I've actually been looking at the Fuji website today. I do not need another camera. I have sufficient, and need to consider space.X-T4 in Silver arrived today![]()
I've actually been looking at the Fuji website today. I do not need another camera. I have sufficient, and need to consider space.
But by Christ do they look good....
It's very worn looking and the saddles are all rusty - I hope it was cheap.I have zero GAS for new camera gears lately because there is no opportunity to photograph what I usually do. So bought a Fender Strat instead.
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Tell me about it, they even lost the back cover!It's very worn looking and the saddles are all rusty - I hope it was cheap.![]()
Ha, J20 too?
Narh.....I did think about it but I didn't want to spend that much, this is everything i want from a CS but the sticker. Nitro lacquer, RW board, vintage tuners, custom shop 69 pickups, satin neck, relic, checking etc. It's a 2008 MIM Roadworn series. It weights under 7lbs.Is that a custom shop relic? Hopefully she plays nicely
I've been a strat player from '90 when I bought my MIJ F strat until just a couple of years ago, when suddenly a Les Paul made complete sense and it's almost all I use live for non-slide now. At home I have a strat laying around in the livingroom to pick up & noodle, but when I go out the Tokai comes with me.
I did see a G&L ASAT Tribute last week for good money that really tempted me, but I play so little it's impossible to justify.
Yes! Not mine actually, I stick to bass and acoustic - belongs to the OH - you must have the same taste in sound... that elusive sound.... not to mention playability etc.Ha, J20 too?![]()
Nice. I have a featherwieght MIM here (the one in the livingroom) that's like that: veneer RW board, BG pickups, Wilkinson tuners, Steel block trem, but the wear is all from use (was in bits when I got it, and it's not pretty under the guard). Pretty sure it's a squier with the little circular squier logo that went on the top of the headstock sanded off, but it plays fine. I really need to get the old MIJ refretted as it's almost unplayable, but it's a maple neck, and that is expensive/involves butchery.Narh.....I did think about it but I didn't want to spend that much, this is everything i want from a CS but the sticker. Nitro lacquer, RW board, vintage tuners, custom shop 69 pickups, rekic, checking etc. It's a 2008 MIM Roadworn series. It weights under 7lbs.
When you start building amps to try to find that sound, as well as swapping out not just speakers, but positioning different sized bits of foam inside the cab and annealing valves in liquid nitrogen (seriously) THAT'S when you know you're looking for that elusive sound.that elusive sound....
We must do, they are very good together.Yes! Not mine actually, I stick to bass and acoustic - belongs to the OH - you must have the same taste in sound... that elusive sound.... not to mention playability etc.
This has a real RW board, later years they swapped to Pau Ferro but the early ones like mine is RW. The guitar itself is Custom Shop designed but made in Mexico. It's quite expensive for a MIM guitar actually, current Vintera models are about £600, something like mine goes for about £800+ on eBay, they were around £1k new before they were discontinued in 2018.Nice. I have a featherwieght MIM here (the one in the livingroom) that's like that: veneer RW board, BG pickups, Wilkinson tuners, Steel block trem, but the wear is all from use (was in bits when I got it, and it's not pretty under the guard). Pretty sure it's a squier with the little circular squier logo that went on the top of the headstock sanded off, but it plays fine. I really need to get the old MIJ refretted as it's almost unplayable, but it's a maple neck, and that is expensive/involves butchery.
You have a bad caseWhen you start building amps to try to find that sound, as well as swapping out not just speakers, but positioning different sized bits of foam inside the cab and annealing valves in liquid nitrogen (seriously) THAT'S when you know you're looking for that elusive sound.![]()
I was moderate - used to be involved on 18watt.com, and the debates over tonal qualities of different caps and resistors were amazing, however they would often produce recordings where it was possible to hear the difference (i.e. Zoso caps - expensive - sounded muddy at first, but after 24 hours 'burn in' were excellent).You have a bad case
My son has taken up playing bass and I was shocked at the difference our fingers made to the sound, despite exactly the same guitar and amp setup. I had read it made a difference but I was utterly amazed. His sound was far more muddy.
Sorry this is slightly off the GAS photography topic.
I think every hobby starts out around a couple of hundred pounds then can get to £5k very fast. A boutique tube amp is about £2k, and a high end guitar is £2k+ too, and we haven't talk about pedals or recording equipment. You can easily drop £10k on a few guitars, amps, pedals.My other passion in long distance rifle shooting, ie 1200m or more. It's a shame you can't get custom built cameras like you can rifles..!!
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This was built for me and set me back around £4000, and another £1500 for the scope. Nothing good comes cheap..![]()
I've never spent that kind of money TBH. The most expensive guitar I ever bought was either a JJ goldtop (£650 new at a show) or a Heritage H150CM bought used from the US. The strat was £215 in 1989. My AC30 was bought used for £275 in 1977 and that's probably the closest I've ever had to a £1000+ equivalent amp. Main amp these days is a Pignose G40V (like a bassman in a tiny cab with a 10" speaker) with an eminence Ragin Cajun speaker and slightly non-stock valves (12AT7 in V1 IIRC). I do like pedals (really need to flog some) but happy to use budget Chinese stuff that mostly sounds good - having the right speaker makes an enormous difference to how good or bad an overdrive sounds.I think every hobby starts out around a couple of hundred pounds then can get to £5k very fast. A boutique tube amp is about £2k, and a high end guitar is £2k+ too, and we haven't talk about pedals or recording equipment. You can easily drop £10k on a few guitars, amps, pedals.
Indeed.. my first shotgun cost me all of £150.00. Move it on 50+ years and I have two that I could sell for £20k each, another two that would probably, on a good day, fetch £7-9k each. I have a friend who is a gunsmith and makes beautifully crafted English shotguns. The starting, entry level price.... £25,000..!! Order a Purdey or a Ho;lland & Holland and you'll wait a year for it to be made and you'll have paid over £90,000..I think every hobby starts out around a couple of hundred pounds then can get to £5k very fast. A boutique tube amp is about £2k, and a high end guitar is £2k+ too, and we haven't talk about pedals or recording equipment. You can easily drop £10k on a few guitars, amps, pedals.
You can get good sound on any level, like cameras, you can get good photos with any camera. What I realise is that the better I am at something, the less gear I need. I fool myself thinking I need all this stuff, it makes me a better guitar player (it does not) but I buy it anyway....with cameras I am much more confident in my abilities and I can work with what I've got. One time my 24-70 died and I had to make do with a 16-35/2.8, 50mm and 85mm as my other lenses in the focal length that I mostly shot I. So I put on the 16-35 and worked with that, it's a bit like a guitarist who breaks a string mid-song and need to work around finishing by hitting the same note on a different part of the neck.I've never spent that kind of money TBH. The most expensive guitar I ever bought was either a JJ goldtop (£650 new at a show) or a Heritage H150CM bought used from the US. The strat was £215 in 1989. My AC30 was bought used for £275 in 1977 and that's probably the closest I've ever had to a £1000+ equivalent amp. Main amp these days is a Pignose G40V (like a bassman in a tiny cab with a 10" speaker) with an eminence Ragin Cajun speaker and slightly non-stock valves (12AT7 in V1 IIRC). I do like pedals (really need to flog some) but happy to use budget Chinese stuff that mostly sounds good - having the right speaker makes an enormous difference to how good or bad an overdrive sounds.
It's been fun trying guitars, but I'm down to 10 or so electrics, 3 acoustics and 3 basses these days. It took 20 years to realise that there are great guitars at all price points, and when I play electric slide it's with a First Act Lola that I paid £35 for.
A 1960's Epiphone would be quite valuable these days lolIndeed.. my first shotgun cost me all of £150.00. Move it on 50+ years and I have two that I could sell for £20k each, another two that would probably, on a good day, fetch £7-9k each. I have a friend who is a gunsmith and makes beautifully crafted English shotguns. The starting, entry level price.... £25,000..!! Order a Purdey or a Ho;lland & Holland and you'll wait a year for it to be made and you'll have paid over £90,000..
Perhaps we're all better off with cap guns, Kodak Brownies and a 1960's Epiphone..!! LOL
1200m is insane! I've only ever fired on a 100/200m range. Was given a nice Krupp rifle to shoot with. Felt very well balanced, seemed to suit me very well (better than a left handed rifle I was also given to try, seeing as I'm a southpaw). Asked how much such a rifle would cost to buy (as I was considering the possibility of moving to Norway, and taking up shooting as an activity), and was told it would be around 30,000 Norwegian Kroner (about £3000 at the time, so about £5,700 in today's money). Without the scope.This was built for me and set me back around £4000, and another £1500 for the scope. Nothing good comes cheap..
I don't get that. It's a shotgun. You can get one for a monkey, down the old Dog and Duck. And they'll kindly shorten it for you...Indeed.. my first shotgun cost me all of £150.00. Move it on 50+ years and I have two that I could sell for £20k each, another two that would probably, on a good day, fetch £7-9k each. I have a friend who is a gunsmith and makes beautifully crafted English shotguns. The starting, entry level price.... £25,000..!! Order a Purdey or a Ho;lland & Holland and you'll wait a year for it to be made and you'll have paid over £90,000..
I am the poster boy for excess gear, I have a personality to get the best gear I can afford for pretty much anything. I like getting something that lasts and something that holds value (within reason). I don’t mind spending a little if I know in the long run will be cheaper to own. With cameras I buy the top end lenses because it saves me upgrading up and lose money. With guitars…I am a little embarrassed to say that my first guitar was a Taylor T5and my first full electric was a PRS Custom 24 (not SE, but full fat USA, with a 10-top). I started learning late so I was earning, with not much outgoing and I was able to afford them. In terms of investment, I bought them both at sale, the Taylor actually sells for 10% than I paid and the PRS I “only” paid £1300 and it was new.That is big money @ManxTom! Makes photography seem far less of a financial commitment.
Very true what you say @Raymond Lin. The better you get, the less some things matter, but it can be easier to play a more expensive instrument e.g better action, holds it's tuning etc. Also there is the 'fun' factor and the pleasure of playing a beautiful instrument. My first bass was £40 and had a horrendous action and weight balance. I ended up swapping it for an Olympus XA2 - a sign of what was to come
@ancient_mariner I have 2 basses left now - a Warwick Jazz and a Musicman Sterling. Both sound massively different depending on where you pluck. Much prefer the sound of the Sterling, but it's a heavy beast and unless I'm gig fit, it can make my back ache.
Yes, and you can go to M&S and get a suit off the peg. It will fit you, ok-ish. Shotguns are all about fit. Having a gun made by Purdey or H&H means it's fitted to your exact requirements. If you have shot a rifle then you'll know how it feels in your shoulder, was the reach to the trigger comfortable? or did you have to stretch? That's what is called 'length of pull', Now consider the 'length of pull' wearing a T-shirt.. then wearing a shirt, sweater and coat.. it changes with what you wear. A custom built gun will be made to find a 'sweet spot' that suits all occasions regardless of what you're wearing. Probably visiting the gunmaker two maybe three times for fitting - just as you would for a bespoke suit. Oh and I'd stay clear of the old Dog and Duck... minimum legal requirement for shotguns are barrels no less than 24"..!!1200m is insane! I've only ever fired on a 100/200m range. Was given a nice Krupp rifle to shoot with. Felt very well balanced, seemed to suit me very well (better than a left handed rifle I was also given to try, seeing as I'm a southpaw). Asked how much such a rifle would cost to buy (as I was considering the possibility of moving to Norway, and taking up shooting as an activity), and was told it would be around 30,000 Norwegian Kroner (about £3000 at the time, so about £5,700 in today's money). Without the scope.
I don't get that. It's a shotgun. You can get one for a monkey, down the old Dog and Duck. And they'll kindly shorten it for you...
Yeah but ninety grand???Yes, and you can go to M&S and get a suit off the peg. It will fit you, ok-ish. Shotguns are all about fit. Having a gun made by Purdey or H&H means it's fitted to your exact requirements. If you have shot a rifle then you'll know how it feels in your shoulder, was the reach to the trigger comfortable? or did you have to stretch? That's what is called 'length of pull', Now consider the 'length of pull' wearing a T-shirt.. then wearing a shirt, sweater and coat.. it changes with what you wear. A custom built gun will be made to find a 'sweet spot' that suits all occasions regardless of what you're wearing. Probably visiting the gunmaker two maybe three times for fitting - just as you would for a bespoke suit. Oh and I'd stay clear of the old Dog and Duck... minimum legal requirement for shotguns are barrels no less than 24"..!!
Is that 10, 20, 30 and 50cm diameter rings? If so, that is very, very impressive at 600 yards!!! That grouping shows very good consistency. I quickly got to be able to consistently hit the 10 cm circle, and the 5cm inner bull at 100m, but given you're over 5 times the distance, that is much more impressive in my book!AZ6.. here you go. This target was shot at 600 yards... good few years ago now..!! My eyes were better back then..
View attachment 281628
The '10' spot is 40mm. Here's some others..Is that 10, 20, 30 and 50cm diameter rings? If so, that is very, very impressive at 600 yards!!! That grouping shows very good consistency. I quickly got to be able to consistently hit the 10 cm circle, and the 5cm inner bull at 100m, but given you're over 5 times the distance, that is much more impressive in my book!
Amazing. So that's a 18cm target at almost 550m? Bloody hell.The '10' spot is 40mm. Here's some others..
I can't remember the Norwegian requirement, but I'm sure it was pretty similar. You have to get a minimum number of shots inside the 5cmMinimum requirement for deer stalking is five shots in to 2.5"at 100m, shot prone, kneeling and standing - off sticks.
Absolutely. Get on the range and have other 'stuff' in your head and you'll never shoot the groups you want. Your state of mind, posture, breathing all come into play. I can be very 'Zen' like, I have watched outstanding shooters 'get in the zone'. Eyes shut, concentrating before the shot, almost 'seeing' the shot. Of course in a hunting scenario it's totally different. All senses are geared to seeing and hearing and being totally silent and still. Deer are wary creatures with amazing sense of smell and hearing. Let them know you're around and it can be a day wasted. If you still want to shoot, get yourself out to Bisley. There are lots of clubs who operate out of there, you might find something you like..,,,I did find it amazingly therapeutic and meditative though.
.Absolutely. Get on the range and have other 'stuff' in your head and you'll never shoot the groups you want. Your state of mind, posture, breathing all come into play. I can be very 'Zen' like, I have watched outstanding shooters 'get in the zone'. Eyes shut, concentrating before the shot, almost 'seeing' the shot. Of course in a hunting scenario it's totally different. All senses are geared to seeing and hearing and being totally silent and still. Deer are wary creatures with amazing sense of smell and hearing. Let them know you're around and it can be a day wasted. If you still want to shoot, get yourself out to Bisley. There are lots of clubs who operate out of there, you might find something you like..