Canon EOS 5D Mark IV Owners Thread

jonneymendoza said:
No problem with me on a Sony mirrorless :). I've used the Canon sigma 35mm on it
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Before i got rid of my Sony a6000 i was using Canon lenses almost exclusively on it. The only two FL' s i used in E mount lenses were the 35mm /1.8 and 50mm f/1.8. I loved those two lenses. So small and light yet both were stabilised.
 
Hopefully joining the fun their week. 5DIV, grip and spare battery are on their way. Sad to retire the 1DIV.

Neil
 
dave_bass5 said:
Not shot much this week, but quite pleased how this came out.


Bunny hop by Dave Pearce, on Flickr

Also tried a bit of close photography. I think i need another LED light though, although i like the shadows in this one.

Pepper by Dave Pearce, on Flickr
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Nice pics. Just been looking at your photostream and am really impressed with your processing getting you images to 'pop' like they do. Even shots at f5.6 with your 24-70mm f4 the subjects seem to pop, what's the secret? I know lighting and lenses help, but wondering if you do something 'special' in PP?
 
Thanks very much, very much appreciated. Most of my recent shots have been processed in Lightroom mobile, whilst sitting on the couch, but Ive been pleased with how they have come out. Any shots with a watermark on them have been shots Ive transferred from Lightroom mobile to the decktop version, and and just tweaked a bit as LR mobile is lacking a few things. I do tend to use this workflow mainly for Flickr. I don't bother using the desktop LR for Facebook etc.
I'm not sure i do anything special. I have been getting in to trying a more old fashioned look, and I think thats working well so some shots. With that i lower the vibrancy, and up the saturation and pull the blacks back in the Curves tool. Ive also been adding a bit of yellow in the shadows using the split toning. This seems to give a nice look to some shots.
Sometime i use the usual fake HDR settings, where you pull the highlights rights down, shadows right down and Clarity right up. I do tend to lower the shadows on almost every shot i take, and also lower the highlights a little. Ill also use the local adjustment brush of shots like the above and lower the exposure a bit around the subject. This draws a bit more attention to the main subject.

I do find that the right lens and body just have a certain pop to them. The 24-70 f/4, along with the f/2.8 and 16-35 f/4 just seem to give this look, there is just so much detail in the shots. The shot above of my son was quite a high ISO and was still quite gloomy, but it handled the processing really well.

Forgot to add, i only ever use Lightroom, although i do have Photoshop as well. I find LR does all i need these days, and the more i use it the more powerful it seems.
 
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dave_bass5 said:
Thanks very much, very much appreciated. Most of my recent shots have been processed in Lightroom mobile, whilst sitting on the couch, but Ive been pleased with how they have come out. Any shots with a watermark on them have been shots Ive transferred from Lightroom mobile to the decktop version, and and just tweaked a bit as LR mobile is lacking a few things. I do tend to use this workflow mainly for Flickr. I don't bother using the desktop LR for Facebook etc.
I'm not sure i do anything special. I have been getting in to trying a more old fashioned look, and I think thats working well so some shots. With that i lower the vibrancy, and up the saturation and pull the blacks back in the Curves tool. Ive also been adding a bit of yellow in the shadows using the split toning. This seems to give a nice look to some shots.
Sometime i use the usual fake HDR settings, where you pull the highlights rights down, shadows right down and Clarity right up. I do tend to lower the shadows on almost every shot i take, and also lower the highlights a little. Ill also use the local adjustment brush of shots like the above and lower the exposure a bit around the subject. This draws a bit more attention to the main subject.

I do find that the right lens and body just have a certain pop to them. The 24-70 f/4, along with the f/2.8 and 16-35 f/4 just seem to give this look, there is just so much detail in the shots. The shot above of my son was quite a high ISO and was still quite gloomy, but it handled the processing really well.
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Thanks for this (y)
 
dave_bass5 said:
No problem. I Just looked at your photostream and am now following you. You have some great shots. I love the Tiger shots. When I went to Paradise park it was not a nice day. Wish i had gotten some shots like you did.
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Thanks very much. TBH weather was pretty awful at Paradise when we went, very grey and murky for most of the day :( Living so close to Yorkshire Wildlife Park we've had an annual pass for the last year so have been able to go in all weathers.
 
I think I can get used to this.

LC7byoz.jpg


UanwRR5.png
 
Thanks all. I rather like the base colour palette out of the camera, looking forward to creating more images with it.

I hope Sigma bring out that 14/1.8 soon, really want a fast ultra wide prime!
 
I did bring my Fuji system to a shoot today but I can't bring myself to use it....for 1 thing, I don't have a Sigma 20mm/1.4 on that which I and loving.

Yvv0jVw.jpg
 
Box Brownie said:
Still having GAS desire for a Mk4 but I wonder (and sorry if this has been covered in this multi page thread) if anyone has experienced what is described in this DP review thread where the Mk4 has power up issues.

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4076652?page=11
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No, and I have 2.

The only quirks I notice is when it goes to sleep, it doesn't wake up like the mk3 did. The mk4 needs to press the shutter down to wake it up.
 
No power-up problems with mine - faultless operation since I bought it in March. I'm very pleased with it, a good upgrade from the 7D

Chris
 
Ordered from panamoz so I should be joining the club this week, I'll practice the auto mode for a bit then I'll start a wedding photography business next week haha
 
jonoooo125 said:
Ordered from panamoz so I should be joining the club this week, I'll practice the auto mode for a bit then I'll start a wedding photography business next week haha
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Well the auto mode is there to make anyone a pro instantly, so go for it. Canon wouldnt have put it on there is it wasn't meant to be used. Any other mode is just there to show off in front of other photographers :)

Congrats by the way.
 
dave_bass5 said:
Well the auto mode is there to make anyone a pro instantly, so go for it. Canon wouldnt have put it on there is it wasn't meant to be used. Any other mode is just there to show off in front of other photographers :)

Congrats by the way.
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Thanks, I like to think I'm a bit better than auto but if you take enough photos one eventually comes out ok. Funny story about modes though, I was once part of a christening and obviously I couldn't take pictures myself so a friend was adamant they could use the camera not in auto, wellllll, I wish I had just switched it as the ceremony pictures are all blurry (I explained centre point focus- just make sure we are in the middle!!) and I don't have any that I can use :(
 
jonoooo125 said:
Thanks, I like to think I'm a bit better than auto but if you take enough photos one eventually comes out ok. Funny story about modes though, I was once part of a christening and obviously I couldn't take pictures myself so a friend was adamant they could use the camera not in auto, wellllll, I wish I had just switched it as the ceremony pictures are all blurry (I explained centre point focus- just make sure we are in the middle!!) and I don't have any that I can use :(
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Stick it in Av and put ISO to 6400.

It may be a touch on the noisy side but it should eliminate most of the camera shake, as long as you stick to the widest aperture.
 
Haha, i had a similar experience . My band wanted some promo shots when we were in a studio years ago. I had borrowed a 300D and kit lens and our drummers dad came along to take the shots. 'He knows a bit about cameras' should have rung alarm bells but as i was just getting in to DSLR i didnt think about it.
He came along and fiddled with the camera, then we did the shots. All looked ok on the LCD but when i got home I realised he had put the lens in to MF mode, and after we moved position after the first few all 30+ shots were blurry. When i mentioned it to him he said he noticed that but thought it was just his eyes lol.
 
Raymond Lin said:
Stick it in Av and put ISO to 6400.

It may be a touch on the noisy side but it should eliminate most of the camera shake, as long as you stick to the widest aperture.
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It was in 2013 so I've let it go now, I learned my lesson that day, is set it up taking practice shots in Av and I can't remember the ISO off the top of my head, the main problem was she focussed everywhere else and changed settings half way through as well.

Next time, I'll superclamp it to a pew and set it off on time lapse, continuous light either side should make it fine ;)
 
Just wondering is anyone uses a fish eye lens on this camera (or any full frame). I had a Samyang 8mm f/2.8 for my Sony a600, and although i hardly used it i did find it a fun lens. Its very, very sharp and i had no issues with ti being MF, as i dont think i ever really needed to turn the focus ring.

I'm now thinking of getting the same lens for my 5D4. This would actualy be 12mm f/2.8 but will give the same FOV I believe. I appreciate its a fully manual lens.

Anyone else got one? I'm not sure i want to stump up for a zoom, and Ive tried the Sigma but the Samyang is supposedly a lot sharper.
 
I've used the Samyang 8mm 3.5 on my 5DM4. It's a lot of fun but note the image it produces is an oval, it does not cover the whole sensor.
 
It came just now so just under 4 days I think, from panamoz, now I think I'll have to read some instructions because it's a bit more complicated than the 6D. Instead of just a wifi option, it's inside a communications tab. Touch screen is good though
 
jj_glos said:
I can't see Canon ever doing anything about it either. I disable the lens correction stuff anyway so doesn't bother me.
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If anything was to be done it would be done by Sigma as it's Sigma who have to reverse engineer Canon.
 
Anyone know how to set the spot metering to the focus square in live view as the mk iii use to? All I am getting is a fixed circle in the centre which it metres from.
 
How do I check the shutter count, I've checked the files and they started at 100-8160 so I just want to make sure, it's an odd number to start at
 
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