Show us yer film shots then!

Depends on who you use but at best a couple of days and more usually 3 to 4 days.
 
ndwgolf said:
Guys
How long a turn around do you have in the uk to get a roll of film developed and scanned?
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Well some Asda superstores do 35mm neg dev and scanned to CD for about £3...in about 35mins if not busy. But depending on the branch for the quality of results...anyway you can usually adjust in Photoshop if not covered in hairs or spots (again depends on the operators).
Snappy snaps will dev the film for £3 (depends on the branch) in 1 hour dunno what they charge for scanning...but cheapest to scan yourself.
I've found a good Asda but unfortunately it's 8 miles away but still I've finished a roll of film travelled to Adsa in 30mins got the film done in 30 mins, travelled back to home in 30 mins..so 90mins total is the fastest for me for results other than DIY.
 
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nicoimages said:
Mamiya C330S with the 105/3.5D lens which is outstanding, has such beautiful boker wide open and is very sharp. I am surprised how quickly I got used to that focal length

Ektar 100 self developed with the Tetenal Kit. Scanned in with a Coolscan 9000

Originals at https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974/




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]
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This is a really great set. I love the graphic quality of the first few.
 
With all this technology and camera phones, people are obsessed with instant photos. I forgot how much fun Instant photos can be. How instant do you want? Press button, get print! Here's my friend Ian on Impossible 600 B&W. Think it has started to expire a little though as you can see the lines down this one.

IanTaylor_MusicPhotographer_Manchester.jpg
 
excalibur2 said:
Well some Asda superstores do 35mm neg dev and scanned to CD for about £3...in about 35mins if not busy. But depending on the branch for the quality of results...anyway you can usually adjust in Photoshop if not covered in hairs or spots (again depends on the operators).
Snappy snaps will dev the film for £3 (depends on the branch) in 1 hour dunno what they charge for scanning...but cheapest to scan yourself.
I've found a good Asda but unfortunately it's 8 miles away but still I've finished a roll of film travelled to Adsa in 30mins got the film done in 30 mins, travelled back to home in 30 mins..so 90mins total is the fastest for me for results other than DIY.
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I think the nearest Asda might be about 10,000 miles from Neil, Brian!

@ndwgolf were you thinking of posting some to the UK, Neil, or is this a quality comparison? (PS there might be a more appropriate thread, eg Developing in the UK, or whatever it's called!)
 
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ChrisR said:
I think the nearest Asda might be about 10,000 miles from Neil, Brian!
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HUH! :oops: :$ Oh well I suppose the locals can't dev colour film cheap as they still have to buy expensive chemicals.....But I read:- If the country\area has high heat and humidity some guys store their gear in a cabinet with silica gel or one specially made\bought....... to prevent fungus problems.
 
Robclarke said:
I have been playing about using selective focus using front and rear swing on a large format camera:

img097 by biotecbob, on Flickr
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Great to see this being produced in camera rather than digitally, how difficult is it to see what you're achieving on the ground glass when you're setting up the shot?
 
Yes, you can see the effect on the ground glass. Indeed you can study the ground glass in great detail using a loupe under a dark cloth. However my approach in this instance was more 'quick and dirty'. Nevertheless, I could definitely see the effect on the ground glass even though I didn't use a dark cloth.
 
Robclarke said:
Yes, you can see the effect on the ground glass. Indeed you can study the ground glass in great detail using a loupe under a dark cloth. However my approach in this instance was more 'quick and dirty'. Nevertheless, I could definitely see the effect on the ground glass even though I didn't use a dark cloth.
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That's just the sort of thing I've been thinking of trying. Very nice effect.
 
VirtualAdept said:
I'm fairly sure I've overdone it somewhere along the lines... and I managed to fluff the taking and developing, meaning from two films, one had 8 shots instead of 10, the other had just 2.
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Sounds like a regular film shooter to me...
 
Thank you for the lovely comments on my previous post.

35mm film this time.

Minolta CLE with Zeiss Biogon C 35/2.8 - Ektar 100 - Scanned with a Coolscan 9000 / Vuescan

The Minolta rangefinder is my favorite 35mm camera at the moment - small, light and with a fantastic viewfinder/rangefinder.

I am now using a separate bleach / fix when developing instead of Blix and the difference in the consistency of color in particular blue skies is significant. I used the developer from the Tetenal Kit here as it was still working well and the bleach/fix from the Fuji Hunt Kit.

Originals at https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974/


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Couple of rolls of Vista from Hampton Court on an ME Super turned out a little disastrous. Most of the indoor shots were underexposed - not surprising, given 200 ISO film and some gloom, but I just wish the meter had told me that so I wouldn't have wasted a roll.hampton118-Edit-1.jpg hampton098-Edit-1.jpg

Anyway, a few I liked.
 
nicoimages said:
Thank you for the lovely comments on my previous post.

35mm film this time.

Minolta CLE with Zeiss Biogon C 35/2.8 - Ektar 100 - Scanned with a Coolscan 9000 / Vuescan

The Minolta rangefinder is my favorite 35mm camera at the moment - small, light and with a fantastic viewfinder/rangefinder.

I am now using a separate bleach / fix when developing instead of Blix and the difference in the consistency of color in particular blue skies is significant. I used the developer from the Tetenal Kit here as it was still working well and the bleach/fix from the Fuji Hunt Kit.

Originals at https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974/


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These are just excellent!
 
Tiny scans but some from a trip away at the weekend to a barn in the middle of nowhere. Pentax P30 and 50mm lens. Agfa Vista as well.
 

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Kevin Allan said:
Another studio shot; Mamiya RZ67 and Ektar, home developed in the Fuji Hunt C41 kit:


Tulip remains by Kevin Allan, on Flickr
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I really like this Kevin and spookily I have a pot of tulips in an advanced state of decay that I am going to photograph at the weekend.
On a separate note, how do you find the fuji hunt kit. I currently use the tetanal colortec kit but fancy a try of something different.

Andy
 
Andysnap said:
I really like this Kevin and spookily I have a pot of tulips in an advanced state of decay that I am going to photograph at the weekend.
On a separate note, how do you find the fuji hunt kit. I currently use the tetanal colortec kit but fancy a try of something different.

Andy
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Thanks Andy. I have used Tetenal, Rollei Digibase, and now Fuji Hunt kits. The results seem to be more consistent with the Fuji Hunt kit but that might just be that my technique has become more consistent over time.
 
Kevin Allan said:
Thanks Andy. I have used Tetenal, Rollei Digibase, and now Fuji Hunt kits. The results seem to be more consistent with the Fuji Hunt kit but that might just be that my technique has become more consistent over time.
Click to expand...

I have just started using the Fuji Hunt Kit with the separate Bleach and Fixer instead of the combined Blix of the Tetenal Kit and have also noticed an improvement particularly in the consistency of blue skies which always tended to have a slightly muddy / yellow appearance and needed a bit of PP to get consistent. I was really surprised by the difference as I was not expecting it.
 
Kevin Allan said:
Thanks Andy. I have used Tetenal, Rollei Digibase, and now Fuji Hunt kits. The results seem to be more consistent with the Fuji Hunt kit but that might just be that my technique has become more consistent over time.
Click to expand...
nicoimages said:
I have just started using the Fuji Hunt Kit with the separate Bleach and Fixer instead of the combined Blix of the Tetenal Kit and have also noticed an improvement particularly in the consistency of blue skies which always tended to have a slightly muddy / yellow appearance and needed a bit of PP to get consistent. I was really surprised by the difference as I was not expecting it.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I shall give it a try next time I need some soup.

Andy
 
Just AAMOI about extenders...well I find it's mix and match as some work better with different lenses, anyway tried a Vivitar 2Xs extender matched for Vivitar 70-150 zoom ON a Tokina 100-300mm zoom thus 600mm...h'mm and the results were crap. I'll have another go if I can find an extender for a Canon amongst my stuff :-
Used a tripod and the city of London is 12 miles away......
 
So, having bought some Kodak Professional Holographic Film (ISO 6 dated 2006) from @Eriktheviking, I decided to give it a test run.
I used my Nikon F100 with a 35mm f1.4 ART lens(it was a cloudy day so needed all the help I could get shooting it at ISO 6...).

The film is very contrasty... but, I quite like it.
There is not a lot of info about this film and with ID 19 no longer supplied(although I've managed to now source an ID 19 substitute from The Imaging Warehouse).....so, I winged it a little with the developing. I used HC-110 dilution B, made it from concentrate @1:31(16ml : 484ml). I forgot to pre-wash(supposedly that removes the blue)....I guesstimated that the water was 20 degrees, and developed it for 5 minutes, used water as a stop and fixed as normal.

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This is the colour of the film...
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