The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

My issue is indecision, I do like the jpegs but at the time of shooting I've no idea which to go for so stick to RAW so I can choose later, not so good for Acros though sadly

Why is that then? Can't you do the Acros selection afterwards?
 
The XF14mm is excellent, my 3rd favourite Fuji prime (after the 23F1.4 and the 90), its nice and compact and shares it's hood (and filter size) with the XF-18-55. Its very sharp and has next to no optical distortion. I have a 14mm album on flickr if you want to browse https://www.flickr.com/photos/89667368@N05/albums/72157643112473214/page2

Thank you - food fo rthought. I will have to see if I get the gig back first. If I get reinstated I will need it and will get it. 3 months is a long time t be off work and getting back in with the clients again is going to occupy my mind for the foreseeable future, before the winter doldrums comes in.
 
Why is that then? Can't you do the Acros selection afterwards?

You can in Lightroom but I'm not 100% sure it's quite the same.

But I'm also trying to use On1 and that doesn't have it at all (yet)
 
Actually thats something that hadn't occurred to me, were I to leave in on camera until I was sure I didn't want it I could convert in camera as you say then re-import - thanks, nice tip and photo for that matter :D
 
Sorry - that was what I meant - because if you choose RAW and jpeg and then change for Acros and convert the selected image? That was how it worked in my Nikon anyway....ok in monochrome but it is the same thing.
 
Just a query folks, when I look on my Flickr at the photo it says in the Show EXIF taken in Auto, but I took the shots in Aperture mode ? One more thing, am I right in thinking to set Shutter Speed on the X-T20, I dial in a shutter speed and that is now set for it ?

Not sure about the shutter speed on the XT20, on the XT-1/2 if you set a shutter speed on the dedicated dial, it'll be that speed. Then it would be shutter priority though. You say aperture priority? If you are truly in AP mode then the camera will decide the shutter speed accordingly, if you have a set ISO. If you have ISO on auto, then it'll try to balance between the ISO and shutter speed, keeping your aperture locked in. Exp comp plays a part also, if you prefer faster shutter speed in AP mode, then set exp comp to -1 or so. This is why I almost always shoot full manual. I want to control all 3 aspects. The odd time I'll hit Auto ISO (which I set to 200-3200) but I will almost always control the shutter and aperture manually..

As for exif data, people ignore all but the ISO/aperture/Shutter speed on flickr tbh, nobody checks beyond that.
 
Just a query folks, when I look on my Flickr at the photo it says in the Show EXIF taken in Auto, but I took the shots in Aperture mode ? One more thing, am I right in thinking to set Shutter Speed on the X-T20, I dial in a shutter speed and that is now set for it ?
That's right, because it's not manual. The shutter speed is auto in your example.

To set the shutter speed, simply turn the dial. If the aperture is also set to a fixed value, and the same for the ISO, then you are in Manual mode. Anything else is considered ( by the exif) as being an Auto mode.
 
Simon, I THINK you can do raw processing in camera using the X-Ts - shoot in raw then apply ant film simulations later. I shoot JPEG only, hence the THINK !

Good to see that you're managing to get out working again. (BTW, did you see my letter in the rag?!)
 
That's right, because it's not manual. The shutter speed is auto in your example.

To set the shutter speed, simply turn the dial. If the aperture is also set to a fixed value, and the same for the ISO, then you are in Manual mode. Anything else is considered ( by the exif) as being an Auto mode.

Nice one and Thank you Stephen (y)
 
Simon, I THINK you can do raw processing in camera using the X-Ts - shoot in raw then apply ant film simulations later. I shoot JPEG only, hence the THINK !

Good to see that you're managing to get out working again. (BTW, did you see my letter in the rag?!)
Yes you can. Once you are in image review you can then apply jpeg processing to your RAW images. You retain the RAW and have an additional jpeg.
 
Just a query folks, when I look on my Flickr at the photo it says in the Show EXIF taken in Auto, but I took the shots in Aperture mode ? One more thing, am I right in thinking to set Shutter Speed on the X-T20, I dial in a shutter speed and that is now set for it ?
IIRC you set T mode on your dial. You set your shutter speed (not sure how you do that on the T20!)and you have to set A on your lens. That gives shutter priority. If you have a specific aperture on your lens then you are in full manual mode.
 
Posted these on the macro forum but may be of some interest here too :)

Have been trying to get a 55-200 working with a Raynox diopter but just could not get on with it at all - switched back to an 18-135 and am now up and running!

These were shot with XT-1 and 18-135mm at 100-135ish with Raynox DCR-250. Lighting with Nissin I40 flash and homemade diffuser.

Might treat myself to the 80mm macro when it comes but this setup will do in the meantime :)


Bee Macro
by Mike Smith, on Flickr


Shield Bug Macro
by Mike Smith, on Flickr
 
Guys, what is the focusing like between the X-T2 and X-T20?

Should be very similar but owning a xt2 I can honestly say the focusing and particularly tracking is superb and it totally nails fast moving objects.
Miles better than xt1
 
Should be very similar but owning a xt2 I can honestly say the focusing and particularly tracking is superb and it totally nails fast moving objects.
Miles better than xt1

What do you find miles better? It's slightly better at best in my experience, a bit snappier in initial acquisition for sure. The handling of the X-T2 is what I like the best (joystick, proper back button focusing).
 
I'm knee deep in sorting and processing everything from my Australia trip. This is the first time I've used Lightroom mobile but so far it's going very well. I have 3 days left of my trial to decide whether to pony up for the subscription!

Is anyone else here using a combination of LR mobile on iPad syncing through CC to laptop/desktop?
 
Posted these on the macro forum but may be of some interest here too :)

Have been trying to get a 55-200 working with a Raynox diopter but just could not get on with it at all - switched back to an 18-135 and am now up and running!

These were shot with XT-1 and 18-135mm at 100-135ish with Raynox DCR-250. Lighting with Nissin I40 flash and homemade diffuser.

Might treat myself to the 80mm macro when it comes but this setup will do in the meantime :)


Bee Macro
by Mike Smith, on Flickr


Shield Bug Macro
by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Nice and very interested in macro.

I just had a quick blast, but I'm presuming you cropped these as I was seeing a huge "vignette", but thats a very minor trade-off and found that if I put a tube on that would get rid of that.
 
ah, I was around 100, perhaps I should have pushed it - anyway need to re-shoot them all, I completely forgot to take shutter speed of auto and it offered up a load of 1\25 shots... they were not exactly what you'd call crisp :)
 
Posted these on the macro forum but may be of some interest here too :)

Have been trying to get a 55-200 working with a Raynox diopter but just could not get on with it at all - switched back to an 18-135 and am now up and running!

These were shot with XT-1 and 18-135mm at 100-135ish with Raynox DCR-250. Lighting with Nissin I40 flash and homemade diffuser.

Might treat myself to the 80mm macro when it comes but this setup will do in the meantime :)


Bee Macro
by Mike Smith, on Flickr


Shield Bug Macro
by Mike Smith, on Flickr

Very nice results :plus1:
 
ah, I was around 100, perhaps I should have pushed it - anyway need to re-shoot them all, I completely forgot to take shutter speed of auto and it offered up a load of 1\25 shots... they were not exactly what you'd call crisp :)
Heheh - I've done that a few times too :)

I usually go for shutter at 1/180 (max sync speed) + f16 (for some decent depth of field) and flash on ETTL (or manual sometimes) - sorry if I am suggesting how to suck eggs!
 
Just a query folks, when I look on my Flickr at the photo it says in the Show EXIF taken in Auto, but I took the shots in Aperture mode ? One more thing, am I right in thinking to set Shutter Speed on the X-T20, I dial in a shutter speed and that is now set for it ?

Are you sure you haven't accidently engaged the auto lever on the X-T20?
 
Are you sure you haven't accidently engaged the auto lever on the X-T20?
lol, thankfully I'm not (usually) that bad, no the shots were in a dim room with flash on but I'd left everything as normal for outdoor shoot, okay I am that bad :)

I'd managed to catch the aperture wheel and set it to f22, then ISO kicked it up to 6400 (auto's upper limit) and bless it, it did its best, but I really must remember to at least glace at the settings!
 
Funnily enough that why I prefer #1, maybe I've yet to hit the HDR is awesome stage in my development ;)

Stages-of-a-Photographer-1024x859.png
 
Posted these on the macro forum but may be of some interest here too :)

Have been trying to get a 55-200 working with a Raynox diopter but just could not get on with it at all - switched back to an 18-135 and am now up and running!

These were shot with XT-1 and 18-135mm at 100-135ish with Raynox DCR-250. Lighting with Nissin I40 flash and homemade diffuser.

Might treat myself to the 80mm macro when it comes but this setup will do in the meantime :)


Bee Macro
by Mike Smith, on Flickr


Shield Bug Macro
by Mike Smith, on Flickr
These look fantastic Mike.
I've got the same Raynox which I've kept after selling my DSLR kit so it looks like it'll be worth a try out.
 
I have a new conundrum for you all to chew the fat about.

SD cards for the XT2. Yes, I can read the manual. Fuji require me to spend out on something like a SDXC class3 64GB card FOR EACH SLOT. I have no doubt that these are very wonderful pieces of silicon engineering indeed, but why the hell would I NEED 64Gb ? Even for 30 minutes of video filming in 4k I bet a 16GB card would stow it away in just a few of its pockets and not even open the rucksack on its back. Just what is the requirement of this huge memory for?

Now, before you jump in with what you have been suckered into going and buying. I had an 8GB card in my little point and squirt, I was suckered into buying it, because in reality I expect a 1GB would have covered everything I ever did on it. (I still use it and have stuck a 4GB card that was lying around in it, some little Kingston horror wearing a blue uniform, must be RAF). I haven't had the camera more than a week, and needed something to shove in the slot to play with. It turns out that this 30MB/s old school SDHC class 1 card works perfectly. I even did some video of geese coming over, badly because I haven't worked out how to alter the exposure in video mode yet, but it recorded perfectly, without any hold ups or hitches and the video clips have downloaded perfectly. Maybe had I splashed out £150 on fancy cards I could have saved myself 2 or 3 minutes while they transferred from the card to the confuser, possibly not because the cockroach drive in my confuser is likely a bottleneck anyway.

Any thoughts on cards? Anyone had similar experiences? Anyone had any glitches from my approach? I am tempted to just buy another one of these, or maybe the smallest capacity of the higher class card available for the second slot. Currently I am just shooting onto the one card. A BIG SHOOT for me would be maybe 200 shots - hence why i say, what do I need all that wasted capacity for? Perhaps there is a technical reason I don't know.
 
@Dave70D Very nice! Those photos make me consider the 55-200 mm. I know my current tripod would like it better than the 50-140 mm. I should just rent the two lenses I'm looking at/thinking about at the same time and compare them side-by-side in all the situations I think I might want to use them.
 
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