OFFICIAL I HAVE A NEW (FILM RELATED) TOY THREAD!!

Why assume?
Use it for and see for yourself if there are issues that arise which are without doubt the cause of these marks on the rear element.
I have a LF lens with a very distinct scratch smack in the middle of the of the rear element ..... that same lens gives me some of the best results that I obtain from all of my kit!

Assumption is an imaginary belief..... The verity comes from actual reality [emoji6]

Alternatively flog it for a daft price and wonder if perhaps it offered good images after all.
Very true, I have a 90mm Super Angulon from Ffordes which, by the way, was clearly advertised with scratches to the rear element and it performs fine. It must have been put down on the rear element, which is flattish, and scratched because of that. The scratches don't have any subjective effect on the results.
 
A few small items over the last week.

Kodak Specialist 2 half plate camera with 203mm Aero Ektar lens and 5 plate holders.
2 AP reels.
1 2l measuring cylinder.
2 new inserts for Stearman 5x4 developing tank.
Artifex 10x8 developing tank with film holders and blanks to allow up to 6 sheets at once, or just 1 or 2 with minimum chemicals.
New blackout material and light sealing tape which may be an improvement on my current polythene blackout.

Not counting the mentioned in another thread Chromagraphica plate holders in 5x4, 5x7 and 10x8 and a 480mm Apo Ronar lens.

Remember the government rubric: Stay home/Save money on line/Protect DPDs profits. You know it makes sense.
 
I think the "Aero" part means it's made of chocolate... :exit:
 
Picked up a Minolta Hi-Matic 7s. The shutter was stuck but a bit of lighter fluid seemed to do the job. Not sure how long that’ll last but was pretty easy to do. One thing I’ve noticed is the rangefinder focusing overlay/patch bit seems to not line up vertically with the viewfinder. I’m hoping that if it’s inline then it’s in focus but otherwise could be a pain. Is this something I could fix? or is it very delicate/exact alignment, and me messing is more likely to bugger it further. Guess I’ll see how it goes with the first roll.

3251DFB0-73A5-42BF-BF43-02983145347C.jpegCDC6B221-D3DA-40E4-A68B-BF8091338768.jpeg3B736A52-1A7B-4FAE-A887-01C6BDF8AE67.jpeg
 
Picked up a Minolta Hi-Matic 7s. The shutter was stuck but a bit of lighter fluid seemed to do the job. Not sure how long that’ll last but was pretty easy to do. One thing I’ve noticed is the rangefinder focusing overlay/patch bit seems to not line up vertically with the viewfinder. I’m hoping that if it’s inline then it’s in focus but otherwise could be a pain. Is this something I could fix? or is it very delicate/exact alignment, and me messing is more likely to bugger it further. Guess I’ll see how it goes with the first roll.

View attachment 290905View attachment 290903View attachment 290904

If the patch aligns horizontally you will be fine. If focus is out when the rangefinder says it is in focus, it is easy to adjust horizontally. There is a screw in the middle of the chrome top at the back - removing this should allow you to access an internal screw which adjusts the rangefinder horizontally. Only infinity is adjustable but that is all you should ever need.
 
Last edited:
If the patch aligns horizontally you will be fine. If focus is out when the rangefinder says it is in focus, it is easy to adjust horizontally. There is a screw in the middle of the chrome top at the back - removing this should allow you to access an internal screw which adjusts the rangefinder horizontally. Only infinity is adjustable but that is all you should ever need.
Thanks for explaining, it’s good it can be tuned. I’ll wait and see!
 
I got a new developing tank today for miniature film (5x4). But as I seem to be acquiring them regularly, I'm almost hesitant to mention it. 2 sheets in 300mm, 6 sheets require 600mm. Seems to be easy loading, fast fill and drain.

It will be interesting to see how it compares with the other 6 (all different) tanks (two of which have 2 different inserts each, so I think that makes about 9 different methods).
 
I picked up this Nikon F body today. The guy in the shop had reduced it to £70. I'd looked at it before and it has a mirror issue. I offered to swap him for my watch and he accepted. I got the watch for £2 from a charity shop.

The issue with the mirror is that often, when it's wound on, it will stay up. The speeds all sound good.

Apparently it's a red dot F with the serial 6599252, which makes it the same age as me as I date back to August 65 too [emoji2].

The watch was a Stauer Graves '33 in stainless steel that are £149.99 new on their site. I mostly wear a Fitbit now and was only wearing it because the battery had run out.IMG_20200905_152121.jpg
 
Last edited:
I picked up this Nikon F body today. The guy in the shop had reduced it to £70. I'd looked at it before and it has a mirror issue. I offered to swap him for my watch and he accepted. I got the watch for £2 from a charity shop.

The issue with the mirror is that often, when it's wound on, it will stay up. The speeds all sound good.

Apparently it's a red dot F with the serial 6599252, which makes it the same age as me as I date back to August 65 too [emoji2].

The watch was a Stauer Graves '33 in stainless steel that are £149.99 new on their site. I mostly wear a Fitbit now and was only wearing it because the battery had run out.View attachment 291747
I ran a second film through this this morning, a roll of Kentmere Pan 400, and there was no problem with the mirror. On a third test roll, a Geek Squad 10 exposure film, It happened once.

It now has a roll of bulk rolled HP5 in and so far so good up to frame 12. Maybe it just doesn't like colour film as the first roll I tested it with was a roll of EuroPrint 200, which expired in May 2005.
 
I ran a second film through this this morning, a roll of Kentmere Pan 400, and there was no problem with the mirror. On a third test roll, a Geek Squad 10 exposure film, It happened once.

It now has a roll of bulk rolled HP5 in and so far so good up to frame 12. Maybe it just doesn't like colour film as the first roll I tested it with was a roll of EuroPrint 200, which expired in May 2005.
If it was mine, I would have spent an hour or so continually dry-firing the shutter before trying with film. Cures most shutter related problems with old cameras.
 
I had a Bronica once with a sticky mirror.
I didn't have to do anything with it for the mirror to return other than wait.
Turned out the foam was gooey and held the mirror up till the spring pulled it off the goo.
I would imagine the light proofing material is felt though in the Nikon, but I dunno.
 
I had a Bronica once with a sticky mirror.
I didn't have to do anything with it for the mirror to return other than wait.
Turned out the foam was gooey and held the mirror up till the spring pulled it off the goo.
I would imagine the light proofing material is felt though in the Nikon, but I dunno.

Nikon slr mirror buffers go gooey too .....
 
If it was mine, I would have spent an hour or so continually dry-firing the shutter before trying with film. Cures most shutter related problems with old cameras.
I loaded the first film as I was in Whitby and wanted to take some photographs. I was expecting some problems and the EuroPrint film only cost me £1 a roll. I did a lot of dry firing between that and the second roll. The mirror was still going up when I wound on before I loaded the Kentmere Pan, I was surprised it went through the whole roll without happening. I made sure I focussed and framed each shot before winding on just in case. I'm still doing that now. [emoji1]
 
Picked up this Yashica Lynx-1000. The film advance doesn’t seem to work though. The sprockets turn each other but the lever doesn’t turn them. Still trying to see what might be the problem.

DB827687-4B2D-4EE5-89A3-438BE203A0BF.jpeg
 
Picked up this Yashica Lynx-1000. The film advance doesn’t seem to work though. The sprockets turn each other but the lever doesn’t turn them. Still trying to see what might be the problem.

View attachment 291928

Gearing issue by the sounds of it..... perhaps a repair is possible although the cost may outweigh the value of the camera.
 
Gearing issue by the sounds of it..... perhaps a repair is possible although the cost may outweigh the value of the camera.
Yeah that worries me. Testing a few repair places to see what they say. I like the camera though and everything else appears in decent condition.
 
Yeah that worries me. Testing a few repair places to see what they say. I like the camera though and everything else appears in decent condition.

Miles Whitehead is probably one of the best to offer you realistic advice. He has actually suggested not doing certain work for me based on repair costs versus camera value.
Of course a lot depends on how much one values the camera sentimentality .
 
Yeah that worries me. Testing a few repair places to see what they say. I like the camera though and everything else appears in decent condition.

I’d also bare in mind the repair cost when complete cameras are available for likely sub-£20;


There’s also this one, although it’s untested so could have issues itself;


 
Miles Whitehead is probably one of the best to offer you realistic advice. He has actually suggested not doing certain work for me based on repair costs versus camera value.
Of course a lot depends on how much one values the camera sentimentality .
This one has no sentimental value, was a cheap gamble!
I’d also bare in mind the repair cost when complete cameras are available for likely sub-£20;


There’s also this one, although it’s untested so could have issues itself;


Thanks for those listings, at those prices it's not worth paying to have it repaired. I might take it apart more myself and see if I can do anything. Or it'll go on ebay for someone else to fix.
 
Success! Managed to fix it myself. Just needed a good clean and reseating the little metal pill that's part of the clutch. It was stuck up and wouldn't move freely. Some lighter fluid and cotton buds and it's now turning properly! Done about 100 advances to test and it seems to be working.
2020-09-12 19.33.57.jpg
 
So mines not so much a new toy but a thing I made to help with space. Having such a small room to work in, I had my enlarger, dev tray and stop tray on the same table, practically touching, with my fix on top of some drawers across the room, so I made this...
 

Attachments

  • WhatsApp Image 2020-09-14 at 17.17.39.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2020-09-14 at 17.17.39.jpeg
    112.8 KB · Views: 33
  • WhatsApp Image 2020-09-17 at 20.36.20.jpeg
    WhatsApp Image 2020-09-17 at 20.36.20.jpeg
    73 KB · Views: 33
So mines not so much a new toy but a thing I made to help with space. Having such a small room to work in, I had my enlarger, dev tray and stop tray on the same table, practically touching, with my fix on top of some drawers across the room, so I made this...

Sounds like you might benefit from a NOVA .
Expensive new but second hand they occasionally come up at a reasonable price
I got one last year iirc after having them suggested to me ..... defo make life easier re temps, space and setting up.
 
Well I bet only the LF guys know what it is used for..erm let me guess:- some sort of lens plate\holder to fit your LF camera ?
 
Last edited:
Some spelling checkers call it a Handoff, others a Gandalf. Either way, it's 7x5 and it's new to me. The last photo shows a black Intrepid 5x4 for scale.

DSC02979.jpgDSC02980.jpgDSC02981.jpg
 
Last edited:
Well I bet only the LF guys know what it is used for..erm let me guess:- some sort of lens plate\holder to fit your LF camera ?
 
A nice, if a bit battered, Nikon Nikkormat EL. All is fully functioning. All I need is a comparable lens - one with rabbit ears - which is on order from Japan.JPEG_20201001_195634_8617719680120059400.jpgJPEG_20201001_195716_8854723327793435182.jpg
 
Back
Top