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My 16x20 trays are greenhouse gravel trays, my cat is not that bigAre these the real thing, or have you just nicked the cat litter trays?
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OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!
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Asha
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I’ll have you know that to post this image took an immense effort , having to reach up to the top of my camera cupboard .Are these the real thing, or have you just nicked the cat litter trays?
That’s my physical exertion for today!
So still in their polythene bag:
Asha
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I had an email yesterday saying mine had been shipped. I shall endeavour to shoot a roll the first good day I get (as opposed to my usual trick of putting it in the freezer until it expires and then shooting it in 8 year's time).
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A Miranda MS-3. This is actually a Cosina CT-9 rebadged for Dixons. As I would expect from Cosina, it is both well designed and well made using modern (for the mid-80s) materials. All is working well as far as I can judge without a test film. It uses a Pentax K mount with three electrical contacts inside the top of the mount rather than Pentax standard contacts in the mount bezel.
Is that Topcor in an original PK mount, or has it been adapted?
magicaxeman
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I've decided to have a go at developing my own film again so got one of those Lab-box devices and some monolith developer. I also picked up one of the TTArtisan small hot shoe meters for my M2.
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It is an original PK mount.
I used to shoot a couple of Topcors (not the 55mm) on my Exaktas - didn't know they were made in any other mount. The 100 and 200mm lenses produced excellent image quality.
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I have a much, much smaller Paterson magnetic easel. It uses a couple of bevel edge magnetic strips to secure paper edges without showing up.
Like this ___/................\___. Where dots are paper.
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Ooops. I bought a Walker Titan XL 8x10. It's a joy to work with though, I like being able to focus with the front or the rear standards, it's very easy to zero out the movements by touch, and the rigid back is a plus for my work. I made a quick portrait when I got it and it was great, I was set up and done in about 5 minutes since I just wasn't worried at all about the camera somehow shifting away from the movements I set it to. It's just solid and dependable. I do wish I picked up the folding 5x4 years ago though, but that's another story. Need to shift some other cameras now!
Also I bought the necessary kit to process colour at home which I'm really excited about - don't have to wait a week anymore to get my negs back, and I'll be trying out some E6 along the way.
Also I bought the necessary kit to process colour at home which I'm really excited about - don't have to wait a week anymore to get my negs back, and I'll be trying out some E6 along the way.
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Asha
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Yes the Titans are solid outfits.
Like Stephen I have the 5x4 SF
Was your 10x8 sitting on a supermarket shelf waiting to be bought?
I’m lucky to find bread in mine let alone LF outfits
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Yeah they were having an Easter special. Amazing what you can find on the shelves these days!Yes the Titans are solid outfits.
Like Stephen I have the 5x4 SF
Was your 10x8 sitting on a supermarket shelf waiting to be bought?
I’m lucky to find bread in mine let alone LF outfits
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I might’ve mentioned it in another thread but added this to my collection to fill the 6 x 4.5 gap!
I know next to nothing about Bronicas but this seemed a steal. Any advice or tips welcomed!
I know next to nothing about Bronicas but this seemed a steal. Any advice or tips welcomed!
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One useful tip is, if you use the mirror lock-up, remember to disengage it BEFORE winding on to the next shot. Otherwise it stays locked up and you can’t see anything through the viewfinder.
Asha
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@Jakemico AE-1P iirc from when I had a bronny 645, there is no safety mechanism incorporated into the film back thus it is possible to remove the film back from the body regardless of wether or not it has its darkslide in place!!!!
Be aware if you change backs mid roll if for example you have b&w in one and colour film in another.
Be aware if you change backs mid roll if for example you have b&w in one and colour film in another.
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I’m sure mine locks the release button when the dark slide is in place. It could be a feature that was added later though - mine is an ETRSi model.
Asha
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Hmm perhaps .
Mine was the ETRS
I recall vividly that the Mamiya RZ67 had a feature that endured the back was locked to the body with the darkslide removed .
I’m pretty confident that the ETRS didn’t have that same security…… Of course I could be mistaken.
StephenM
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I just checked my ETRS. With the darkslide in, I had no difficulty taking the back off. With it out, the release was locked solid. I don't know if the back used has any effect as I only tried with one. I assume backs evolved, although as the lock is on the body the back shouldn't affect it.
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With the older filmbacks the shutter can be released with the slide in and the back can be released with the slide out, the early E120 and the later E120i film backs can be distinguished by the light grey plastic on the darkslide, the older ones are dark grey/black.
The later E120i filmback can't be removed until the darkslide is fitted, plus the shutter can not be released with the darkslide in place.
The later E120i filmback can't be removed until the darkslide is fitted, plus the shutter can not be released with the darkslide in place.
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So, judging by the black slides in both the 120 and 35mm backs, I need to remember to replace the slide when swapping.
That’s good to know! Thanks for the heads up as this is certainly something I’d forget. I left the cap on my GW690III far too many times to admit. I was eyeing up another 120 back on eBay too as I constantly wish I could switch films. Will use your knowledge to my advantage! Thanks all!
Peter B
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There's also a separate thread for Bronica owners which has a load of info and chat on it. Currently 17 pages, so maybe get a cuppa and settle down for a read.
Bronica Medium Format Owners Thread
At the moment, there is a thread for Mamiya Medium Format Camera owners, but nothing for those of us who use or are interested in Bronicas. I was hoping to start a thread to discuss, ask questions regarding, or share photographs taken with Zenza Bronica cameras. I currently own both an SQ-A and...
www.talkphotography.co.uk
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Well, new to me. Picked this up on Monday Car Boot for the grand sum of £2. Hope I still work as well as first made when I'm 70 and a bit.
The USA models with black meter faces date back to the 30s but this UK model started. production in 1951. Is still spot on but you do have to convert ISO to Weston film speeds (divide by 1.25)
The USA models with black meter faces date back to the 30s but this UK model started. production in 1951. Is still spot on but you do have to convert ISO to Weston film speeds (divide by 1.25)
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It will do incident with an Invercone bu did not come with one. It needs one smaller than the later II, III, IV, V and Euro models used. I'm sure there is one somewhere in a box in this packrat's hoard.
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I've got a non-functioning one of this Weston model with both the invercone and another attachment which you use in bright light conditions with the invercone it seems. You are welcome to have the invercone, attachments and instructions (boxed!) PM me your address and I'll pop it in the post, I won't include the defunct meter as it weighs the same as a housebrick, unless you really want it. Do you want the case as well, it's a bit rough.
By the way, the invercone instructions say it is suitable for the Master II, so maybe the size of the cone didn't increase until the Master III came out.
Asha
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Asha
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A few goodies acquired today.
75mm Nikon EL enlarging lens.
An unopened pack of ten sheets ilford warmtone 16x20 paper
Some additional magnets to hold these large sheets down flat on my magnetic board/ easel
and a sheet of red mat board.
Why red?
Well by my thinking ( which we all know is a bit erm wired lol), if there should be any stray light bouncing around when doing test strips, burning, dodging etc then if it reflected back to the paper off a red red surface then that replicates light from the safelight and surrounding walls.
It’s not that black card has posed me any noticeable problems but I thought why not make d&b tools out of red card and match the darkroom decor
More excitement expected tomorrow too with two other parcels of ‘toys’ due to be delivered by dhl
75mm Nikon EL enlarging lens.
An unopened pack of ten sheets ilford warmtone 16x20 paper
Some additional magnets to hold these large sheets down flat on my magnetic board/ easel
and a sheet of red mat board.
Why red?
Well by my thinking ( which we all know is a bit erm wired lol), if there should be any stray light bouncing around when doing test strips, burning, dodging etc then if it reflected back to the paper off a red red surface then that replicates light from the safelight and surrounding walls.
It’s not that black card has posed me any noticeable problems but I thought why not make d&b tools out of red card and match the darkroom decor
More excitement expected tomorrow too with two other parcels of ‘toys’ due to be delivered by dhl
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Asha
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Also some FP4 film ( not shown as it’s in the fridge)
I have made an error though as I purchased matt paper instead of gloss.
Had it been a smaller format I would keep it no prob but this box cost me almost 300€ so I’m having a serious think over wether to request an exchange if it’s possible.
I have some ilford matt paper that I’ve never used and have already made a print
with it to assess against its glossy predecessor.
I’ll have to decide tomorrow morning what to do once I compare the two prints side by side in daylight after dry down .
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Using the matt paper you can do some hand tinting. By gum though, that is a considerable investment.
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Not a fan of matt, I can use pearl for experimentation but really, gloss is the man.
I have some warmtone gloss, I intended to use it with warmtone dev, but I think I've fallen off that horse, I don't imagine there'll be an enormous difference using ordinary dev.
Are you getting some WT dev for that paper @Asha
I have some warmtone gloss, I intended to use it with warmtone dev, but I think I've fallen off that horse, I don't imagine there'll be an enormous difference using ordinary dev.
Are you getting some WT dev for that paper @Asha
Asha
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Atm I have but ilford MG Dev .
Excuse my ignorance but having never used WT paper, is it preferable to obtain and use WT Dev?
From what I’ve read the differences from using a WT Dev are very subtle.
I get the impression that you are going to say yes
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Well, no, I've done a few 10x8 rc warmtone in straight chems, but I'm just messing with 10x8, I really want 12x16.
So the WT paper I was going to do in WT dev is actually 12x16 FB
The WT 10x8 rc was not striking warmer than ordinary paper tbh, but I like it anyway, I was just wondering if using WT dev with WT paper produces a tone that I'd find a step too far, I dunno.
It is something I need to bottom before I waste 5 sheets of 12x16 FB WT finding out, this is the horse I fell off, I may just stay fallen off and stick with what I know I like..
So the WT paper I was going to do in WT dev is actually 12x16 FB
The WT 10x8 rc was not striking warmer than ordinary paper tbh, but I like it anyway, I was just wondering if using WT dev with WT paper produces a tone that I'd find a step too far, I dunno.
It is something I need to bottom before I waste 5 sheets of 12x16 FB WT finding out, this is the horse I fell off, I may just stay fallen off and stick with what I know I like..