Canon 5D MKIII official owners/users thread, anything related to the 5D MKIII

My camera arrived five days before the spring cashback offer started :razz:

I got my 24-70 from DitialRev about a week before the cash backs started. If I had waited I could have had a genuine UK one for only about £100 more.
Still, can't complain I guess. I did still save money.
 
Thought this might be the best place for my query.

All my gear is all Nikon at the moment and while it will cost a few £'S to change over I don't really fancy a D800 and think that a MK3 might be my best option from what else is available.

Have any of the MK3 users in here made the switch from Nikon and if so were there any major headaches, drawbacks etc.
 
I nearly went the other way and sold my gear to go for a D800e but after talking to a friend who owns a camera shop, I didn't bother... There are pros and cons for both systems and so it wasn't worth making the switch.

The AF system on the 5DMKIII is better than the D800e but that has no anti-aliasing filter and a higher resolution. I have friends who shoot with the Nikon and high-end glass and to be honest, there's nothing to choose between their kit and mine. My friends and I all shoot fast-moving aircraft and so performance is very critical and none of us have had cause to complain.

Best advice as always would be to try both and see how you feel. :)

Cheers,
Si
 
I would like to purchase some good quality ND filters for my 77mm lens (Canon EF 24 to 70mm F2.8 L USM Zoom)

Of course I'd like the Lee Big Stopper & others in the Lee range but the cost is crazy and I just can't justify paying that much for limited use.

Avoiding the cheap crap, what would you guys recommend?

Cheers
 
Simple... Hitech from Formatt Filters! Great quality and not as expensive as Lee (although I use both)! :)
 
Got mine today. OMG I have autofocus that works! Manual reading all I can now to figure it all out

DO I recall correctly that you shoot live music?

If so, you will probably trip over something on your first time out when the focus just works. Don't fear the outer points... :D
 
DO I recall correctly that you shoot live music?

If so, you will probably trip over something on your first time out when the focus just works. Don't fear the outer points... :D

Yeah, live music. Improved ISO and AF that means I don't have to use centre, recompose. I am nervous about trying it actually. Been so used to using centre with the Mk2 for years that I feel a learning curve in my first few shoots.

I have it set at group of 9 points, the setting where it acts like one shot focus unless it detects sufficient movement and to case 2 in the AF menu. Seemed logical when messing about in the house. Any tips for live music and the AF settings?
 
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I had my first time out to a zoo with my 5D today. An unplanned trip to Coldchester zoo.
The camera did well, I did a not so well. I'm trying to get used to using just the full stop ISO's and not Auto ISO. I just feel its something I've got lazy with.
I really love how you can see the meter changing in the VF when changing the ISO using te set button method, but I have a long way to go. I keep forgetting to change in when going in and out of the buildings. Thank god for raw.
This came out well though, especially as it was shot through thick cloudy glass.


Colechester Zoo by dave_bass5, on Flickr
 
I would like to purchase some good quality ND filters for my 77mm lens (Canon EF 24 to 70mm F2.8 L USM Zoom)

Of course I'd like the Lee Big Stopper & others in the Lee range but the cost is crazy and I just can't justify paying that much for limited use.

Avoiding the cheap crap, what would you guys recommend?

Cheers

Try the B+W filters, excellent quality.
 
I had my first time out to a zoo with my 5D today. An unplanned trip to Coldchester zoo.
The camera did well, I did a not so well. I'm trying to get used to using just the full stop ISO's and not Auto ISO. I just feel its something I've got lazy with.
I really love how you can see the meter changing in the VF when changing the ISO using te set button method, but I have a long way to go. I keep forgetting to change in when going in and out of the buildings. Thank god for raw.
This came out well though, especially as it was shot through thick cloudy glass.


Colechester Zoo by dave_bass5, on Flickr

That's very nice indeed! Quick question though, what is the benefit of limiting yourself to the 'full stop' ISO over using the intermediate values?
 
I had my first time out to a zoo with my 5D today. An unplanned trip to Coldchester zoo.
The camera did well, I did a not so well. I'm trying to get used to using just the full stop ISO's and not Auto ISO. I just feel its something I've got lazy with.
I really love how you can see the meter changing in the VF when changing the ISO using te set button method, but I have a long way to go. I keep forgetting to change in when going in and out of the buildings. Thank god for raw.
This came out well though, especially as it was shot through thick cloudy glass.


Colechester Zoo by dave_bass5, on Flickr

Nice one Dave.

What processing did you do on this if you don't mind asking?
 
Cheers guys.
I only put this shot through Lightroom, nothing fancy on this one (although I did go in to photoshop to get rid of a distracting branch, but did no other alterations to it).
Just a little bit of sharpening, exposure really. It's a heavy crop as well but I was l lucky with the light on this one. He was at the back of the cage with a window just above him.

The idea of using full stop ISO's was given to me in a thread over on PTON.
The in between settings are not "real" ISO's, they are electronically created in the camera. Either by lowering or boosting the base setting to achieve this. When shooting raw there doesn't seem to be a need for this, you can just push or pull the exposure in Lightroom with more control. Of course having the intermediate settings in camera gives you more control over the exposure by allowing more shutter/f stop combinations, but I thought it would be interesting to get back to basics and see how I get on.

I haven't run any tests so I don't know how big an advantage there is in doing this, I'm probably just making life needlessly harder, but I do find it quicker to go from an outdoor ISO to an indoor one quicker when not having the intermediate setting.....when I remember to change them.
 
Cheers guys.
I only put this shot through Lightroom, nothing fancy on this one (although I did go in to photoshop to get rid of a distracting branch, but did no other alterations to it).
Just a little bit of sharpening, exposure really. It's a heavy crop as well but I was l lucky with the light on this one. He was at the back of the cage with a window just above him.

The idea of using full stop ISO's was given to me in a thread over on PTON.
The in between settings are not "real" ISO's, they are electronically created in the camera. Either by lowering or boosting the base setting to achieve this. When shooting raw there doesn't seem to be a need for this, you can just push or pull the exposure in Lightroom with more control. Of course having the intermediate settings in camera gives you more control over the exposure by allowing more shutter/f stop combinations, but I thought it would be interesting to get back to basics and see how I get on.

I haven't run any tests so I don't know how big an advantage there is in doing this, I'm probably just making life needlessly harder, but I do find it quicker to go from an outdoor ISO to an indoor one quicker when not having the intermediate setting.....when I remember to change them.
i still prefer auto ISO. its one thing less i do not have to tweak or think about and because this camera can shoot 12800 and get usable results then why not?

i also set a minimum shutter speed and this works wonders for my needs.

there are times when u simply dont have the time to tweak ISO etc as you will miss that moment.
 
Yep, I agree with you, but there are also times where the camera will set the wrong exposure if left to its own devices.

For me its more just something to do, but if I'm in a certain place where the lighting is constant I prefer to l lock the ISO and exposure so the camera isn't thrown off by something in the frame.
Yesterday at the zoo the meter was all over the place. Shooting black haired animals in both outdoor and indoors lighting was bringing up all sorts of exposures. Even changing the metering resulted in exposures I don't want. I could have used EC but once I was in a certain area it was just as easy to lock it all down so nothing would throw anything off.
The problem came when I would move outside or indoors and foget that I wasn't using auto ISO.
I doubt ill use it all the time, but I am getting more of an idea how the metering works as I can compare what the meter is showing to how the exposure is actually coming out. Making the adjustments myself are a bit more time consuming but doing it this way I know nothing else will change. Even setting minimum shutter can sometimes cause the camera to use lower than has been set if it can't get the correct exposure.
The high ISO's are wonderful compared to older cameras but they still suffer from noise etc, just not as noticeable, if I can get away with using lower I will.
 
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Afternoon all, am looking upgrading to Full frame and am stuck between D800 and Canon 5d mk3!

Would really appreciate any help in deciding. Have done loads of research and just really more confused now ��
 
Buy a 5D. There sorted lol.

Seriously, you need to tell us what you expect and why you haven't just gone with one or the other already. Each Camera has its strengths and weaknesses, and assuming you have already done a a lot of reading on each you need to tell us your thoughts and ideas, pluses and minuses for each, in your opinion, and we can maybe help you choose.......to buy a 5D :)
 
Bailey81 said:
Afternoon all, am looking upgrading to Full frame and am stuck between D800 and Canon 5d mk3!

Would really appreciate any help in deciding. Have done loads of research and just really more confused now 

Dont forget to look at the lenses which are available for each system and their prices.
 
Mainly shoot landscape / still and then usual family stuff. Then also do bit of sport when family playing.

Therefore this led me towards the 5D but have nikon at present. So conundrum is that have option to trade in current system and upgrade. Been offered second hand 24-70 at great price with 5D.

But means changing all lenses and trading in flash, whereas can stay with nikon and just purchase D800 but only have 70-300 FX at present and all others DX so need to change these, although will still work.

But like the low light capability of Canon and extra FPS! Whereas Nikon offers great pixel quality, familiarity and less to change!

Hmmm, confused!!!!
 
I answered this question for someone on the last page... There's little (if anything) to choose between either camera. If you've already invested heavily in Nikon glass, stick with it. Go to a site like dpreview, pick both cameras and run them side-by-side with their comparison tool.

Honestly, you're the only one who can decide and for the sort of money we're talking, either will give you above average performance! :)
 
i am seriously thinking about getting shot of my D7000 and getting the 5Dmiii, id use it for graffiti, motorbike and some food, getting slowly into the food side.

question is, at the moment i have a sigma 17-50 2.8 the nikon and i like the DoF and speed of it, and the images are great, but i what should i look to get with my 5d, i have seen the offers that come with the 24-105, is this a good kit lens or is there something else from canon that better/cheaper???
 
Yeah, live music. Improved ISO and AF that means I don't have to use centre, recompose. I am nervous about trying it actually. Been so used to using centre with the Mk2 for years that I feel a learning curve in my first few shoots.

I have it set at group of 9 points, the setting where it acts like one shot focus unless it detects sufficient movement and to case 2 in the AF menu. Seemed logical when messing about in the house. Any tips for live music and the AF settings?

I've not really flexed the AF too much on live music yet, in fact I might give the 9 points method you set a go.

I set mine to only display cross type points and am quite happy with the results from the edge points. Still using one shot, but for brighter shows I'm going to have a play with servo as well.

Also a little nervous about trying too much at once...
 
There's a review on the latest ff cameras in the Spring edition of Practical Photography (in the shops now) I've not read the article yet but the 5d iii came out best in it. Might be worth a read for you.

That's a bit like saying....

The 36.3 MP D800 scoops the fiercely contested Amateur Photographer
Readers’ Product of the Year, Enthusiast Camera of the Year and Product of
the Year awards!

Find out more about the Amateur Photographer Award:
http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk...ap-awards-2013

Check out the award-winning spec:
http://www.europe-nikon.com/en_GB/pr...fessional/d800
 
Has anyone put the HDR or multi exposure modes to any use as yet that they can post on here?

I've seen it mentioned in some internet reviews but they didn't go into much detail.

Are they worthwhile additions or just a gimmick?
 
I've had a play with the in-camera HDR. I've never done any HDR before.

This image was hand held. Hope this works - I've only posted an image once before and can't remember what I did! I've put this image in my gallery.

I used Lightroom and the adjustment brush to further lower the exposure of the sea area.



edit: hmmm rather small :) but you can see it larger if you click on it!
 
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Has anyone put the HDR or multi exposure modes to any use as yet that they can post on here?

I've seen it mentioned in some internet reviews but they didn't go into much detail.

Are they worthwhile additions or just a gimmick?

I've also had a play with in camera HDR, but I mainly use it for the raw files and process the image myself.
The camera does a good job IMO but I don't want a JPG as I will normally do a bit more processing on the image in LR.

The multi exposure thing looks good but I've only used it twice, with very artistic but unpredictable results :)
 
I've had a play with the in-camera HDR. I've never done any HDR before.

This image was hand held. Hope this works - I've only posted an image once before and can't remember what I did! I've put this image in my gallery.

I used Lightroom and the adjustment brush to further lower the exposure of the sea area.



edit: hmmm rather small :) but you can see it larger if you click on it!

So apart from the adjusting of sea exposure you mentioned is everything else as it was processed straight out of camera?
 
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