Advice Please: Light Trails From Moving Car At Night

DowntonMini

DowntonMini

Messages
4,562
Name
Mark Gameson
Edit My Images
Yes
Evening All

Hopefully I've posted this in the right place.

I'm after a bit of advise.

I'm a member of my local camera club and every year one of the competitions they hold has a different theme, this years is light through a window I have spent ages looking for the right picture then it hit me.

Light trails from inside a moving car! So after a bit of research I gave it a go with no luck.

I used the following

Nikon D3100 50-200 afs lens

ISO 100 F16 30 sec

The camera kept saying subject too dark tried upping the ISO to 800 still the same.

Can anyone suggest anything that may help.

Tonight's (the first attempt) was a test run as it's was raining and I need to clean the glass on the car.

Thanks in advance

Ps I wasn't driving while taking the pictures incase anyone was wondering
 
Moving long exposures are reativly simple if you want them to be but you can also make them really special too I've done a few of them and they have come out reasonable well...

The biggest challenge is actually keeping the camera still, there are a couple of routes you can go down though possible the most secure route is to use suction mounts onto your car window, though I'm guessing you don't actually want to go and buy extra kit just for a comportition picture :LOL: so realistically you need to look to securing your tripod as best as you can (y) if you have a flashgun and trigger for it you can position that discreetly to illuminate the interior...

Something to consider is that most of the best moving long exposures the car isn't moving nearly as far as you might think, with the exposure actually being a minute plus and the car actually moving at around walking pace, I've even known for photographers to actually push the car to ensure smooth travel and vibration free trails

What camera mode are you in the fact that its says scene to dark makes be think its a guided mode, you really need to be in manually ideally bulb for this type of shot and have full control over the exposure

Settings wise I'd be lower ISO which for me on my 5D3 I consider 100-640 but what ever your happy with on your camera you might not want to go that high, but put basically I'd expect low ISO, f/8-10 should more than surfice for what your doing but you may find if the lights are really numerous externally that you have to close up a little tighter then exposure on bulb running for at least 30 seconds driving smooth and steady being the key

Matt
 
MWHCVT said:
Moving long exposures are reativly simple if you want them to be but you can also make them really special too I've done a few of them and they have come out reasonable well...

The biggest challenge is actually keeping the camera still, there are a couple of routes you can go down though possible the most secure route is to use suction mounts onto your car window, though I'm guessing you don't actually want to go and buy extra kit just for a comportition picture :LOL: so realistically you need to look to securing your tripod as best as you can (y) if you have a flashgun and trigger for it you can position that discreetly to illuminate the interior...

Something to consider is that most of the best moving long exposures the car isn't moving nearly as far as you might think, with the exposure actually being a minute plus and the car actually moving at around walking pace, I've even known for photographers to actually push the car to ensure smooth travel and vibration free trails

What camera mode are you in the fact that its says scene to dark makes be think its a guided mode, you really need to be in manually ideally bulb for this type of shot and have full control over the exposure

Settings wise I'd be lower ISO which for me on my 5D3 I consider 100-640 but what ever your happy with on your camera you might not want to go that high, but put basically I'd expect low ISO, f/8-10 should more than surfice for what your doing but you may find if the lights are really numerous externally that you have to close up a little tighter then exposure on bulb running for at least 30 seconds driving smooth and steady being the key

Matt
Click to expand...

Thanks Matt

I was using Manual mode. I have a flash gun and and trigger so I will have another play over the weekend. Hopefully it will be dry this time!

kestral said:
View attachment 3534 Full Frame, 20mm at f10 @ 30sec ,ISO 200.Camera on tripod one leg in foot area other two legs either side of the seat.Make sure there are traffic lights about to get the colours.Manual mode.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kestral thats the sort of shot I'm looking for.

Never thought about traffic liights, did you light the interior?
 
Loving that shot Kestral

I'd say Kestral never lit the interior judging by the direction of the lighting. Looks more like the outside ambient light and console doing all the work.
May give this a go myself.... How hard can it be! Lol
 
It is just ambient light.Make sure you clean the windscreen inside and out also remove the tax disc :whistle:
View attachment 3543
I got some very strange results.This effect was created by traveling along a duel carriage way with light stands in the middle of the road then the road dipped half way through the exposure.
 
Well I had a play tonight just loading the pictures on to the computer will upload them shortly.

Tried two approaches first using a clamp to the head rear support then putting the camera between the top of the seat and base of the head rest.

Some very long exposures my finger is now dropping off
 
First attempt short exposure to test (using clmap)


DSC_0348 by MARKGAMESON1 (Downton Mini/Mini59), on Flickr

Next about 2 1/2 Minute exposure IMHO to much shake (using clamp)


DSC_0349 by MARKGAMESON1 (Downton Mini/Mini59), on Flickr

Next Just over 5 Minute Exposure again to much shake (using clamp)


DSC_0350 by MARKGAMESON1 (Downton Mini/Mini59), on Flickr

Next another short exsposure (camera between seat and head rest)


DSC_0350 by MARKGAMESON1 (Downton Mini/Mini59), on Flickr

A Bit better


DSC_0353 by MARKGAMESON1 (Downton Mini/Mini59), on Flickr
 
5 minutes is way to long on an exposure at normal driving speeds...if you want to do exposures that long your going to have to slow the car to walking pace, if you want to do it at normal speeds then your really looking at 30 seconds tops and as I've said you need to get the camera firmly secure in the car..you are using a trigger?
 
landwomble said:
All the ones with the interior nor sharp look awful IMHO. Shorter exposure ftw!
Click to expand...

Thank you I can understand that and agree completely. I've got a suction cup for my gopro so will have a look and see if i can use that
 
I'm really up for giving this a go. Think I'll try wedging the tripod in the passenger seat and stick the roof down...
 
MWHCVT said:
I've just spotted that your using the D3100 would I be right in saying that is one of the nikons the can only use the god awful IR triggers?
Click to expand...

Not sure I've got a hahnel cable shutter release that I got when I subscribed to nphoto but cannot get it to work.
 
Downton Mini said:
Not sure I've got a hahnel cable shutter release that I got when I subscribed to nphoto but cannot get it to work.
Click to expand...

I've been looking and it appears that there is a wired remote for the 3100 it may have just been the 3000 that only had the option of IR Triggers and there are woeful in my experience of seeing them in use, being a canon shooter I'm always at a little bit of a disadvantage when discussing Nikon, it maybe that you need to tell the camera in your menus that your using a cable release?
 
Good point I'll have a look at the manual in the morning I tried using a tripod to support the camera bit I just could get it in a position I was happy with will have another go

I'm looking at the trigger trap option as a shutter release appears to have good reviews
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well it looks like a dodge connection on the plug that connects the cable to the camera if I move it the release works
 
Downton Mini said:
Well it looks like a dodge connection on the plug that connects the cable to the camera if I move it the release works
Click to expand...

I've had similar issues myself in the past it can be a real pain in the arse :LOL:
 
MWHCVT said:
I've had similar issues myself in the past it can be a real pain in the arse :LOL:
Click to expand...

Tell me about it not sure if it's the cable or camera will have a look.

Are the fat gecko suction holders any good? Thinking of getting one as I do lots of runs in the car and if I got a trigger trap release I think I would get some use out of it. The only issue being the care I drive a Minis so not exact the smoothest ride
 
Downton Mini said:
Tell me about it not sure if it's the cable or camera will have a look.

Are the fat gecko suction holders any good? Thinking of getting one as I do lots of runs in the car and if I got a trigger trap release I think I would get some use out of it. The only issue being the care I drive a Minis so not exact the smoothest ride
Click to expand...

Just looked at it and I see no reason why that wouldn't do the trick for you (y)
 
Well I had a look at the shutter release and I was usig the wrong pluG:whistle: so now thats working time to get a mount and try again!
 
Downton Mini said:
Well I had a look at the shutter release and I was usig the wrong pluG:whistle: so now thats working time to get a mount and try again!
Click to expand...

:LOL: :LOL: now that's not something I've ever done, I have been known to go out without part of my wireless trigger set meaning I've had to resort to using it as a botched wired trigger :LOL: but I've never stuck it in the wrong hole :eek: :D
 
Right so now have have worked out to use the shutter release (i used to be blond!) I have just won a suction mount form ebay with double suction cups and a longish arm. So I'm set to try again.

This time I will set the holder back on the pasengers side front window as possible. Use the release cable for 30 second exposures and try different lenses mainly 18-55 kit lens, 10-20 sigma, and my 50 -200 dont think its worth using the 70-300.

If I was to place a toruch in the footwell to light the interior slightly would that make a big difference to the picture?
 
Ok this will sound like a stupid question but how I get an off camera flash to work using manual settings as i've never used a flash in manual!
 
Downton Mini said:
Ok this will sound like a stupid question but how I get an off camera flash to work using manual settings as i've never used a flash in manual!
Click to expand...

What do you mean work? I'm assuming you've got the required triggers and have used them before, the only difference is that your using them on a long exposure, where as in normal use your using flash to keep your exposures short and to expose the subject, now your using it to just freeze the action inside the car while also using the long exposure to pick up ambient light outside of the car...personally I would sync your flash at the beginning of the exposure...now this is the safety bit please don't use flash at normal driving speeds I'd hate for you to get dazzled or the driver if your not driving
 
kestral said:
View attachment 3534 Full Frame, 20mm at f10 @ 30sec ,ISO 200.Camera on tripod one leg in foot area other two legs either side of the seat.Make sure there are traffic lights about to get the colours.Manual mode.
Click to expand...
I told you how to do it here.No trigger was used I just set the camera with a 2sec delay before firing for 30sec.If you use flash the colour balance will be different from the exterior lighting you will also get reflections from the flash on the glass windows.A 30 sec ambient exposure will overpower the flash so movement will not be stopped. It is as simple as I have said as long as you have a tripod you don't need clamps.
 
I've used a flash trigger before but in a studio setting which was set up by other members of the club so I have never used my triggers and don't know what settings to use on the flash
 
No not yet these were done at between 30/40 mph need to find a quite road to do slower speed runs
 
It is a bit isn't it I never look at that one!! Will have another go tomorrow night need to find some quieter roads that are lit
 
What about taking a photo of the interior with the car stationary so it's sharp then using Photoshop to put the light trails into the picture??

David
 
A friend and I had an improptu go at this one evening.

Camera is hand held, but supported by the passenger seat. Interior is lit by a flash on low intensity but wide spread from the passenger footwell.

I've been meaning to try this again with a tripod.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top