The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

Dave70D said:
Just having a practice on how to bounce my TTL350f Godox on the X-T3 + XF35mm f2. Can`t for the life of me get the TT685F to work on my X-H1 or get it to work with the Xpro transmitter.

Model Susie by Dave, on Flickr

Low Profile by Dave, on Flickr
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Where and what are you bouncing that from... you need to think of bounced light like any other, that is to say the direction it falls on the subject. you don't want it too flat if it is to be the main light.
 
Terrywoodenpic said:
Where and what are you bouncing that from... you need to think of bounced light like any other, that is to say the direction it falls on the subject. you don't want it too flat if it is to be the main light.
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The where is definitely important, if say it's an orange wall then expect to have an orange cast on your image. Even when shooting RAW this can really mess with your processing as it will affect HSL when tweaking those.
 
I have the grip on my X-T3 and often find myself accidentally catching the focus mode sector (M/C/S) button when shooting, has anyone else had this problem, and is there a way to temporarily lock this button?
 
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dave.hallett said:
You're definitely getting hang of this street malarky, Graham! Very nice work. And as you appear to have discovered, you can do it at times of the day when landscape photography would be a very tricky proposition at best...
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Thanks David appreciate it. I'm really enjoying the street stuff, thought I would give it a try as a side line to the landscapes but it's turning into the other way round at the minute.
 
I switched from LR to C1 when I got my Fuji camera in Jan just because I was told too due to the issues with Fiji’s native files. Although I was very comfortable with LR and had a pretty good workflow nailed down for Astro , hdr blends, pianos, noise reduction, etc I’ve found C1 quite a nice change. I’ve found in general with my Fuji images I don’t need to do much to them or even add extra sharpening in PS like I did before when using LR. I don’t even need to sharpen for screen like I did when exporting from LR.

Only been using C1 for 3 months, but I do miss LR adjustment brush ease of use and the hdr / pano blend option.
 
MCP84 said:
I switched from LR to C1 when I got my Fuji camera in Jan just because I was told too due to the issues with Fiji’s native files. Although I was very comfortable with LR and had a pretty good workflow nailed down for Astro , hdr blends, pianos, noise reduction, etc I’ve found C1 quite a nice change. I’ve found in general with my Fuji images I don’t need to do much to them or even add extra sharpening in PS like I did before when using LR. I don’t even need to sharpen for screen like I did when exporting from LR.

Only been using C1 for 3 months, but I do miss LR adjustment brush ease of use and the hdr / pano blend option.
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I've tried C1 and I can't see any improvement over the images that I put through LR. In my opinion, it's all hype which started with the early Trans X files, but the updates in the T2 & T3, plus updates by Adobe mean that Fuji files are fine in LR.

The big plus being that the workflow with LR is excellent, and having used it for years, I use it to catalogue my images too.
 
Jelster said:
I've tried C1 and I can't see any improvement over the images that I put through LR. In my opinion, it's all hype which started with the early Trans X files, but the updates in the T2 & T3, plus updates by Adobe mean that Fuji files are fine in LR.

The big plus being that the workflow with LR is excellent, and having used it for years, I use it to catalogue my images too.
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Oh really? Good thing I got C1 in a 50% off sale lol. If I was to edit my images in LR what software would I need to convert the RAF files so LR could read them?
 
MCP84 said:
Oh really? Good thing I got C1 in a 50% off sale lol. If I was to edit my images in LR what software would I need to convert the RAF files so LR could read them?
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I use LR "Classic CC" which can handle all X series raw files. Your other option is to download Fuji's own RAW converter which is on their web site which is pretty good for general raw conversions.


EDIT: Here's a link to the page.....

https://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/myfinepix_studio/rfc/index.html
 
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Terrywoodenpic said:
Where and what are you bouncing that from... you need to think of bounced light like any other, that is to say the direction it falls on the subject. you don't want it too flat if it is to be the main light.
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Cagey75 said:
The where is definitely important, if say it's an orange wall then expect to have an orange cast on your image. Even when shooting RAW this can really mess with your processing as it will affect HSL when tweaking those.
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I have never really tried flash on camera or off, I bounced it off the ceiling which is brown. I will practice more though.
 
I just did some test shots yesterday, had these supposed LR issues in mind when shooting so wanted to test the DR, sharpening etc .. first time using a Fuji camera in almost 2 years. Had not one issue ... I don't get what people are on about when they say Fuji RAF files are difficult to work with. But for some reason by default, LR had set sharpening to 40! why?? I wonder is that causing many people issues? why on earth would it push it that high for files that are known to have sharpen issues on the platform? Just keep the sharpening down below 25, use sharpen mask where necessary and don't stress on the pixel peeping so much. LR is working just fine for me now I have the defaults set how I like them. I will however give Cap One a trial, if I do see a significant improvement after working the same files, I may give it a longer time go. But it would have to be significant.

Dave70D said:
I have never really tried flash on camera or off, I bounced it off the ceiling which is brown. I will practice more though.
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It was more a head's up and general, I don't see any weird casts on your images ;) but it can very easily happen. Jusy aim the bounce for a white ceiling/wall where possible, or as close as possible to :)
 
Cagey75 said:
I just did some test shots yesterday, had these supposed LR issues in mind when shooting so wanted to test the DR, sharpening etc .. first time using a Fuji camera in almost 2 years. Had not one issue ... I don't get what people are on about when they say Fuji RAF files are difficult to work with. But for some reason by default, LR had set sharpening to 40! why?? I wonder is that causing many people issues? why on earth would it push it that high for files that are known to have sharpen issues on the platform? Just keep the sharpening down below 25, use sharpen mask where necessary and don't stress on the pixel peeping so much. LR is working just fine for me now I have the defaults set how I like them. I will however give Cap One a trial, if I do see a significant improvement after working the same files, I may give it a longer time go. But it would have to be significant.



It was more a head's up and general, I don't see any weird casts on your images ;) but it can very easily happen. Just aim the bounce for a white ceiling/wall where possible, or as close as possible to :)
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Thanks for the heads up Keith, the shoot next week is in an all white room but is small.
 
Cagey75 said:
I just did some test shots yesterday, had these supposed LR issues in mind when shooting so wanted to test the DR, sharpening etc .. first time using a Fuji camera in almost 2 years. Had not one issue ... I don't get what people are on about when they say Fuji RAF files are difficult to work with. But for some reason by default, LR had set sharpening to 40! why?? I wonder is that causing many people issues? why on earth would it push it that high for files that are known to have sharpen issues on the platform? Just keep the sharpening down below 25, use sharpen mask where necessary and don't stress on the pixel peeping so much. LR is working just fine for me now I have the defaults set how I like them. I will however give Cap One a trial, if I do see a significant improvement after working the same files, I may give it a longer time go. But it would have to be significant.
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If you push the sharpening, and also pixel peep above 100%, you're going to see artifacts on almost any brand, not just Fuji.
 
Jelster said:
If you push the sharpening, and also pixel peep above 100%, you're going to see artifacts on almost any brand, not just Fuji.
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Of course, but you will see them earlier with Fuji RAF files. With files from my G80 for example I won't see any such thing until past 45 on the sharpen slider. Not that they need that much, Panasonic files are very sharp from the off too, they're just a very different file type. I think LR just falls apart with Fuji files once you pass 25, luckily they don't require sharpening beyond that point if even that. Alt + push the masking to isolate sharpening subjects always works well for me, no matter the RAW file
 
yamahatdm900 said:
Hope the reconvey is progressing well.
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Thank you for asking, that's very kind of you and much appreciated.(y)

"Recovery is slower than anticipated but I'm getting a little stronger each day. I can now manage to walk as far as a barn at home (about 50 yards away) where my home studio is located, so that's encouraging as at least I can take a few snaps in there that gives me somethin' to do and amuse myself"

George.
 
Hello,

A few years ago I had some boxes stolen from my garage (the thief obviously thought they were full), and then subsequently returned by the powers that be.

The boxes are for the following;
XF 23mm f1.4
XF 35mm f1.4
XF 10-24mm
XF 27mm f2. 8
XE-2 with XF18-55mm lens.

The 23mm box is slightly tatty, all the others are either very good or excellent. The soft pouches are missing from the lens boxes, the inserts and other paperwork are there.
It was just a thought that if you had the equivalent lens/camera but did not have the box, it might add to sales value.
If interested drop me line and we'll work something out.



Also posted in the X-H1 thread.
 
That's nice and crisp George, I keep missing our resident Take Away patron so hats off to you for capturing this! That's quite a feat to take down a seagull too, Not exactly large birds, Sparrowhawks.

G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Fujigraph taken at Kent UK of a Sparrowhawk with a Seagull lunch.

X-T2 55-200mm Lens, 1/200th @ F4.5, ISO-1600, Handheld.

Sparrowhawk With Lunch-03298by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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Alan Clogwyn said:
That's nice and crisp George, I keep missing our resident Take Away patron so hats off to you for capturing this! That's quite a feat to take down a seagull too, Not exactly large birds, Sparrowhawks.
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Thank you fellow snapper, I sure do appreciate your reply.

George.
 
Just for sheer cute factor, here are some lambs from a couple of weeks ago. This was at the long end of the 100-400mm and cropped down to less than a quarter of the frame so I'm really pleased with the details captured:


12 Young by Andrea Thrussell, on Flickr
 
G.K.Jnr. said:
Just a simple Fujigraph taken at Kent UK of a Sparrowhawk with a Seagull lunch.

X-T2 55-200mm Lens, 1/200th @ F4.5, ISO-1600, Handheld.

Sparrowhawk With Lunch-03298by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

:ty: for looking., (y):fuji:

George.
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I'd love to have one of these guys visit the garden! Ok, he'll munch up all the other smaller birds and drive the cat nuts! but man, I'd get some cool photos :D
 
Manxmaid said:
Just for sheer cute factor, here are some lambs from a couple of weeks ago. This was at the long end of the 100-400mm and cropped down to less than a quarter of the frame so I'm really pleased with the details captured:


12 Young by Andrea Thrussell, on Flickr
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How are you finding the 100-400? It’s on my eventual wish list. I shot a lot of wildlife before I moved to Fuji so would like to get back into it eventually. I’ve seen reviews on YouTube but they are done by people that don’t know the first thing of wildlife photography.
 
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