It works well on either in my experience, best between 80-120mm, beyond that things get very tricky as you're into higher magnification than 1:1 and it does take some practice. Try something like a 50-80mm lens to get the hang of it, dof won't be as shallow here and magnification will be more in the 1:2 region, much easier to control. As Kei mentions, you really need to be stopped down when focusing so close, I often shoot 1:1 macro at f/11 or so with diffused off cam flash to keep my ISO low. Where you can get away with shooting standard lenses wide open for close ups it's much more difficult with any lens beyond 1:2 magnification. Also manual focus works best, I use the to-and-fro body movement for nailing focus for anything higher magnification than 1:2 - AF does work but it's really only reliable at lesser magnification [or for still subjects]. AF will be fine for the raynox on something like a 50mm but on a 100mm you're going to have a frustrating time trying to auto-focus minute details
Another reason you might find the raynox tough is you are limited to the closer focus range, you can't just pull back and refocus further back to make it easier get a subject sharp, unless you using it on a zoom and go wider to reduce magnification. Like I say, try around 50mm first then increase as you get the hang I'd nailing focus in close.
Just finished editing a few images from today, again with the X-H1 and 16mm, have to say it's about the most fun lens I've had in a long while. Every time I pick the camera up with this lens attached I feel the need to go shoot something, anything! Obviously not BIF or serious portraiture, but it can do a bit of everything and anything else.
The cat had brought me some feathers as a gift, hmmm - no idea what went down but there was this one I was being offered plus a couple tufts of random feathers scattered around the garden ...
Went for a walk today with the kids and took the 16mm hoping to get something interesting but .... nadda, there will be days like that - apart from a few snaps of the girls the day was bland and grey and nothing really stood out - at least i got some exercise
Initially, Set it on Auto ISO up to 3200 or 6400, select min shutter speed, if you are shakey/or a grabby photographer put it on 1/200th, set film simulation to Provia, go out shooting, adjust aperture to suit.
I'm a beginner (I know I've been here a little while but ill health has meant that I've done next to no photography over the last few years) and I'd like some advice please.
I'm hoping (health permitting!) to visit the Design Museum in London next week. I understand that photography is permitted, but flash photography is not.
I'll be taking my XT2 and either my 18-55 or my 18-135 - not sure which yet. I don't know if anything longer than the 18-55 is needed in museum?
I have no idea what the lighting is like or if there is any natural lighting. I was just wondering if any of you have any tips with regard to setting White Balance, ISO etc so that I can take some decent pictures of the exhibit? I know that if left to my own devices I'd probably leave everything on auto and hope for the best!
More local exploration. Went to check out a lake just off the A303 which is part of the Fonthill estate. While walking along one of the paths we came across this derelict building, must be eons old as it has a tree growing through it. Anyway, we thought it worthy of an image or two. Mono definitely paid it more justice....
Well I thoroughly enjoyed the exhibition. It's the Stanley Kubrick exhibition which has been travelling around the world for several years. I watched a YouTube video about the exhibition in San Francisco and it was well spaced out and in a very bright enviroment.
The Design Museum exhibit was confined to a much smaller space (though I did spend over four hours there!) and it was very dark indeed. My photographic 'skills' vary from zero to minimal and I struggled in the dark exhibit space to get anything decent. The foyer was brighter and they had this beauty from the exhibit on display there:
It's just something to note even when testing as some find the images over sharpened and artifacts in what should be smooth areas. I wish Adobe wouldn't force that over sharpening, it's had newer Fuji owners rethink the system.
The default is easily reset to whatever value you like for all imported images. Just hit the Reset button, move the sharpening slider, hold down the Alt key and set the new default. I prefer to have LR sharpening set to zero and do my sharpening in PS.
This is the first time that I have been into Uppermill when the sun was right to shoot the Methodist church and I was carrying a camera.
It seems that the X T30 is the best camera that I have owned for doing hand held pans this was two landscape shots one above the other.
Could have done with some puffy clouds.