Official Talk Leica thread

Merry Christmas (SONY A7R2 - Leitz Macro-Elmarit 2,8/60 serial# 2830723 f 2,8) !!!


DSC00102-a7r22-L60r-c-tp.jpg



(I tried to use this Macro on the M9. Maybe the noname adaptor is not accurate. Of course, focussing without liveview by guessing and even metering did not work.

There are a few Leitz R MF tele lenses in my portfolio I used for taking pictures of garden animals. Meanwhile I have two AF tele lenses on my dining-room table
(70 - 200 and 150-600) for this.

The Macro-Elmarit is still a good, versatile lens, even compared to my 50mm and 100mm ZEISS ZF.2 macros. There is a review ot the Elmarit in DearSusan.

I try not to use the Leitz Macro-Elmarit as a compelling reason to buy an M with liveview for me ... --- )
 
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Hi, SLs, as far as one can see ... (SONY A7R2 - Leitz Macro-Elmarit 2,8/60 f 2,8) :


DSC00089-a7r22-L60r-28-tp.jpg


(I find the rendering quite impressive; little DOF and of the lights. I shall try M mount lenses with the shorter-distance Voigtländer adaptor on the A7R2 to find out,
how the rendering of lights changes when getting closer to the subject.)
 
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Hi, a little more on the effects of moving closer to the subject on bokeh ... (SONY A7R2 - Voigtländer Nokton Classic 1,4/40 - Voigtländer VM-E Close Focus Adapter)

f 1,4; distance 70cm, crop:

DSC00178-a7r22-v40-14-tp_bearbeitet-1.jpg



f 2,8; distance 70cm, crop:

DSC00179-a7r22-v40-28-c-tp.jpg
 
Hi, bokeh-play cont. ... (SONY A7R2 - Voigtländer Nokton Classic 1,4/40 - Voigtländer VM-E Close Focus Adapter)

f 1,4; distance 35cm :

DSC00180-a7r22-14-tp.jpg



f 2,8; distance 35cm:

DSC00181-a7r22-28-tp.jpg



I found the effect of moving closer to the subject on the bokeh rendering quite interesting. To experience this, one can attach M mount lenses to a SONY with the Voigtländer adapter.

For direct Leica M attachment, one could use the ERNST LEITZ WETZLAR OUFRO adapter, I also have. But I never used it, because moving closer also leads to much thinner DOF,
which requires liveview (or the patience of a saint, I do not have ... ) .
 
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Hi, I have never seen it tried before ... (Leica M9 - ZEISS Distagon 1,4/35 - ERNST LEITZ WETZLAR OUFRO adapter, distance 20cm) :


f 1,4 :

L1020999_DxO-z35d-14-ufoo-tp.jpg



f 2,8 :

L1021000_DxO-z35d-28-ufoo-tp.jpg



f 5,6 :

L1021001_DxO-z35d-56-ufoo-tp.jpg
 
Hi, Leica M9 - ZEISS Distagon 1,4/35 - ERNST LEITZ WETZLAR OUFRO adapter, distance 20cm :


f 8 :


L1021002_DxO-z35d-8-ufoo-tp.jpg



As said above, without liveview this combination is for rainy days, or public holidays ... ---
 
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Adzman808 said:
That's a great family to have!
Click to expand...

Thanks, I think so too. There was a time when I had 6 X-Pro1s and an X20 (and followed your X-Pro1 blog avidly) but time moves on and I realised that no matter how good the Fuji was/is it wasn't/isn't a rangefinder so I bit the bullet and turner to the Leica M9s. I still have 2 of my X-Pro1s but never use them and they're a bit too used to sell. I've X-T2 now with 16-55 for bad weather/light situations.
 
Topsy said:
Thanks, I think so too. There was a time when I had 6 X-Pro1s and an X20 (and followed your X-Pro1 blog avidly) but time moves on and I realised that no matter how good the Fuji was/is it wasn't/isn't a rangefinder so I bit the bullet and turner to the Leica M9s. I still have 2 of my X-Pro1s but never use them and they're a bit too used to sell. I've X-T2 now with 16-55 for bad weather/light situations.
Click to expand...

I can relate to all of that (except the sheer number of duplicate cameras you have)

I didn’t really know what an M9 was until the XP1 landed and reviewers kept comparing the fuji to it!

When I got the XP2 I really missed the je ne sais quoi that I perceived the XP1 having in its images that the ‘2 lacked (bit like many 240 owners after the M9 !!)

After a while I realised that the M9 basically had the look I loved.

About 2 years after that I actually managed to own one!

I lent the XP2 (and all my XF glass) to a buddy about 4 months ago and I’ve not missed it once, well once... 7 year old daughter, ballet recital, indoor and diml lit = mid 4 figure iso and low 3 figure shutter speeds or forget about it. Not m9 territory!

It’s been over 2 years with the m9 now.. the m10 GAS is starting to kick in... the colours aren’t so far off the m9 and I’d love a wider shooting envelope... and I’m a big enough man to admit that live view would be nice every now and then... shame I can’t get excited by the 240 (no offence intended to those that shoot one) - get lucky on ebay and they’re going for what the dura coated X-Pro3 costs new..

Fuji have (IMO) lost their way with the X-Pro3, not the screen... but the OVF... no infinity focus box, no dual magnification... just a fixed 0.5xsomething - so the 23 (35) framelines will be too big and the 35 (50) too small... bra-clucking-vo fuji... #slowclap

There’s only one true digital rangefinder currently in production, and the m9 might not be it - but it’s close enough, the base iso files are glorious (I joke its a SOOC raw camera, if you make a decent exposure of an evenly lit scene those DNGs need nothing in LR), and the personal reward I feel when I manage to nail it all together to get a shot I like is a special feeling.

Back when various official Fujifilm accounts followed me on IG, they actually liked many more of my M9 shots than they did the X-Pro ones (did you bother to read the tags guys?!!!) - which says a lot no?

And yes the Fuji blog... I’ve nothing left to say about the X-Pro range... I’ll keep the XP1. I should sell the XP2 and the glass (maybe it’ll fetch 240 money... I should probably resist that... I’ll just end up flipping it and the m9 for the m10 which is dumb... if I wait long enough the m10 will get cheap enough that I can have it without parting with my 9p)

I should probably start to write about the m9 really. Although Overgaard et el have somewhat covered that off already..

Have a great new year, here’s to us - the half dozen or so TP members keeping the Leica thread alive!
 
Quite a few of us seem to have come to Leica via Fuji cameras. Obviously the X-Pro/X100 range is the gateway drug with its OVF to Leica.

I still have my old X-Pro1 which I use with a cheap little 7artisans 35mm lens. Great little combo but its always the Leicas I reach for.

Happy New Year to us merry band, here’s to a fantastic 2020.
 
Adzman808 said:
I can relate to all of that (except the sheer number of duplicate cameras you have)
Click to expand...

Ah the duplicates, I have, since my early film days, run 3 cameras side by side. In the old days it was one for B&W, one for colour print and the third for slide (I have 3 backs for my Bronica as well), these days its to have 3 lens options (wide/standard/short tele) without having to change lenses and expose the sensor (I know the M9 sensor is hidden behind the shutter blinds). The extra 3 X-Pro1s I bought as spares when the 2 came out and I didn't like it (they were still new in boxes when I re-sold them at a slight loss), they helped fund my second M9 actually.

Have a good evening and here's wishing all a happy and prosperous New Year.
 
Leica typ 240 mp + 7artisans 50mm f1.1


Tried some night photography on a boat tour, hand held. Not sure it worked out well .. the photos looked better on the camera, shaky even at 1/60 iso 2000.

I think I am struggling to get the exposure / control over exposure right. I tried some firework shots for new years night, not happy at all, but has been a long time since I shot fireworks. Again hand held... but I dont remember it being so difficult to nab a shot. Exposures seem to be random, faster the shot/burst helped, but then no trails... Exposure long, really really white (I will post up once I have processed the better ones later on).

Is there a knack to exposure on the 240 ?
Can it be set/locked...? I haven't looked into it...
 
Hi, @ecniv: You have been very active. :)

- glass: must have been difficult with a tele.

-boat trip: difficult conditions, handheld. Might need a little more light in the shadows by PP.

-fireworks: I found these also difficult. I used an M9 and a SONY NEX-5N, both at manually set 1 sec, supported by the window-frame:

M9 - ZEISS Distagon 4/18 f 4; iso 1250, (crop) :

L1021206_DxO-z18-4-c-tp.jpg



SONY NEX-5N - ZEISS Biogon 4,5/21, iso 1600; f 4,5 crop:

DSC01986-nex5-z21-c-tp.jpg



I thought to have read somewhere that 1 sec. is the right exposure time. --- Next year, I shall google a little before taking pics (or ask my wife, what she used for her (better) pics ... )
 
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Hi, (Leica M9 - Leitz Macro-Elmarit 2,8/60 serial# 2830723) :


-f 2,8:

L1021144_DxO-L60r-28-tp.jpg



f 5,6 :

L1021145_DxO-L60r-56-tp.jpg



f 8 :

L1021146_DxO-L60r-8-tp.jpg


P.S.: I have not mentioned the latest macro solution for Leica Ms, the Macro-Elmar-M-4/90 :

https://de.leica-camera.com/Fotografie/Leica-M/M-Objektive/Macro-Elmar-M-1-4-90-mm2

Maybe, a few in this thread have it ... It is € 3200, and the Macro adaptor is another € 600. (Used the prices are around € 2000 and € 200 (on eBay).)

The only examples for macro use I found on the Leica website. On the web, users only show its deployment as a tele lens.

Looked at financially, the Makro-Elmarit-R 2,8/60 is not too bad for an M with liveview (used around € 500). Of course, lens + body are heavy.

But so is your purse after the purchase still, in contrast to the Macro-Elmar-M 4/90 and its adaptor....

If one does not have an M with liveview, one could try to be more patient, or another approach would be to use a Makro-Elmarit-R 2,8/60 with a SONY A7R2 (new € 1200).

So. lots of options ...
 
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Had a wander round the Sunday Scramble at Bicester Heritage yesterday.

Still on a learning curve with Leica, the metering makes things a bit tricky at times and it’s definitely a slower process than shooting with the old D750 I had, but it’s such fun to shoot!

Leica M10-P & Voigtlander 50mm f1.2

0437B125-7B95-4E8D-9214-54793D335126.jpeg
 
lovely colours Dave,

i guess with the m10 you can flick to matrix metering if needed.

Your picture looks like one of those moments where it takes every fibre of your being not to say

”excuse me, EXCUSE ME, yes you, yes all you people standing round the blue car, don’t take this personal but could you all please just fk off out of my photograph? Thanks very much”

wibbly said:
Had a wander round the Sunday Scramble at Bicester Heritage yesterday.

Still on a learning curve with Leica, the metering makes things a bit tricky at times and it’s definitely a slower process than shooting with the old D750 I had, but it’s such fun to shoot!

Leica M10-P & Voigtlander 50mm f1.2

View attachment 265026
Click to expand...
 
Adzman808 said:
lovely colours Dave,

i guess with the m10 you can flick to matrix metering if needed.

Your picture looks like one of those moments where it takes every fibre of your being not to say

”excuse me, EXCUSE ME, yes you, yes all you people standing round the blue car, don’t take this personal but could you all please just fk off out of my photograph? Thanks very much”
Click to expand...

Thanks Adam, colour really is my angst, I'm really not sure how to edit in colour and always end up with a real mish-mash of all sorts of presets which I've bought over the years. I stuck really neutral with this, Leica M10 profile and a tweak of contrast and tone curve. Think I'm going to stick with that for a while and see how I go with it!

Matrix metering, as far as I'm aware on the M10 series only works with the EVF and I've yet to use the EVF to take a photo with! Just can't see me using it that much in truth - maybe I should look at the Visoflex for it, which would give me that option.... but it is over £400 quid :rolleyes:

As for the people, yeah for sure sometimes it would be great to get these cars on 'their own' but I quite like the busy look to it - kind of makes the car look ultra serene in the middle of it all :ROFLMAO:

Just a shame, uploading them here really screws up the resolution!
 
wibbly said:
Thanks Adam, colour really is my angst, I'm really not sure how to edit in colour and always end up with a real mish-mash of all sorts of presets which I've bought over the years. I stuck really neutral with this, Leica M10 profile and a tweak of contrast and tone curve. Think I'm going to stick with that for a while and see how I go with it!

Matrix metering, as far as I'm aware on the M10 series only works with the EVF and I've yet to use the EVF to take a photo with! Just can't see me using it that much in truth - maybe I should look at the Visoflex for it, which would give me that option.... but it is over £400 quid :rolleyes:

As for the people, yeah for sure sometimes it would be great to get these cars on 'their own' but I quite like the busy look to it - kind of makes the car look ultra serene in the middle of it all :ROFLMAO:

Just a shame, uploading them here really screws up the resolution!
Click to expand...

I’ve not used an M10, but if it’s anything like the m240 live view on the rear screen should offer matrix metering. You don’t have to shoot then, just set the exposure then go back to the OVF and focus as normal

colour’s a funny bugger and a specialist subject in its own right, even the preserve of the lofty internet critic “I’m viewing your photo on a high end screen that’s been colour calibrated to a pro-colour space” is fairly meaningless unless the viewer also has one :) a lot of digital editing comes down to white balance, but white isn’t always white (how many white paints do delux offer?) and grey often has blue in it, so the age old instruction use the WB eye dropper on a grey or white part of the image isn’t completely fail safe

I feel that away from critical applications (paying customers, print work) that if I like the colour then that’s good enough for me!

I have a stack of presets that I’ve sponged up over the years (RNI, VSCO etc) and I hardly use any of them! Modern cameras with decent high dynamic range tend to look a bit flat right off the bat because of the high DR, you’re not cutting to black/white on a 12-13 stop m10 as easily as you would on say an 8-9 stop M9, so we need to add some contrast in during post (as you’ve done here)

If you’re serious about getting decent colour from a camera, then a WhiBal card or similar (spend £20 on a proper one, not £2 on a sh*tty one) goes a very long way to achieving this, afterall all auto WB is, is the camera guessing based on what it thinks its seeing, it’s actually amazing they work as well as they do, that said Leica historically haven’t always been the best with autoWB... the m9 looks nice, but not real, the m240 thinks every hour is golden hour! (Dunno about the m10... my only experience is playing with other people’s files and my take away was that i liked more the embedded profile more than the adobe one)

Anyway, I’m sure you know all of this! Sorry to be ‘mansplainy’ :-D
Cheers
 
Cheers Adam, I didn't realise that setting the metering on the rear screen and then switching over to the OVF could be done like that, I'll have to investigate that one.

I've gone round and round with colour over the years and ended up most of the time last year converting to Black and White, but... I know I should do better in colour than I do and so this year I have the option to shoot more digital in colour and BW film with the M6! (He says having just bought 7 rolls of colour film off here) :ROFLMAO:

I do calibrate the iMac I use with a Spyderthingiebob but don't tend to find it makes an amazing difference - indeed all I can see is a very subtle warmth.

I've found so far, having given it a chance the auto WB on the M10 to be pretty much spot on and I've read reviews from people elsewhere that reckon it's the best out there.... I though Fuji had excellent WB, but I think the Leica M10 just bests it. Having said that I do prefer a slightly warmer look to my photographs and so tend to put a very small amount of split tone in the highlights just to warm the image up.

All said and done though I am colourblind, so I could be posting photos that are actually way out of sync and a bit psychedelic to anyone else looking at them! :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
Most raw software tells you underneath the histogram the concentration of rgb if you move the mouse cursor to any point on the image, I use this quite a lot to find the most neutral colour zone in a photo

With live view turned on you can set an manual exposure (& see what it will look like on the lcd) or override the auto exposure with the ev dial or in an auto mode just point the camera at something you want to expose for then lock it down with a half press of the shutter, then compose and focus as normal
 
Adzman808 said:
Most raw software tells you underneath the histogram the concentration of rgb if you move the mouse cursor to any point on the image, I use this quite a lot to find the most neutral colour zone in a photo

With live view turned on you can set an manual exposure (& see what it will look like on the lcd) or override the auto exposure with the ev dial or in an auto mode just point the camera at something you want to expose for then lock it down with a half press of the shutter, then compose and focus as normal
Click to expand...

What's auto mode on the M series :ROFLMAO:
 
wibbly said:
What's auto mode on the M series :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...

aperture priority (and technically auto iso)

i like aperture priority on the M, it tells you the SS in the display, so when i point it at something backlit and it says 1/4000 I can say to myself “is it fk” then point the camera somewhere else see it select (say) 1/2000 and think “that’s more like it” hold the SS half pressed, then re-compose my shot*

and before any purists denounce this automation :-D do note that if aperture priority suggests (say) 1/2000 then manually turning the SS until only the dot is showing (not < or >) then that will also be 1/2000 = because it’s the same light meter (in the camera) doing the math for you.

*yeah I know i could just count back 3 clicks on the SS dial (from A) and I do have enough fingers to cover that, but they’re busy holding the camera :ROFLMAO:
 
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