in the socket and an f2.8 50mm lens. Both cameras seem to be working well at all speeds. Though there is some haze in the lens.

The meter works on this one, though I have to compensate for the voltage difference. I am going to go back for the other one.

I'm not entirely sure why I didn't just buy them both, probably because of the weight. I was already carrying my EOS 300x and a spare lens.

 

[Manwithacam]

I've just thought, I have a Soligor TM too. That, the TMII, Miranda TM & TMII and Pallas TM & TMII were all based on this.

These ones are M42 mount and the main difference is that the TMII has a hot shoe.

 

[Manwithacam]

The Soligor TM and the Miranda Sensomat RE are shown below. As you can see one of the main changes is that the shutter release has been moved to the top. Otherwise the only change appears to be the mount.

The top button on the Miranda is an optional extra referred to as a sketch in the manual. The viewfinders are interchangeable as you might have guessed, so I can have a Miranda TM by switching them. That is the only difference between the Miranda, Soligor and Pallas that I'm aware of.

 

[35millimetre]

A friend sent me two tiny cameras! A Pentax 110 with an extra 70mm lens, and an Olympus Trip! So chuffed - the Trip's winder is quite stiff, I might drop some oil in it and see if that helps. The seals are gone too, new foam needed. Not bad for free though!

 

[joxby]

The Soligor TM and the Miranda Sensomat RE are shown below. As you can see one of the main changes is that the shutter release has been moved to the top. Otherwise the only change appears to be the mount.

The top button on the Miranda is an optional extra referred to as a sketch in the manual. The viewfinders are interchangeable as you might have guessed, so I can have a Miranda TM by switching them. That is the only difference between the Miranda, Soligor and Pallas that I'm aware of.

Just running that through the ole grey matter....well the shutter release bit anyway..

So the Miranda has a shutter release button on the front and a shutter release cable socket on the top, in to which you could screw an after market button instead of a cable.
The Soligor has a top button, I presume with an integral cable socket.

That after market button looks really useful if it does actually fit any standard cable socket, yet off the top of my head I can't think of a camera who's cable socket is not integral to the shutter release button...

 

[Manwithacam]

The button is referred to as a sketch in the accessories part of the manual. It is just a standard fitting.

I'm guessing Miranda decided to move the button to the top and, yes, integrate the cable release when they made the TM.

I have got a camera that has a cable release on the side of the lens mount, maybe a Minolta? I doubt the button would be much use there though.