The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

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Alan
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Missed an Eggleston opportunity with the last one :D

I thought about moving it for another shot but it probably wasn't really abandoned and the owners dad was probably bigger than me and hiding round the corner!
 
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Chris
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Anyone used to the 16-55 would feel right at home with it I think, or indeed the 90mm. The 90 is a little longer but about 100g lighter. Some reviewers have the viltrox down as being the better built. The hood for mine actually snaps on and off nicely, have seen many complain that theirs was either too tight or would not stay on at all. Mine came with the latest fw pre installed so maybe it's from a later batch? Hopefully give it a good try out after lunch - thanks again for the HU on the sale :)
Now got the 23mm f1.4 in again @ £165.
I must say I'm very tempted but don't think I'll use it that much
 
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14,827
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Keith
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Now got the 23mm f1.4 in again @ £165.
I must say I'm very tempted but don't think I'll use it that much
I'd have to sell my XC 35 F2, but I'm liking that one, for such a cheap Fuji lens it's a cracker. I think if I'm to add another lens it'll be wider than 23 but that is a steal of a price. If CFD doesn't bother you, if you're mostly using it as a wide angle [street, landscape, architecture, group shots or events] - I can actually get better bokeh for example and get in closer with the 35 and I like that kind of shooting. If I could swing it without selling the 35 I probably would snap one up though
 
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Chris
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I'd have to sell my XC 35 F2, but I'm liking that one, for such a cheap Fuji lens it's a cracker. I think if I'm to add another lens it'll be wider than 23 but that is a steal of a price. If CFD doesn't bother you, if you're mostly using it as a wide angle [street, landscape, architecture, group shots or events] - I can actually get better bokeh for example and get in closer with the 35 and I like that kind of shooting. If I could swing it without selling the 35 I probably would snap one up though
That's why I don't think I'd use it enough to warrant the purchase. I've also got the Fuji 35 f1.4 and love that lens. It's just such a good price for this Viltrox lens
 
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14,827
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Keith
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That's why I don't think I'd use it enough to warrant the purchase. I've also got the Fuji 35 f1.4 and love that lens. It's just such a good price for this Viltrox lens
The 35 1.4 is the best for closer focus of all the 23,35 range. I've owned that one twice now and wouldn't count out owning a third. I never owned a 23 as its too close for my liking to 35, I think if you go 23 then something like the 50 F2 is a better match
 
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Here's a few street style shots taken last week on x-t100 with xc-35mm lens. 99% of the time I have my camera in aperture priority mode, and usually at 5.6 if I just want to keep moving and shooting without thinking about the settings. It was a very sunny day when I took these and I think I would have been better off going for f8 or lower. I haven't had a chance to try some night time street shots which is something I am really looking forward to.

DSCF2132 by Tom A, on Flickr

DSCF2201 by Tom A, on Flickr
 
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5,547
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David
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Here's a few street style shots taken last week on x-t100 with xc-35mm lens. 99% of the time I have my camera in aperture priority mode, and usually at 5.6 if I just want to keep moving and shooting without thinking about the settings. It was a very sunny day when I took these and I think I would have been better off going for f8 or lower. I haven't had a chance to try some night time street shots which is something I am really looking forward to.
Its a happy balance between getting a fast enough shutter speed to ensure sharp images, and nailing the point of focus. If you have plenty of light then shooting at small apertures (F8 and beyond) will help ensure sharpness throughout the image, without having to be certain of nailing focus on teh suject, there or therabouts will be good enough.

I personally set my 'street shooting' up as

Aperture Priority
F4
Auto ISO 200-6400
Min Shutter Speed 1/200

I then concentrate on nailing focus, I'm often looking to isolate subjects so am not too concerned about ultimate front to back sharpness
 
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127
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Its a happy balance between getting a fast enough shutter speed to ensure sharp images, and nailing the point of focus. If you have plenty of light then shooting at small apertures (F8 and beyond) will help ensure sharpness throughout the image, without having to be certain of nailing focus on teh suject, there or therabouts will be good enough.

I personally set my 'sheet shooting' up as

Aperture Priority
F4
Auto ISO 200-6400
Min Shutter Speed 1/200

I then concentrate on nailing focus, I'm often looking to isolate subjects so am not too concerned about ultimate front to back sharpness
Yeah I do go to 2 if there is something I want in focus with the rest of the image blurred. Looking back through the set from this day most of the shutter speeds were 1/250-1/600
 
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Paul
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My 2 months old X-T4 is going back to Fujifilm for replacement. Intermittently, both the LCD screen and viewfinder flickers and very bright on startup. Took it back to John Lewis this afternoon where I bought it from during the lockdown. Since it is within the one-year guarantee I'll get a replacement instead of repair.
Argh that sucks ....
I`m very wary of buying new released stuff nowadays, since being bitten by the Nikon D750 debarcle. Good that you`re getting a replacement though, and fingers crossed, without issues this time around.
 
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14,827
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Keith
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My 2 months old X-T4 is going back to Fujifilm for replacement. Intermittently, both the LCD screen and viewfinder flickers and very bright on startup. Took it back to John Lewis this afternoon where I bought it from during the lockdown. Since it is within the one-year guarantee I'll get a replacement instead of repair.
That sucks, hopefully you'll have better luck with the replacement. Not heard of this issue with these cameras before
 
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18,160
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Argh that sucks ....
I`m very wary of buying new released stuff nowadays, since being bitten by the Nikon D750 debarcle. Good that you`re getting a replacement though, and fingers crossed, without issues this time around.
At least recalls last much longer than the usual 1yr UK warranty and apply to all regions.
 
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88
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X100V owners are any of you using the JJC adaptor ring with a filter for weather sealing? Seems a lot cheaper option than the Fuji one.
I use the Fujifilm X70 adapter ring and lens hood on my X100V. It is £19.99 plus p&p on the Fujifilm UK Refurb site under the Offers heading and looks superb on the camera and doesn't intrude too much when using the OVF.

I have the silver one but black is available and a 49mm filter fits inside perfectly. A cheapo 49mm lens cap from Amazon fits on the lens hood.

 
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327
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Steve
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Has anyone used the 2X converter on the 50-140 ?
I have the lens and would be nice to add the converter but they are as rare as hens teeth at the moment especially second hand.
 
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Leroy
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Has anyone used the 2X converter on the 50-140 ?
I have the lens and would be nice to add the converter but they are as rare as hens teeth at the moment especially second hand.
I use the 1.4x on my 100-400 with very good results. I watched a 2X on eBay just to see how much they went for and I was surprised as it only sold for £260.
 
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5,547
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David
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Not at all. Still getting to grips with everything so constructive criticism is great.
Use the histogram and don't go off the right hand side, unless intentional! The Fuji's are sensitive to blowing the highlights, but conversely are good at recovering shadows, Here is an example (that I use in one of my workshops) taken using an X-T2, so same sensor as yours. top is original RAW, bottom just uses the Shadows Slider in Lightroom to recover the shadows - lights are still blown out on front of Lowry Theatre, but there is on ly so far you can go!! But it shows what your sensor is capable of.



Edited - This was an X-Trans sensor, I've not any experience of the later Bayer sensors - ie X-T100
 
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377
Name
Chris
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Very tempted by the eInfinity price on the 100-400 at £1079. I know it's grey but that's not much more than some eBay used sales (one want for £960 yesterday) and I believe eInfinity are a well regarded and trusted operation? Unless I spot a used bargain in the next day or 2, I might go for it by the end of the week.
 
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377
Name
Chris
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Use the histogram and don't go off the right hand side, unless intentional! The Fuji's are sensitive to blowing the highlights, but conversely are good at recovering shadows, Here is an example (that I use in one of my workshops) taken using an X-T2, so same sensor as yours. top is original RAW, bottom just uses the Shadows Slider in Lightroom to recover the shadows - lights are still blown out on front of Lowry Theatre, but there is on ly so far you can go!! But it shows what your sensor is capable of.



Edited - This was an X-Trans sensor, I've not any experience of the later Bayer sensors - ie X-T100
Is there any extra noise reduction on that, or just purely bringing up the levels? It's very impressive. As an ex Olympus shooter I've been in the habit of exposing to the right, I'm still getting used to the do's and don'ts of the fuji (x-h1)
 
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5,547
Name
David
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Is there any extra noise reduction on that, or just purely bringing up the levels? It's very impressive. As an ex Olympus shooter I've been in the habit of exposing to the right, I'm still getting used to the do's and don'ts of the fuji (x-h1)
Just the shadows slider - X-H1 is the same sensor. The Olympus has a bit more headroom in the highlights (going off the Histogram), but actually the DR or the X-T2 and OMD-1 Mk2 is pretty similar but the displayed histograms are in different places!!! - If you want to really impressive just use a GFX!! :ROFLMAO:



 
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