The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

I think there are a few here who have both X-H1 and X-T2/3. I've never had the X-H1 but tempted to try one.... For those who have both, what makes you reach for one over the other?

Since selling off my Nikon gear I feel that I should have a second body as a back-up. A new X-T2 for 599 is very tempting, but the X-H1 would be a more interesting choice I think.
 
@psybear

I’ve had 2x X-T1 and an X-T2. On my 2nd X-H1.
The H1 for me is a much better handling camera. I loved be the size and fit. I’m a confirmed back button focus guy.
Love the fact it has a dedicated AF-ON button
It focuses plenty quick enough for me, but I’m a pretty deliberate shooter.
I was going to settle for another X-T2 when the H1 dropped to £999
 
@psybear

I’ve had 2x X-T1 and an X-T2. On my 2nd X-H1.
The H1 for me is a much better handling camera. I loved be the size and fit. I’m a confirmed back button focus guy.
Love the fact it has a dedicated AF-ON button
It focuses plenty quick enough for me, but I’m a pretty deliberate shooter.
I was going to settle for another X-T2 when the H1 dropped to £999

Very helpful Trevor, thanks. Do you still have at least one X-T variant then? And if so when do you choose one over the other?
 
Hottest Bank Holiday Monday today, X-T3 + XF16-55mm some fantastic bikes were in town. The bike Trike was worth a cool £45,000 as had a great chat with the owner plus more to come over the next day or too.

Honda by Dave, on Flickr

Harley by Dave, on Flickr

Trike by Dave, on Flickr

Trike and Skull by Dave, on Flickr

Skull by Dave, on Flickr
 
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Very helpful Trevor, thanks. Do you still have at least one X-T variant then? And if so when do you choose one over the other?

Nope. Only the H1 now. And I only bought it because I wanted to shoot the 16 f1.4
I’d sold all my Fuji gear at the beginning of the year. Went back to Full Frame with Z6.
Needed the 24mm field of view and don’t want to use an adapter.
My mate had a 16mm he wasn’t using. I bought it and needed a body to put it on. Hence H1
Honestly it’s a great set up.
Bur I expect I’ll let it go when Nikon release a native Z mount 24mm

I reserve the right to change my mind at any time...
 
Hottest Bank Holiday Monday today, X-T3 + XF16-55mm some fantastic bikes were in town. The bike Trike was worth a cool £45,000 as had a great chat with the owner plus more to come over the next day or too.

Honda by Dave, on Flickr

Harley by Dave, on Flickr

Trike by Dave, on Flickr

Trike and Skull by Dave, on Flickr

Skull by Dave, on Flickr
Some interesting machines there Dave, I have only just sold all of mine. I swore I'd never let my Blackbird go, but following an incident I changed my mind, it was featured in the Performance Bikes magazine, here are a couple of pics that were featured, I was given a disc with lots on.

Untitled by rick phillips, on Flickr

Untitled by rick phillips, on Flickr
 
Nope. Only the H1 now. And I only bought it because I wanted to shoot the 16 f1.4
I’d sold all my Fuji gear at the beginning of the year. Went back to Full Frame with Z6.
Needed the 24mm field of view and don’t want to use an adapter.
My mate had a 16mm he wasn’t using. I bought it and needed a body to put it on. Hence H1
Honestly it’s a great set up.
Bur I expect I’ll let it go when Nikon release a native Z mount 24mm

I reserve the right to change my mind at any time...

Ah now you've really piqued my interest! Much as I love the Fuji X system and appreciate how much lighter my bag is without my D800 and collection of heavy glass I do much those Nikon NEF files and the massive DR.... And I've looked at the falling price of the Z6 while constantly telling myself to resist!
 
The default is easily reset to whatever value you like for all imported images. Just hit the Reset button, move the sharpening slider, hold down the Alt key and set the new default. I prefer to have LR sharpening set to zero and do my sharpening in PS.

Yeah I just set mine to 20, I've actually set it back to 10 now as I do add a touch to most images but I have masking set to 50. Didn't know you could do it this way, I did it via the menus but pretty much same thing - when in the develop module set the sliders to whatever you'd like as default, head to develop up top > set default settings. It will ask you to confirm to overwrite the previous defaults and you're done.
 
Some interesting machines there Dave, I have only just sold all of mine. I swore I'd never let my Blackbird go, but following an incident I changed my mind, it was featured in the Performance Bikes magazine, here are a couple of pics that were featured, I was given a disc with lots on.

Untitled by rick phillips, on Flickr

Untitled by rick phillips, on Flickr

Thanks Rick, and very nice bike too.
 
Some interesting machines there Dave, I have only just sold all of mine. I swore I'd never let my Blackbird go, but following an incident I changed my mind, it was featured in the Performance Bikes magazine, here are a couple of pics that were featured, I was given a disc with lots on.

Untitled by rick phillips, on Flickr

Untitled by rick phillips, on Flickr

I thought about a Blackbird at one time, so easy to ride, I had the pegs scraping on the test ride... However, there was an almost new 957cc Fireblade in the showroom for a lot less with only 1800 miles on it, so I went with that instead....
 
Ghosts at Leigh-On-Sea (High Key)

SpkEStV.jpg
I love this type of image. So minimalistic, yet full of stories
 
The Fireblade was a nice bike too, I bought the Blackbird to take the missus on the back, I already had a GSXR1000K5 as well as a GSXR750Y, these were later replaced with a BMW S1000R, I am now bike less, and will remain that way. I've had lots of fun on bikes over the years, but my biking days are now over :)
 
I think there are a few here who have both X-H1 and X-T2/3. I've never had the X-H1 but tempted to try one.... For those who have both, what makes you reach for one over the other?

Since selling off my Nikon gear I feel that I should have a second body as a back-up. A new X-T2 for 599 is very tempting, but the X-H1 would be a more interesting choice I think.

Four letters. IBIS.

I have an X-T3 and the X-H1 and though I do appreciate the faster focus speed and the supposed better IQ, I say supposed as I really cannot see a vast improvement, the X-H1 is my preferred choice. I love the size, the heft and the ergonomics. But more importantly, it has transformed my 14 and 90mm lenses. They are both sharp on the X-T3 if care is taken but the IBIS on the X-H1 makes them super sharp and my keeper rate has hit 100%.

I find the X-T3 to be a stunning camera that delivers exactly as promised and my silver one,in a tan Kaza case, looks superb. But I do not get the same feeling of absolute build quality that the X-H1 exudes. The X-H1 puts a smile on my face every time I use it and after a very terrain-tough battlefield tour in Gallipoli I appreciated its ‘built like a brick outhouse’ robustness and superb images from the stabilised body.
 
Four letters. IBIS.

I have an X-T3 and the X-H1 and though I do appreciate the faster focus speed and the supposed better IQ, I say supposed as I really cannot see a vast improvement, the X-H1 is my preferred choice. I love the size, the heft and the ergonomics. But more importantly, it has transformed my 14 and 90mm lenses. They are both sharp on the X-T3 if care is taken but the IBIS on the X-H1 makes them super sharp and my keeper rate has hit 100%.

I find the X-T3 to be a stunning camera that delivers exactly as promised and my silver one,in a tan Kaza case, looks superb. But I do not get the same feeling of absolute build quality that the X-H1 exudes. The X-H1 puts a smile on my face every time I use it and after a very terrain-tough battlefield tour in Gallipoli I appreciated its ‘built like a brick outhouse’ robustness and superb images from the stabilised body.

Thanks Patr, very helpful. I can see how the IBIS could make a huge difference.

And thanks also to Trevor Bray for the very detailed off-thread response.

The current price of the X-H1 at Wex makes it very tempting. Particularly if I could offload the grip to help offset the cost further!
 
Thanks Patr, very helpful. I can see how the IBIS could make a huge difference.

And thanks also to Trevor Bray for the very detailed off-thread response.

The current price of the X-H1 at Wex makes it very tempting. Particularly if I could offload the grip to help offset the cost further!

Buy one without the grip? You can get used ones in 'like new' condition for less than £800 if you catch a 10-15% sale like Jessops and CJ have atm. Honestly, the grips go for about £150 used at best, as anyone who really wanted one bought the package.
 
I think there are a few here who have both X-H1 and X-T2/3. I've never had the X-H1 but tempted to try one.... For those who have both, what makes you reach for one over the other?

Since selling off my Nikon gear I feel that I should have a second body as a back-up. A new X-T2 for 599 is very tempting, but the X-H1 would be a more interesting choice I think.


I just picked up for my mate a new X-H1 with grip and 3 batteries just £849.00 @
Einfinity or X-H1 body and battery only is £799.00

I'm using two X-H1s myself and really should move on my XT2 and 2x XT1s & X-T10 as they get little or no use these days
 
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Very sharp, I have the 18-55 but cant seem to remove the 50-140 as it does everything I need, Oh is that a Tilley

No it is only a Joules... no guarantee like a Tilly, and only half the price. but a nice very wide brim.
 
No wonder people get out of my way when I am shooting.... a very heavy crop.View attachment 253628


Very nice portrait style Fujigraph, liking this shot very much.

"I guess we all imagine what out TP buddy's look like, and this is more or less just what I imagined":)

George.
 
I just picked up for my mate a new X-H1 with grip and 3 batteries just £849.00 @
Einfinity or X-H1 body and battery only is £799.00

I'm using two X-H1s myself and really should move on my XT2 and 2x XT1s & X-T10 as they get little or no use these days

I'm always afraid to buy from einfinity, as Irish customs are notoriously ruthless! They get a whiff of anything they can make a buck on and it will get stopped. I think the UK is a bit more lax on this, as many people use them there without issues.
 
Dumb question time, is the X-T3 eyepiece threaded? I can see it's possible to buy different eye cups but not found anything on the eyepiece itself.

My X-E3 is looking a tad daft today with a nikon 14-24 strapped to the front. Want to see how 14mm looks as that's one of the lenses that I'm looking at. The other lens that I want, fuji don't make, which is an equivalent of a 55mm f2.8 macro. (so a ~35mm macro)
 
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A few from a walk about yesterday eve, X-H1 + 16mm 1.4

Flutter-by by K G, on Flickr

Silos by K G, on Flickr

Actually this one was from the garden the evening before, not that it matters :)

DSCF2691 by K G, on Flickr
Some detail in that butterfly! What's with the darker shade of blue in the middle of #2? Were you using a polariser?
 
Some detail in that butterfly! What's with the darker shade of blue in the middle of #2? Were you using a polariser?

Really liking the butterfly Fujigraph, pushes all the right buttons for me.

George.
 
A few from a walk about yesterday eve, X-H1 + 16mm 1.4

Flutter-by by K G, on Flickr

Silos by K G, on Flickr

Actually this one was from the garden the evening before, not that it matters :)

DSCF2691 by K G, on Flickr

Yeah the 16mm is a cracker for sharpness, the butterfly was at F4 and I was close enough you can see the shadow of the lens hood on the railing :D

The sky in the Silo shot was just shot straight, no filters, I think I used Astia profile in LR and pushed and pulled it about but I didn't do anything with the sky as it was, well ... just blue - would have been better with some dramatic cloud. Even in the B&W version I did of same there's a darkening in the middle of the sky, it's because just out of frame top left is the sun, so the glow over that side is basically sun flare - the rest of the sky is as it was normal [well, before I gave it a slight colour punch]
 
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Query from a Fuji friend. Currently using an X-T2 for mainly night and astro stuff but he had the same issue previously with X-T10 and X-T20:


I have a question about the 56mm f1.2 and 55-200mm Fuji lenses that I wondered if you could help me with.

It relates to astro photography. When I'm shooting astro, I want to secure focus then turn the camera to manual focus to "lock it in" for the rest of the shoot. I can do this fine with the likes of the 10-24 and 35mm f2.

But when I use the 56 and 55-200, the following happens:

- Secure focus with the body and lens (either auto or manual)
- Turn to manual focus on the camera body
- Take the shot
- Review the shot using the playback button

So far, so good. But then...

- Press Back to come out of Playback (or indeed any other button) and the lens immediately hunts for focus (thereby often losing the focus I had previously set), even though the body is set to manual focus.

It seems there is some focus motor/mechanism inside those lenses that causes this to happen, unlike the other lenses I use.

Is there any way I can turn this internal lens focus off and go to full manual focus?

Thanks.
 
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Query from a Fuji friend. I forgot to ask what body but pretty sure it's either X-T10 or X-T20 he uses for mainly night and astro stuff:



I have a question about the 56mm f1.2 and 55-200mm Fuji lenses that I wondered if you could help me with.

It relates to astro photography. When I'm shooting astro, I want to secure focus then turn the camera to manual focus to "lock it in" for the rest of the shoot. I can do this fine with the likes of the 10-24 and 35mm f2.

But when I use the 56 and 55-200, the following happens:

- Secure focus with the body and lens (either auto or manual)
- Turn to manual focus on the camera body
- Take the shot
- Review the shot using the playback button

So far, so good. But then...

- Press Back to come out of Playback (or indeed any other button) and the lens immediately hunts for focus (thereby often losing the focus I had previously set), even though the body is set to manual focus.

It seems there is some focus motor/mechanism inside those lenses that causes this to happen, unlike the other lenses I use.

Is there any way I can turn this internal lens focus off and go to full manual focus?

Thanks.

I could be wrong here, but this could be the aperture chatter - where the camera is auto adjusting for changes in light when any auto setting is used. Try using 'T' on the dial to adjust shutter speed and lock in the ISO on the other dial, this should stop aperture chatter. If not, then no idea sorry
 
Cheers lads, beautiful creature the Tortoiseshell butterfly, at least I believe that's what it is
How on earth do you manage to get so close? I have a hard time getting them with 140mm let alone 16mm. I get within about 2m and they're off before I've had a chance to focus.

Test run with the 14-24mm f2.8 on the X-E3

The Bay by Kyle, on Flickr

The Bay by Kyle, on Flickr

Having now had my X-E3 for a month, I've worked out all the foibles that drive me crackers. A quick test run didn't reveal many of these, it's only having used it for some time that I've found some of them.

1: The AF-L button. It cannot be turned off. If I want it to be an AF ON button, I have to loose AF off the shutter release which isn't an option for me. If I prefer AF lock to be press and hold, I have to live with AE-L being press and hold too, which again is a PITA.

2. AE-L in switch mode works well except that unlike my nikon and canon cameras, it does not switch off after the metering clears after x number of seconds.

3. When the view mode is set to EVF + sensor, pressing menu requires you to put it back up to your eye in order to make any adjustments. Why can't it be like pressing the playback button which switches the screen on if it knows you aren't looking into the finder?

4. The Q menu. No use to me, but I cannot turn it off nor can I reassign the button.

5. No eyecup or eyepiece attachment options. I knew about this going in but it's still annoying.

Overall, I like it, particularly the image quality that can be achieved, the quiet shutter and the light weight. I think that there are a lot of areas that fuji could improve by simply providing more options on the buttons. No doubt a better laid out body like the X-T3 and X-H1 which have more space are less of a compromise.
 
I could be wrong here, but this could be the aperture chatter - where the camera is auto adjusting for changes in light when any auto setting is used. Try using 'T' on the dial to adjust shutter speed and lock in the ISO on the other dial, this should stop aperture chatter. If not, then no idea sorry

Passed that on Keith, thanks. Also edited OP as he has confirmed this is with an X-T2.
 
How on earth do you manage to get so close? I have a hard time getting them with 140mm let alone 16mm. I get within about 2m and they're off before I've had a chance to focus.

Test run with the 14-24mm f2.8 on the X-E3

The Bay by Kyle, on Flickr

The Bay by Kyle, on Flickr

Having now had my X-E3 for a month, I've worked out all the foibles that drive me crackers. A quick test run didn't reveal many of these, it's only having used it for some time that I've found some of them.

1: The AF-L button. It cannot be turned off. If I want it to be an AF ON button, I have to loose AF off the shutter release which isn't an option for me. If I prefer AF lock to be press and hold, I have to live with AE-L being press and hold too, which again is a PITA.

2. AE-L in switch mode works well except that unlike my nikon and canon cameras, it does not switch off after the metering clears after x number of seconds.

3. When the view mode is set to EVF + sensor, pressing menu requires you to put it back up to your eye in order to make any adjustments. Why can't it be like pressing the playback button which switches the screen on if it knows you aren't looking into the finder?

4. The Q menu. No use to me, but I cannot turn it off nor can I reassign the button.

5. No eyecup or eyepiece attachment options. I knew about this going in but it's still annoying.

Overall, I like it, particularly the image quality that can be achieved, the quiet shutter and the light weight. I think that there are a lot of areas that fuji could improve by simply providing more options on the buttons. No doubt a better laid out body like the X-T3 and X-H1 which have more space are less of a compromise.

Q menu on the XH1 drives me nuts too, i never use it but I'm constantly pressing it by accident, really irritating. I believe there's a way to kill it but I keep forgetting to look into it It's in a completely dumb position on the H, protruding out right in the centre of the thumb grip on back.

On getting close to smaller subjects, I guess you get a knack for it over time doing close up and/or macro - where often your subjects are tiny, skittish bugs that you need to get within inches of. For the butterfly, it landed ahead of me as I was walking along that bridge, I could see the shot before even raising the camera. I had the camera already on my shoulder, had just come from taking the Silo shot. As I got closer I began quickly changing settings, I knew I'd only have one chance so I made sure not to cast my shadow where it landed or it was gone. Sun was to the left and harsh, so I almost had to shimmy sideways up to where the butterfly was :D looking away from it like I didn't know it was there, 'no threat here, relax!' :D Once I fired off my first shot a little further back, then I had something so got a bit more confident to slide in as close as I could get. Once I got this one it did fly off
 
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