The Official Fuji X10/X20/X30/XF1/XQ1 Thread

Terrywoodenpic said:
It is nothing at all like a reflex view finder.it is a direct vision optical finder, and like all such it is subject to the normal parallax.
The X20 added some data on an ovelaid lcd into the optical path but is otherwise similar.
the X30 excanged the optical finder for a fully integrated lcd finder, which is as good as they get.
All three produce excellent results for their generation and are fun to use.
The X30 functions and feels like an advanced camera.
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Thanks for the info Terry, when you say its a direct optical finder I take thats like the old Film Range finder ones? That would happily work for me. The temptation of the X20 having info in the viewfinder maybe something thats swinging me towards to the X20 as then you know what settings your shooting which is a big help, all food for thought at the end of the day, thanks again for the detailed reply :)
 
There are some reviews who reckon the
X10 with the EXR mode think it's called is actually the best of the three
 
Terry has it right all round I think. The viewfinder on the X10 is only for general guidance, As well as the parallax issue you only see 85% of the image through the viewfinder so It's only there to assist not really to frame your shots.
 
Merluza said:
Terry has it right all round I think. The viewfinder on the X10 is only for general guidance, As well as the parallax issue you only see 85% of the image through the viewfinder so It's only there to assist not really to frame your shots.
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We are somewhat more critical of simple optical finders than we were in the film days.
They mostly had no parallax compensation and also about 85% field of view. Most users were neither aware of this nor it seemed cared at all.
It it strange but they/you get more accurate with practice.
 
I hope you realise Joe that once you start down the road of swinging towards the X20 you are but a step way from thinking that the X30 isn't much more expensive. I would go for either the X10 which is a great little camera at a bargain price or the X30 which is possibly a greater little camera, depending on your requirements, at 2-3 times the price. Don't mess with Mr in-between.
 
Merluza said:
I hope you realise Joe that once you start down the road of swinging towards the X20 you are but a step way from thinking that the X30 isn't much more expensive. I would go for either the X10 which is a great little camera at a bargain price or the X30 which is possibly a greater little camera, depending on your requirements, at 2-3 times the price. Don't mess with Mr in-between.
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Thats very wise words Jim, one seems to always lead to the other model up and before you know it your spending 2x as much as you planned out to :D I think at this moment in time I will go with the X10 if anything and work with that and see how I get on with it and all being well and enjoying the camera I will leap to the X30 if I feel the need to in the future.
 
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The X10 viewfinder is pretty primitive; you get an optical view that is pretty close to the zooming lens view (parallax excepted for close shots), but absolutely no information about focus or anything. Nothing, nada, zilch. Point, frame, shoot, half press, listen for beep, full press, hope.

I run my X10 in the "medium" mode (6 mp) which supposedly uses the EXR sensor to best advantage for better dynamic range. I've seen various reviews that say 'taint so. IMHO though, I get pretty good dynamic range, and 6 mp turns out to be good for most purposes up to at least A4 prints (and probably A3 prints viewed from a "normal" range).

I love my X10, but not blindly!
 
RAW - DR on the X10 - shadow recovery is pretty darned good - there are examples earlier in this thread.
Highlights not quite so good so have to treat totally different to the 5DII which highlight recovery is well above par - but it is similar to the way Nikon DSLRs handle recovery.

Also very similar on my X30.
Here's an example where the off camera flash failed to fire, but I took it in RAW and whacked the sliders over to get something usable from the available light.
BTW - that's my niece and her Mum who I took caving for the first time yesterday; big adventure for them and the flash not firing means this is a very mediocre image, but at least I got something to give them :)
20150905-145611-DSCF8226-L.jpg
 
DuncanDisorderly said:
RAW - DR on the X10 - shadow recovery is pretty darned good - there are examples earlier in this thread.
Highlights not quite so good so have to treat totally different to the 5DII which highlight recovery is well above par - but it is similar to the way Nikon DSLRs handle recovery.

Also very similar on my X30.
Here's an example where the off camera flash failed to fire, but I took it in RAW and whacked the sliders over to get something usable from the available light.
BTW - that's my niece and her Mum who I took caving for the first time yesterday; big adventure for them and the flash not firing means this is a very mediocre image, but at least I got something to give them :)
20150905-145611-DSCF8226-L.jpg
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Good to hear about the Shadow recovery being good as that is always something I like to have some leeway to play with bringing the shadows back. Out of interest on the sliders or in EV terms etc. how much was that image pulled back? I started earlier to have a look a look back but guess I will have to do some more digging to find some more info, Thanks again for some interesting information about how the camera comes to the full frame 5D II, all good info to learn :)
 
I use cheap Chinese radio triggers from eBay - most of the time they work great but on this occasion I'd left the receiver turned on after the previous trip with it and I think the batteries were very suspect. It's worked far better in the past.
The flash is a vintage Canon Speedlight which only works properly with my old film SLRs. However, flipped in to manual it works fine and punches out all the light I need. Never felt the need to invest in a 'modern' flash which does TTL metering.
 
Thats cool. I have a 550ex, so might invest in some triggers. Would like something smaller though since its bigger and heavier than the camera!
 
What dynamic range do most people use on their X30? I read somewhere that 100 is best but I just saw some clean nice low light photos from the X30 with dynamic range on 400
 
John Young said:
What dynamic range do most people use on their X30? I read somewhere that 100 is best but I just saw some clean nice low light photos from the X30 with dynamic range on 400
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If you shoot raw it makes no diffcerence.
 
DuncanDisorderly said:
Except DR400 forces the minimum ISO to 400 - which does affect the RAWs.
I only shoot RAW and have mine set to DR100 so I get the best possible ISO for image quality in good light.
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Absolutely. .. however all that is happening is that is adjusting the iso so that there is lots of head room available.
better to make decisions like that your self, For the best exposure and quality.
Like you I either set iso100 or perhaps 200 and rarely change it in "normal" conditions.
By setting Dr 400 the least exposed areas are problematic noise wise.
 
OK thank you...... I only asked as I saw a review were someone has done night time photos (really good) and all his was shot JPEG with DR set to 400
 
Went out today and took a few street photos with the X30 - be gently I have never done street photography before but regardless of how good photos are it was good fun and so easy with the X30

Photos JPEG straight from the camera nothing done to them apart from resized for forum


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Street%204.jpg
 
Living in West Sussex but the boy is at Durham Uni. I cant get enough of the place and its people.

Doubt I could tire of the place to be honest, stuff to shoot around every corner, the hills are a bit of a bugger though.
 
John Young said:
What dynamic range do most people use on their X30? I read somewhere that 100 is best but I just saw some clean nice low light photos from the X30 with dynamic range on 400
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If you are shooting jpegs, dr400 will help in high contrast situations to hold both highlight detail and open the shadows.
In raw you can get more available headroom anyway.
 
ManVan said:
Living in West Sussex but the boy is at Durham Uni. I cant get enough of the place and its people.

Doubt I could tire of the place to be honest, stuff to shoot around every corner, the hills are a bit of a bugger though.
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Your lad has done well to get into Durham Uni its highly regarded and I think is something like 3rd top in the country after Cambridge and Oxford

Yeah Durham is a stunning place and lived here (well about 8 miles outside in a village) all my life and never get sick of walking around here. It has a certain feel about the place that gets under your skin. But yes we have some good hills around here to being so close to the pennines I know I pedal up them regularly

Terrywoodenpic said:
If you are shooting jpegs, dr400 will help in high contrast situations to hold both highlight detail and open the shadows.
In raw you can get more available headroom anyway.
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Ahhh right I see - interesting I will have to play - thank you

These are the photos I was referring to but I think he did also use the pro-low light mode on some

https://www.flickr.com/photos/25805910@N05/sets/72157647028869551/
 
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John Young said:
Your lad has done well to get into Durham Uni its highly regarded and I think is something like 3rd top in the country after Cambridge and Oxford

Yeah Durham is a stunning place and lived here (well about 8 miles outside in a village) all my life and never get sick of walking around here. It has a certain feel about the place that gets under your skin. But yes we have some good hills around here to being so close to the pennines I know I pedal up them regularly



Ahhh right I see - interesting I will have to play - thank you

These are the photos I was referring to but I think he did also use the pro-low light mode on some

https://www.flickr.com/photos/25805910@N05/sets/72157647028869551/
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As an ex-pro, I of course have no idea what the pro lowlight mode does, any more than I know what any other of the "special" modes do.
However I do know, that in general terms, they set up how jpegs are exposed and processed using "expert" algorithms.
As I have never used any of them, on any camera, I can not comment on their effectiveness.

The website you linked shows night shots taken in extremely high contrast situations, it is impossible to judge how "good" they are, as there is nothing to compare them with.
 
Terrywoodenpic said:
As an ex-pro, I of course have no idea what the pro lowlight mode does, any more than I know what any other of the "special" modes do.
However I do know, that in general terms, they set up how jpegs are exposed and processed using "expert" algorithms.
As I have never used any of them, on any camera, I can not comment on their effectiveness.

The website you linked shows night shots taken in extremely high contrast situations, it is impossible to judge how "good" they are, as there is nothing to compare them with.
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I think they can be judged on their own, they give a good idea of the cameras low light ability and surprising lack of noise in some of them. When you say compare them with do you mean other cameras ?
 
John Young said:
I think they can be judged on their own, they give a good idea of the cameras low light ability and surprising lack of noise in some of them. When you say compare them with do you mean other cameras ?
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To understand what any process or algorithm does, or has done, you need to compare it to shots taken at the same time but without their use.
This takes the equipment out of the equation, and determines if the process has lead to an actual improvement or not, and perhaps even by how much and at what cost.
The results we saw give us none of this information. They just show us very acceptable results. It is only half the story.
It is like a patient given medicine and not dying.
Was the medicine responsible
would he have lived anyway.
did the medicine help at all?
Who can tell......?
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
I have never heard of isoless sensors before. This is pretty interesting stuff. I guess the whole ettr thing goes out the window, you just need to expose for the highlights and bump the rest in PP.

Interesting read - www.fujilove.com/isoless-photography-with-the-fujifilm-x-series/
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That was interesting - thank you for the link :)

Terrywoodenpic said:
To understand what any process or algorithm does, or has done, you need to compare it to shots taken at the same time but without their use.
This takes the equipment out of the equation, and determines if the process has lead to an actual improvement or not, and perhaps even by how much and at what cost.
The results we saw give us none of this information. They just show us very acceptable results. It is only half the story.
It is like a patient given medicine and not dying.
Was the medicine responsible
would he have lived anyway.
did the medicine help at all?
Who can tell......?
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Ahhh right I see what you mean, yes its a good result but what did the real word scene actually look like or what would it look like processed differently.

Well for me personally I am happy with the end result (y)
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
I have never heard of isoless sensors before. This is pretty interesting stuff. I guess the whole ettr thing goes out the window, you just need to expose for the highlights and bump the rest in PP.

Interesting read - www.fujilove.com/isoless-photography-with-the-fujifilm-x-series/
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Iso less photography has been discussed in a number of long threads on TP and discussed in photo science articles in AP.
It is neither a new Idea nor a magic bullet.

The article above pushes the concept further than Fuji sensors can give it legs.
but it is certainly the direction things are going. Nikon ff sensors are still further along that road, if only because they have greater efficience in converting captured photons.
 
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John Young said:
That was interesting - thank you for the link :)



Ahhh right I see what you mean, yes its a good result but what did the real word scene actually look like or what would it look like processed differently.

Well for me personally I am happy with the end result (y)
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No.. you are happy with the quality of the pictures.
You have no idea if the process used did any thing to contribute at all.
 
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Joeturner11 said:
Out of interest do any of you use the ''Pro Focus'' feature? Been looking at that with complete interest, looking at results online it seems to work really really well.
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Yes I've used it on occasions. It looks for human faces but sometimes you can fool it with animals etc. It's an interesting effect but looks a little artificial compared with subject isolation achieved through conventional optical means.

An Afternoon With Alice by Aimless Alliterations, on Flickr
 
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Can someone tell me how to remove the road markings in Lightroom please? Thanks, AL

Marina%20Street%20small.jpg
 
not sure why you would want to remove road markings?
But it is far easier done in Photoshop than Lightroom Which is too broad a tool for pixel level alterations.
 
Al1944 said:
Can someone tell me how to remove the road markings in Lightroom please? Thanks, AL

Marina%20Street%20small.jpg
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You need to use the Spot Removal Tool in Lightroom which is a little more trickier than Photoshop which is located top right, with a circular symbol next to the crop and straighten tool. As Terry says far easier done in photoshop, in photoshop use the spot healing brush and move the mouse over it and it will do it in seconds.
 
Yes I had a go with the Spot Removal Tool earlier without much success. I might invest in Photoshop at some future date.

Thanks,
AL
 
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