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I'd also throw Will you - Hazel O'Conner out thereThank you Jason. Think I`ll still with Baker Street though
The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread
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Honestly, these cheapo no name rip offs of the likes of BR are every bit as good for a fraction of the money: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camera-Sho...ords=BLACK+RAPID+SPORT&qid=1570284541&sr=8-15
I had the BR Sport when I shot FF dslr, very good strap, tough as you'd ever need, you always felt like your gear was safe hanging on your hip, but if I buy another it'll be one of the cheap ones. I've seen people use them and they felt every bit as tough.
Fuji Dave
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I'd also throw Will you - Hazel O'Conner out there
Yes that was a cracker too.
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Hi Donna;
I use 'Footprint' handmade leather straps, simply brilliant, I've two of them and used them for years, I believe there's a choice of around 14 different colours, handmade by Clive in the UK, excellent quality and price.
Highly recommended..!! Hope this helps.
Link here;
https://en-gb.facebook.com/footprintcustomstraps/
Regards;
Peter
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Thanks, it is one of my favs, and she is a lovely dog, although a bit highly strung. Belongs to my old next door neighbour before we shipped out of London.
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I'm wondering if the 16-55 f2.8 may be a better choice, which will mean I have decent zooms from 10mm to 560mm (inc the 1.4TC), or just settle for either the 16 or 23 f1.4.
Not sure of the value of the T2's. One has a few marks on it as it's been "used" the other has had an L bracket on it for most of its life so it's been pretty well protected. I have a grip as well.
Hello Donna, having tried one or two straps over the years I now use the Peak Design Slide straps on my X-T3 and X-H1. I find them to be supremely comfortable, easy to adjust and the option to have a sliding strap, or one that is 'fixed' by turning it over onto the rubberised half, is excellent. They are not cumbersome as some have been that I have used in the past.
They distribute weight superbly and either body, with the 100-400mm and their respective battery grips fitted with the connector and swivel plate, are a pleasure to use and raise to the eye quickly from the side carrying position. When I am using the body without the battery grips and lighter lenses I have the option of round the neck or at the side.
Either way is very comfortable, and a recent trip to the battlefields of Gallipoli through some very inhospitable terrain with both cameras and straps criss-crossed, was effortless.
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I had the same problem with my T2. Originally had a regular "Slide", and now use a Slide Lite, which IMO siuits the T2 much better.
https://www.peakdesign.com/products/slide-lite
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Trouble is, other reviews say the complete opposite.
https://jonasraskphotography.com/2019/07/18/fujinon-xf-16-80mm-f-4-r-ois-wr-first-look-preview/
"... the XF16-80mm f/4 does seem to work its absolute best from around 50-80mm. Image quality in this range is incredible."
https://petapixel.com/2019/10/04/fu...ois-wr-the-ultimate-all-around-lens-for-fuji/
"On this lens, the sharpness from 40-80mm is top notch, and I found myself using the telephoto range of this lens more so than the wide end."
Sample variation? I don't think I have a need for it, but as a single zoom for travel photography, it seems a decent choice if you don't need anything really wide or long.
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DSCF1524 copy by rick phillips, on Flickr
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Could very well be, some had the same issues with the 18-55 when it was first released, with some reviewers hailing it as the best 'kit lens' ever and other saying it was mediocre at best. All I know is Christopher is always very fair and he runs the same tests time and again no matter the make or model of lens. I wouldn't go by Petapixel, I've never found them to be a good source tbh, some of their reviews have been head scratchers in the past. I don't know much about the other site. But in the video review I posted you can clearly see the softening at 50mm and 80mm
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The 16-55 is an excellent zoom, I probably would have kept mine if had better close focusing and magnification. That's something I always look to in a lens as I love close up photography in general. But if you're not fussed about this there's little to fault with the lens. I found it sharp as I'd ever need at 2.8 right through the focal range. I just really wanted to try out the 16 1.4, and there's no way I could have both. I'm finding that and the 50F2 are pretty much all i need, planning on adding a cheap tele and I want some form of decent macro too. But neither are priority for the moment ... too many bills to pay! :/
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UKCameraStore have 50-230 XC at just over £200 new, incl delivery (not sure about Ireland though) and VAT, sorry!
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Fuji XF50-230mm from E-infinity is £145 in black, or £149 in silver, free postage with 12 months warranty.
https://www.e-infin.com/uk/item/3237/fujifilm_xc_50-230mm_f/4.5-6.7_ois_ii_lens_(black)
https://www.e-infin.com/uk/item/3237/fujifilm_xc_50-230mm_f/4.5-6.7_ois_ii_lens_(black)
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Playing with stacking again (40 frames
T2 80mm @f4
Three Headed Thing by Paulie-W, on Flickr
“Excellent” Fujigraph, and very nicely presented.
George.
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Hadn't played with the camera for about a week, so focussed on my dog to try a couple of settings
X-T3 + Tamron 100-400
X-T3 + Tamron 100-400
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The f2 series of lenses have no real interest to me, when I know there is a much wider version available. Likewise, 50mm on a 1.5 crop is neither wide enough or long enough for my taste. 12-16 & 20-24 is where I am on the 10-24, I have 50mm on the 50-140 if I need it, and I love the 16 & 35 f1.4 models, so the 23 seems it would "fit" in my arsenal.
I have the tubes if I want to do anything close up, which perform excellently.
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Is that a grey import?UKCameraStore have 50-230 XC at just over £200 new, incl delivery (not sure about Ireland though) and VAT, sorry!
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The 50F2 is akin to a 75mm on FF, perfect for portraiture but also useful for general shooting, I had the 35F2 and though it's a nice lens I much prefer the 50mm. I also had the 35 1.4, I really liked that lens too and I was close to getting one instead of the 50mm. I have to admit I use the 16mm much more often though, it's opened up a bit of a new world for me. But as I've posted here over the past few pages, I've used the 50 for portraits, macro [with a Raynox attached] and some nice close ups - I do wish it could get a bit closer but it's not bad and has nice bokeh. It also seems to have zero issues with CA and it is apparently one of Fuji's sharpest tested lenses, right up there with the 90mm. But of course, if I could have the 50-140, no question I'd prefer that lens!
I would like to try the 23mm 1.4 at some point too, bit close to the 16 so I don't know if I'd keep both
That really is a steal, I might go for that
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I saw on another forum someone state that the 16mm 1.4 wasn't all that sharp and was an over-rated lens .... Oh how I laughed ...
16mm @F2
DSCF4108 by K G, on Flickr
It's almost as sharp at 1.4 but of course you get less in focus, you can see the fall off here at the end of the fern, at 2.8 the whole plant would have been tack
A few others from this fun lens
Chopper by K G, on Flickr
Golden October by K G, on Flickr
This one's at 1.4, check the bokeh, pretty sweet
DSCF4102 by K G, on Flickr
16mm @F2
DSCF4108 by K G, on FlickrIt's almost as sharp at 1.4 but of course you get less in focus, you can see the fall off here at the end of the fern, at 2.8 the whole plant would have been tack
A few others from this fun lens
Chopper by K G, on FlickrGolden October by K G, on FlickrThis one's at 1.4, check the bokeh, pretty sweet
DSCF4102 by K G, on Flickr
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A few photos from a recent holiday to Pembrokeshire (before the weather turned):
Owen on Freshwater West Beach by Annoyingly, this, like quite a few others I've taken recently was slightly OOF. I'm not sure if it is my technique, my kit, or how I've set it up. I never had this problem with the very basic AF on my Canon 5D, so I'm hoping it is more to do with how I've set up my X-T2 (with back button focus).
Tenby Harbour by Lewis Craik, on Flickrs://www.flickr.com/photos/lewiscraik/]Lewis Craik[/url], on Flickr
Henry by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
And another of my son on his balance bike - this was pretty much the shot from the session that was in focus, I had moved from zone to point AF and swapped between lenses (23mmf2 and 18-55 kit lens) to try and narrow down the issues.
Channelling the Denim Destroyer for #SuperSaturday by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Owen on Freshwater West Beach by Annoyingly, this, like quite a few others I've taken recently was slightly OOF. I'm not sure if it is my technique, my kit, or how I've set it up. I never had this problem with the very basic AF on my Canon 5D, so I'm hoping it is more to do with how I've set up my X-T2 (with back button focus).
Tenby Harbour by Lewis Craik, on Flickrs://www.flickr.com/photos/lewiscraik/]Lewis Craik[/url], on FlickrHenry by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
And another of my son on his balance bike - this was pretty much the shot from the session that was in focus, I had moved from zone to point AF and swapped between lenses (23mmf2 and 18-55 kit lens) to try and narrow down the issues.
Channelling the Denim Destroyer for #SuperSaturday by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
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A few photos from a recent holiday to Pembrokeshire (before the weather turned):
Owen on Freshwater West Beach by Annoyingly, this, like quite a few others I've taken recently was slightly OOF. I'm not sure if it is my technique, my kit, or how I've set it up. I never had this problem with the very basic AF on my Canon 5D, so I'm hoping it is more to do with how I've set up my X-T2 (with back button focus).
Henry by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
And another of my son on his balance bike - this was pretty much the shot from the session that was in focus, I had moved from zone to point AF and swapped between lenses (23mmf2 and 18-55 kit lens) to try and narrow down the issues.
I only ever use single point focus, and usually I'm on the smallest point possible, I find it the most accurate. I would only ever switch to zone if I was tracking something in C-AF tbh. For moving kids I guess zone might make sense, but I would give Face/eye detect a try too
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I agree, that is where the T3 beats the H1 with face and eye detection, and to be fair AF in general. But fr the most part the H1 is more than capable
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I agree, that is where the T3 beats the H1 with face and eye detection, and to be fair AF in general. But fr the most part the H1 is more than capable
I used Face and eye detect on the H1 for a 12th birthday party last week and it was keeping up fine, every now and then it would pick up imaginary faces in the background which is annoying so i was switching back to single point on those occasions. I would imagine the T3 is much better in this regard, never used one but fro what I've seen and heard. Still ... no way I'd give up my H1 for a T3, not a chance
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I no way I'd give up my H1 for a T3, not a chance
I'd agree with that, I am fortunate enough to have both, so that's not an issue. But.. given the choice now, I'd go H1.
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I am going to experiment a bit more single focus point, and maybe moving AF back to the shutter button. I have face/eye detect on - and even shoot on CL, rather than CH, to keep it available during bursts.
I've just remembered that I still had the balance bike set on the memory card, so had a quick flick through to see if face detect had worked on the one I posted above - it hadn't! Looking through, all the ones with face detect are slightly OOF.
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No question if I could have a second camera it would be a T3, it would be the back up though. The H1 is just so good, it's almost my ideal camera. There's a few things I would change but they're minor really. Better touch screen, shift that Q button elsewhere, quicker preview/start-up - it can be a bit sluggish to get back to life after previewing images in particular, better Face and eye detect and well, who would say no to a bump in res? I'm talking H2 here really aren't I?
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Is your camera running the latest FW? I've found on the H1 that it'll pick up faces most of the time, it'll show in the previews. They are pretty much the same camera bar build so I wonder why you're having this issue
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I dabble with video here and there, just basic family stuff but I do edit the videos in software. If you have a decent editing suite, then I would shoot with Eterna, it's very good for post corrections, it's no exactly a flat log file but many reviewers say it's almost as good, it's much easier to work with. Look for some free Luts online to try out with it.
I have my video settings at 4K, 24p, 200mb, and shoot at 1/48 - if you're shooting in brighter conditions consider getting a decent ND filter or you're going to have to stop down a lot for good exposure. Or if you simply want to shoot wide open for some nice blurred backdrops you will need an ND filter.
Shooting 4K 200mb can be a bit of a strain on your hardware but the advice I got was that it's worth it, you can really push the files in post when colour correcting. You can drop down to 100mbs or even 50 if you don't plan on correcting much, or even just switch to 1080p. It's good enough for casual video. But I'd stick to 24p, it is the most 'cinematic' looking frame rate, 30 or 60 can look a little 'clinical'
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Thanks, what software do you use?
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Nothing fancy, Power Director 16, I think they're at 18 now. The version I have was actually given away free with one of the photography mags a couple months back! I'm sure it can be found about online for cheap ... or even free. It's a simple enough program, as i don't do much video I don't want anything overly complex. Just something that allows basic editing, music overlay, adding LUTS etc
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No idea, probably as it comes with 2 year warranty return to dealer.
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I’m pretty sure it is running the latest firmware, but will double check.
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Sadly out of focus. Shot with tiny led light in one hand, camera in the other, 23mm lens I think. 
Fuji Dave
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The lenses that I really do love for my jazz shots are, the XF50mm f2 XF35mm f2 XF16mm f1.4 ( when I do use the 16mm ) plus I will keep the 90mm f2. As at the moment I`m thinking of getting rid of my 16-55mm as hardly use it now. At the moment I would not mind having the XF27mm on my X-E3.
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I'm tempted by the 50 f2 as an additional lens for whichever camera I have in my car, I'm considering selling the 100-400 as a think I have only taken about 20 shots with it in the last 6 months.
Fuji Dave
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Two things I now know I was stupid with was, getting rid of the XF50mm f2 first time and then buying the XF16-55mm. As I want the XF27mm for just staying on my X-E3 I know it will be the 16-55mm that goes. I know it will be stupid, but if Jessops give me enough then I will do a straight swap I know I could get more on here selling the 16-55mm but I like to help my local shop.
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I'm probably selling my 50mm f/2 soon. It's a great lens but I don't use it a lot, and often find myself using a vintage minolta 50mm instead (which is less sharp, much more spherical aberration and manual focus only... But I do prefer it for what I do).
The 50mm f2 is furiously sharp. If you centre a portrait you'll reduce sharpening on a raw. It's really nice for landscapes, but not quite long enough for me - I'd prefer the 90mm I think, but even that isn't very long.
Basically, I'd recommend it as a lens. It shoots fairly close too, which is really nice and probably my favourite use for it.