Show us yer film shots then!

FishyFish said:
Thanks.

I've never really thought of Bolsover's pronunciation like that before. It's the River Erewash, a bit further south that usually makes me smile. :)
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Funny how off topic thoughts I have when triggered...Peter Sellers and Monty Python team or whoever always thought the word "Rhubarb" was so funny...carry on guys :D
 
Keeping with the 6x6 TLR type theme; 1970 Yashica 635 with orange filter and Ilford XP2 400.

img15_zpsopont0wf.jpg
 
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FishyFish said:
I had an orange filter with me on Saturday, but ended up not using it - mostly because I'm not quite sure how many stops of effect it will have on the exposure. I bought it months ago with the intent on using it to add contrast to B&W shots from the Lubitel, but have yet to even screw it on the camera.
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I struggle to remember but I think that it's:

Yellow = 1 stop
Orange = 2 stops
Red = 3 stops

No doubt someone will jump in if I'm wrong.
 
Another from the same set as the one I posted in the Harbours Challenge discussion thread; taken by my Dad in Concarneau, Brittany in June 1973 and scanned from a Kodachrome slide (probably Kodachrome 64). I just can't seem to get a scan from it that looks like the original colour-wise, even using post scan editing in Photoshop Elements.

Is it a difficult film to scan or is it just me? :confused: Between that and Photobucket being its usual frustrating pop-up ridden self, I'm not a very pleased badger! Mind you, that brand-new looking, bright yellow, Mk1 Ford Escort (Mexico?) parked on the quayside did cheer me up a bit.

 
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Photobucket is poo! If you're looking for a site that just hosts images, I'd recommend imgur.com or flickr :)
 
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I'll have a look at alternative image hosts when I get some spare time, it's just the thought of having to set up yet another account, password, etc. Meh!
 
FishyFish said:
I had an orange filter with me on Saturday, but ended up not using it - mostly because I'm not quite sure how many stops of effect it will have on the exposure. I bought it months ago with the intent on using it to add contrast to B&W shots from the Lubitel, but have yet to even screw it on the camera.
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I just held the filter over the CCD (or whatever it's called) on my Lunasix 3 light meter and took a reading like that, before fitting it to the camera. Not sure if this is the correct way of doing things but it seemed to work OK for me, just mind your fingers don't get in the way and add to the shading if you try this. :)
 
Mr Badger said:
I just held the filter over the CCD (or whatever it's called) on my Lunasix 3 light meter and took a reading like that, before fitting it to the camera. Not sure if this is the correct way of doing things but it seemed to work OK for me, just mind your fingers don't get in the way and add to the shading if you try this. :)
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Funnily enough, I did actually do something similar - I held the filter over my phone's lens though and used the light meter app to compare with / without values. It seemed to suggest a 1 1/3 stop difference, but as it was an unscientific test I decided not to chance it on the day.
 
Mr Badger said:
I just held the filter over the CCD (or whatever it's called) on my Lunasix 3 light meter and took a reading like that, before fitting it to the camera. Not sure if this is the correct way of doing things but it seemed to work OK for me, just mind your fingers don't get in the way and add to the shading if you try this. :)
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I can see no reason why it wouldn't work as it's no different to placing a filter infront of a lens on a camera with TTL metering and allowing the cameras meter to automatically make the adjustment
 
Depends on the metering cell. Two drawbacks to CdS meters that were never mentioned (as far as I remember) was that they had a memory - they couldn't adjust instananeously between the dazzing outdoors and the dark indoors, and needed a little time to adjust - and that they were over sensitive to red. Filter through a CdS meter by all means, but be prepared to be a stop under if the filter is red. Silicon Blue cells don't have this problem so far as I know.

The other thing to bear in mind is that filter factors are there to compensate for light lost, and a red filter will stop a greater proportion of the light if you're shooting outdoors out of direct sunlight (blue illumination from the sky) compared to indoors with yellow tungsten lights. Hence factors might be engraved on the filter, but aren't engraved in stone :D
 
StephenM said:
Depends on the metering cell. Two drawbacks to CdS meters that were never mentioned (as far as I remember) was that they had a memory - they couldn't adjust instananeously between the dazzing outdoors and the dark indoors, and needed a little time to adjust - and that they were over sensitive to red. Filter through a CdS meter by all means, but be prepared to be a stop under if the filter is red. Silicon Blue cells don't have this problem so far as I know.

The other thing to bear in mind is that filter factors are there to compensate for light lost, and a red filter will stop a greater proportion of the light if you're shooting outdoors out of direct sunlight (blue illumination from the sky) compared to indoors with yellow tungsten lights. Hence factors might be engraved on the filter, but aren't engraved in stone :D
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I just knew that you would come forward and inform us that all is not necessarily straight forward:crying: :p....... I was all set for a simple life with colour filters until you posted:bat::D:D

Never mind, I can now return to more studying of books, links and different filters to try and understand about it all.......as if I have nothing better to do:p:D
 
Asha said:
I just knew that you would come forward and inform us that all is not necessarily straight forward:crying: :p....... I was all set for a simple life with colour filters until you posted:bat::D:D

Never mind, I can now return to more studying of books, links and different filters to try and understand about it all.......as if I have nothing better to do:p:D
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Time for an advanced camera like the T70 :D just tried a sepia filter in front of the lens and exposure went down from f9.5 to f4 @1/60 sec
 
Asha said:
I am thoroughly enjoying viewing these posts Nige....Old architecture is right up my street.
Keep 'em coming
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Thanks. I have to say that the little ol' Lubitel has impressed me with these. It's still a bugger to focus and compose with, but apart from a little softness at the edges, I'm pretty happy with how these have turned out.
 
FishyFish said:
Thanks. I have to say that the little ol' Lubitel has impressed me with these. It's still a bugger to focus and compose with, but apart from a little softness at the edges, I'm pretty happy with how these have turned out.
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Well they're darned good imo

What developer and scanner did you use as they have fantastic tones and are as sharp, if not more so than what I,ve had out of my two TLRs ( Cord and 124G)
 
Asha said:
Well they're darned good imo

What developer and scanner did you use as they have fantastic tones and are as sharp, if not more so than what I,ve had out of my two TLRs ( Cord and 124G)
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Thanks Asha. They were processed at Peak Imaging, so I'm not sure about the developer used (although I was told they use Xtol for Rollei Retro 400s, so it may be the same for this - I know little of developer chemicals I'm afraid). They were scanned at home on my Epson V550 and I tweaked the histogram on most of them prior to the final scans to pull out detail. The scanner was set to the default "medium" unsharp mask level (I've tried scanning with this switched off in the past but, to be honest, I can see no difference in the results, so I just leave it as is). I then tweaked them in Lightroom (contrast, highlights, shadows, blacks & whites to varying degrees for each shot).
 
FishyFish said:
Thanks Asha. They were processed at Peak Imaging, so I'm not sure about the developer used (although I was told they use Xtol for Rollei Retro 400s, so it may be the same for this - I know little of developer chemicals I'm afraid). They were scanned at home on my Epson V550 and I tweaked the histogram on most of them prior to the final scans to pull out detail. The scanner was set to the default "medium" unsharp mask level (I've tried scanning with this switched off in the past but, to be honest, I can see no difference in the results, so I just leave it as is). I then tweaked them in Lightroom (contrast, highlights, shadows, blacks & whites to varying degrees for each shot).
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Never thought of just getting negs developed elsewhere!! I do enjoy the process though!! Can't recall how much it costs to develop the negs!
 
Sir SR said:
Never thought of just getting negs developed elsewhere!! I do enjoy the process though!! Can't recall how much it costs to develop the negs!
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It costs under six quid for negs only at Peak Imaging (135 or 120). I'm within walking distance so I don't have any postage costs to add to it, which makes it pretty cost effective given the quality of the service and results. They've been great on speed too - I can usually drop them off in the morning and collect them at lunchtime.
 
Mr Badger said:
I'll have a look at alternative image hosts when I get some spare time, it's just the thought of having to set up yet another account, password, etc. Meh!
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I was in that position but last year Photosucket finally proved too much to bear, and I revived my old flickr account. Very pleased so far!
 
FishyFish said:
Funnily enough, I did actually do something similar - I held the filter over my phone's lens though and used the light meter app to compare with / without values. It seemed to suggest a 1 1/3 stop difference, but as it was an unscientific test I decided not to chance it on the day.
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Or just don't worry about it (specially the 1/3 stop). It's negative film, just over-expose a bit...
 
FishyFish said:
Thanks Asha. They were processed at Peak Imaging, so I'm not sure about the developer used (although I was told they use Xtol for Rollei Retro 400s, so it may be the same for this - I know little of developer chemicals I'm afraid). They were scanned at home on my Epson V550 and I tweaked the histogram on most of them prior to the final scans to pull out detail. The scanner was set to the default "medium" unsharp mask level (I've tried scanning with this switched off in the past but, to be honest, I can see no difference in the results, so I just leave it as is). I then tweaked them in Lightroom (contrast, highlights, shadows, blacks & whites to varying degrees for each shot).
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Every time I've asked Peak about the chems for my black and white it's been XTOL and lovely! Filmdev told me they use XTOL too. Had me checking it out but looks like it's more suited to volume users...
 
ChrisR said:
Every time I've asked Peak about the chems for my black and white it's been XTOL and lovely! Filmdev told me they use XTOL too. Had me checking it out but looks like it's more suited to volume users...
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Looking at Peak's website, it looks like they use it for all their B&W processing:


XTOL Process for Black & White Films
We process all makes of black & white process films using Kodak X-Tol developer. All X-Tol process films are supplied in high quality clear sleeves.
 
I've saved my favourite shot of the roll until last. I don't know what others think, but I really like this one and think it's a nice example of what the Lubitel can achieve when used well (or, as is probably the case with me, through blind luck...).

Lubitel 166 U & Rollei Superpan 200


FILM - At Bolsover Castle by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr
 
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VG..I like castles and nominate you to represent F&C as chief castle shooter..unpaid of course ;)
 
You've got to love the detail in the images a 6x6 TLR can give, as even a budget one like the Lubitel 166 proves in those great looking castle shots. I haven't got a shot of a castle to join in with, but this is nearly the same size as a small one and it's got a bit of heraldry on the front! Once again, I think it's got that 'walk-in and see the detail' type feel to it. 1971 Yashica 635 TLR with Kodak Ektar 100.

 
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excalibur2 said:
You can take the place of a stone ball, man's head, deseased carcass.. and enjoy the ride :D A nice meet would be at Warwick castle, but might be awkward for anyone travelling by train.
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Warwick has a train station, trains from Brum and London... however, Warwick Castle charges £2,000 per person entry so I certainly wouldn't go. :(
 
ChrisR said:
Warwick has a train station, trains from Brum and London... however, Warwick Castle charges £2,000 per person entry so I certainly wouldn't go. :(
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Blimey, I could park in Brighton for 83 days for that!
 
No it's a typo, they only charge £1500 for pensioners
 
ChrisR said:
Warwick has a train station, trains from Brum and London... however, Warwick Castle charges £2,000 per person entry so I certainly wouldn't go. :(
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Cor when I went there last is was 1 and three farthings ;)
 
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