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I'd also throw Will you - Hazel O'Conner out thereThank you Jason. Think I`ll still with Baker Street though
I'd also throw Will you - Hazel O'Conner out thereThank you Jason. Think I`ll still with Baker Street though
Any recommendations for camera strap for an X-T3 - I currently use a wide shoulder strap, which was on my 5D, but is quite cumbersome. Any suggestions? I've looked at the Black Rapid buy boy they are quite pricey, is there equivalent at a better price?
I'd also throw Will you - Hazel O'Conner out there
Hi Donna;Any recommendations for camera strap for an X-T3 - I currently use a wide shoulder strap, which was on my 5D, but is quite cumbersome. Any suggestions? I've looked at the Black Rapid buy boy they are quite pricey, is there equivalent at a better price?
Absolute belter of a shot.
If you look at the review of the 16-80 I posted earlier, it's not very impressive. It's not the sharpest from 50-80mm, I would go for the 18-55 and use the savings on a nice prime for your wife. On the cameras, that's more a personal preference I think. Do you ever feel you need IBIS when shooting the primes? If you get the H1 would this be the camera your wife might use now and then? she might not like the size and weight
Any recommendations for camera strap for an X-T3 - I currently use a wide shoulder strap, which was on my 5D, but is quite cumbersome. Any suggestions? I've looked at the Black Rapid buy boy they are quite pricey, is there equivalent at a better price?
Any recommendations for camera strap for an X-T3 - I currently use a wide shoulder strap, which was on my 5D, but is quite cumbersome. Any suggestions? I've looked at the Black Rapid buy boy they are quite pricey, is there equivalent at a better price?
If you look at the review of the 16-80 I posted earlier, it's not very impressive. It's not the sharpest from 50-80mm
Trouble is, other reviews say the complete opposite.
https://jonasraskphotography.com/2019/07/18/fujinon-xf-16-80mm-f-4-r-ois-wr-first-look-preview/
"... the XF16-80mm f/4 does seem to work its absolute best from around 50-80mm. Image quality in this range is incredible."
https://petapixel.com/2019/10/04/fu...ois-wr-the-ultimate-all-around-lens-for-fuji/
"On this lens, the sharpness from 40-80mm is top notch, and I found myself using the telephoto range of this lens more so than the wide end."
Sample variation? I don't think I have a need for it, but as a single zoom for travel photography, it seems a decent choice if you don't need anything really wide or long.
I'm wondering if the 16-55 f2.8 may be a better choice, which will mean I have decent zooms from 10mm to 560mm (inc the 1.4TC), or just settle for either the 16 or 23 f1.4.
Not sure of the value of the T2's. One has a few marks on it as it's been "used" the other has had an L bracket on it for most of its life so it's been pretty well protected. I have a grip as well.
UKCameraStore have 50-230 XC at just over £200 new, incl delivery (not sure about Ireland though) and VAT, sorry!The 16-55 is an excellent zoom, I probably would have kept mine if had better close focusing and magnification. That's something I always look to in a lens as I love close up photography in general. But if you're not fussed about this there's little to fault with the lens. I found it sharp as I'd ever need at 2.8 right through the focal range. I just really wanted to try out the 16 1.4, and there's no way I could have both. I'm finding that and the 50F2 are pretty much all i need, planning on adding a cheap tele and I want some form of decent macro too. But neither are priority for the moment ... too many bills to pay! :/
Playing with stacking again (40 frames ) ... Found these seed heads in the garden, and they looked like a pretty decent subject to me.
T2 80mm @f4
Three Headed Thing by Paulie-W, on Flickr
I'm finding that and the 50F2 are pretty much all i need, planning on adding a cheap tele and I want some form of decent macro too. But neither are priority for the moment ... too many bills to pay! :/
Is that a grey import?UKCameraStore have 50-230 XC at just over £200 new, incl delivery (not sure about Ireland though) and VAT, sorry!
The f2 series of lenses have no real interest to me, when I know there is a much wider version available. Likewise, 50mm on a 1.5 crop is neither wide enough or long enough for my taste. 12-16 & 20-24 is where I am on the 10-24, I have 50mm on the 50-140 if I need it, and I love the 16 & 35 f1.4 models, so the 23 seems it would "fit" in my arsenal.
I have the tubes if I want to do anything close up, which perform excellently.
Fuji XF50-230mm from E-infinity is £145 in black, or £149 in silver, free postage with 12 months warranty.
https://www.e-infin.com/uk/item/3237/fujifilm_xc_50-230mm_f/4.5-6.7_ois_ii_lens_(black)
A few photos from a recent holiday to Pembrokeshire (before the weather turned):
Owen on Freshwater West Beach by Annoyingly, this, like quite a few others I've taken recently was slightly OOF. I'm not sure if it is my technique, my kit, or how I've set it up. I never had this problem with the very basic AF on my Canon 5D, so I'm hoping it is more to do with how I've set up my X-T2 (with back button focus).
Tenby Harbour by Lewis Craik, on Flickrs://www.flickr.com/photos/lewiscraik/]Lewis Craik[/url], on Flickr
Henry by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
And another of my son on his balance bike - this was pretty much the shot from the session that was in focus, I had moved from zone to point AF and swapped between lenses (23mmf2 and 18-55 kit lens) to try and narrow down the issues.
Channelling the Denim Destroyer for #SuperSaturday by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
I agree, that is where the T3 beats the H1 with face and eye detection, and to be fair AF in general. But fr the most part the H1 is more than capableI only ever use single point focus, and usually I'm on the smallest point possible, I find it the most accurate. I would only ever switch to zone if I was tracking something in C-AF tbh. For moving kids I guess zone might make sense, but I would give Face/eye detect a try too
I agree, that is where the T3 beats the H1 with face and eye detection, and to be fair AF in general. But fr the most part the H1 is more than capable
I no way I'd give up my H1 for a T3, not a chance
I am going to experiment a bit more single focus point, and maybe moving AF back to the shutter button. I have face/eye detect on - and even shoot on CL, rather than CH, to keep it available during bursts.I only ever use single point focus, and usually I'm on the smallest point possible, I find it the most accurate. I would only ever switch to zone if I was tracking something in C-AF tbh. For moving kids I guess zone might make sense, but I would give Face/eye detect a try too
I'd agree with that, I am fortunate to have both, so that's not an issue. But.. given the choice now, I'd go H1.
I am going to experiment a bit more single focus point, and maybe moving AF back to the shutter button. I have face/eye detect on - and even shoot on CL, rather than CH, to keep it available during bursts.
I've just remembered that I still had the balance bike set on the memory card, so had a quick flick through to see if face detect had worked on the one I posted above - it hadn't! Looking through, all the ones with face detect are slightly OOF.
How many people are using their Fuji's for video? I am looking to get into video and have bought an Atomos Shinobi to help out with this (and it is really useful for stills too) I just wondered if anyone has any tips?
“Excellent” Fujigraph, and very nicely presented.
George.
I dabble with video here and there, just basic family stuff but I do edit the videos in software. If you have a decent editing suite, then I would shoot with Eterna, it's very good for post corrections, it's no exactly a flat log file but many reviewers say it's almost as good, it's much easier to work with. Look for some free Luts online to try out with it.
I have my video settings at 4K, 24p, 200mb, and shoot at 1/48 - if you're shooting in brighter conditions consider getting a decent ND filter or you're going to have to stop down a lot for good exposure. Or if you simply want to shoot wide open for some nice blurred backdrops you will need an ND filter.
Shooting 4K 200mb can be a bit of a strain on your hardware but the advice I got was that it's worth it, you can really push the files in post when colour correcting. You can drop down to 100mbs or even 50 if you don't plan on correcting much, or even just switch to 1080p. It's good enough for casual video. But I'd stick to 24p, it is the most 'cinematic' looking frame rate, 30 or 60 can look a little 'clinical'
Thanks, what software do you use?
No idea, probably as it comes with 2 year warranty return to dealer.Is that a grey import?
I’m pretty sure it is running the latest firmware, but will double check.Is your camera running the latest FW? I've found on the H1 that it'll pick up faces most of the time, it'll show in the previews. They are pretty much the same camera bar build so I wonder why you're having this issue
The 16-55 is an excellent zoom, I probably would have kept mine if had better close focusing and magnification. That's something I always look to in a lens as I love close up photography in general. But if you're not fussed about this there's little to fault with the lens. I found it sharp as I'd ever need at 2.8 right through the focal range. I just really wanted to try out the 16 1.4, and there's no way I could have both. I'm finding that and the 50F2 are pretty much all i need, planning on adding a cheap tele and I want some form of decent macro too. But neither are priority for the moment ... too many bills to pay! :/
I'm tempted by the 50 f2 as an additional lens for whichever camera I have in my car, I'm considering selling the 100-400 as a think I have only taken about 20 shots with it in the last 6 months.The lenses that I really do love for my jazz shots are, the XF50mm f2 XF35mm f2 XF16mm f1.4 ( when I do use the 16mm ) plus I will keep the 90mm f2. As at the moment I`m thinking of getting rid of my 16-55mm as hardly use it now. At the moment I would not mind having the XF27mm on my X-E3.
I'm tempted by the 50 f2 as an additional lens for whichever camera I have in my car, I'm considering selling the 100-400 as a think I have only taken about 20 shots with it in the last 6 months.
I'm tempted by the 50 f2 as an additional lens for whichever camera I have in my car, I'm considering selling the 100-400 as a think I have only taken about 20 shots with it in the last 6 months.