The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

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Nick
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I’ve today experienced the fabled Fuji service centre. I had a card slot issue develop in my T3 but due to work commitments in December I couldn’t send it off for repair (even though I’d booked it in late November!) so I worked with a single card (that’s taking myself out of my comfort zone I can tell you) anyway I called on Monday and explained my situation and the guy said it’s fine send it in with the packaging they’d supplied me in November. Received a text this morning saying it’s fixed and on its way back! They would have received it on Wednesday. That’s incredible service normally, let alone mid pandemic.

Hats off to them for the service
 
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Chris
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How good/bad is the x-t20 ? It seems small and reasonably priced s/h so I was thinking about moving from m43

I had been thinking about an x100f but I now from experience that I’d miss a floppy screen and different focal lengths
I moved from m43 (Oly EM10ii and EM5ii) to a Fuji (XH1) and have no regrets. Although I didn't really have complaints with the Oly gear either.
 
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Craig
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I'm really rather tempted to pick up a 16-55. Is it truly as good as it's made out to be throughout the range wide open, and in the corners?

I've been a prime shooter for the past few years but finding myself more and more wanting the convenience. Its very rare I shoot wider than 2.8 anyway...
 
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Lewis
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Does anybody have any hints for filming? Specifically focusing?

I made a film with my son as part of his schoolwork, I had my X-T2 mounted on a tripod, with my usual photographing kids settings f2.8, auto shutter and ISO, with AF set to "C". However the focus is all over the place. Should I have just set it to "M", and left it? Maybe with a smaller aperture?
 
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Nathan
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Every time I take the battery from the X-T20 for charging I lose all my settings? So I have to manually input everything again. Anyone else have this problem before?
 
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Paul
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Deceptively simple. I should imagine that might be tricky to photograph.
Thanks, Neville (y)
It did take a fair bit of one handed faffing ;) Rotolight aimed through a crystal ball from behind. So it was a bit awkward to get the light where I wanted it to land.
 
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I'm really rather tempted to pick up a 16-55. Is it truly as good as it's made out to be throughout the range wide open, and in the corners?

I've been a prime shooter for the past few years but finding myself more and more wanting the convenience. Its very rare I shoot wider than 2.8 anyway...
I picked one up not too long ago, and really like it (having only used primes, bar a very short stint with the 55-200). I haven`t done any tests regarding corner v centre sharpness etc. But it`s a great lump of glass.
 
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Chris
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I'm really rather tempted to pick up a 16-55. Is it truly as good as it's made out to be throughout the range wide open, and in the corners?

I've been a prime shooter for the past few years but finding myself more and more wanting the convenience. Its very rare I shoot wider than 2.8 anyway...
Its a great bit of glass; I personally have had both it and the primes (16/23/35) in the past and aside from losing f1.4-f2.8 your not missing much; I do rate the 16 f1.4 a little higher with sharpness and corner performance but its very very close.
 
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Simon
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I'm really rather tempted to pick up a 16-55. Is it truly as good as it's made out to be throughout the range wide open, and in the corners?

I've been a prime shooter for the past few years but finding myself more and more wanting the convenience. Its very rare I shoot wider than 2.8 anyway...
Yes it is excellent. I generally prefer primes but this is great wide open. My only dislike is the weight and size, but you can’t get this type of lens for the same weight as a 50mm prime! Better IMO than the Nikon 24-70
 
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David
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Its a great bit of glass; I personally have had both it and the primes (16/23/35) in the past and aside from losing f1.4-f2.8 your not missing much; I do rate the 16 f1.4 a little higher with sharpness and corner performance but its very very close.
@Craigus Thiis ^

I have recently swapped from lots of primes to 16-55 and 50-140, the 16-55 is like have a bunch of primes in one box! That said the 16mm F1.4 is something special.
 
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First set of landscape shots I've taken in quite a while. These from a foggy Kenwood House in Hampstead Heath this morning. I was too lazy to get out of bed after my 7:00 alarm but my wife persuaded me to get up at 8:30. Thankfully the fog was still around. All with my X-T2 and the 18-55mm lens. I've not tried to be consistent with the processing so these range from pretty much straight out of camera to heavy-handed and probably over the top. I will probably revisit after I've lived with them for a day or two. I think my monitors are dying and I don't have consistent colours across them despite my best attempts to calibrate. I hope these don't look too bad on your screens. Thanks for looking

1. The House in fog
Kenwood II by Ian, on Flickr

2. The shot I had planned to take
Kenwood III by Ian, on Flickr

3. Probably my favourite from the day, though 1 pushes it close
Kenwood IV by Ian, on Flickr

4. Record shot of the House
Kenwood I by Ian, on Flickr
 
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I'm getting to grips with a new to me x100F after spending 15 years using Canon 5D's everyday...I'm really struggling to nail focus at f2.

Using the optical viewfinder with the live view in the bottom right, I swear I've had this on before displaying the focus area at 100%. Well handy. However now it seems to just display the whole capture area, not zoomed in at all. I've checked the manual and searched with no joy. Probably something really simple...Any idea's how to get it to show the focus area again so I can check AF is hitting the right spot.

Ideas?
 
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5,801
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David
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I'm getting to grips with a new to me x100F after spending 15 years using Canon 5D's everyday...I'm really struggling to nail focus at f2.

Using the optical viewfinder with the live view in the bottom right, I swear I've had this on before displaying the focus area at 100%. Well handy. However now it seems to just display the whole capture area, not zoomed in at all. I've checked the manual and searched with no joy. Probably something really simple...Any idea's how to get it to show the focus area again so I can check AF is hitting the right spot.

Ideas?
Try pressing the back control wheel - its a switch as well as a wheel.

As an aside the X100F lens at F2 is a little soft especially with close up subjects, but it can have its own charm, you will probably get sharper results at F2.8 with close up subjects accepti8ng the loss of razor thin DOF!
 
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Simon
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I've just entered the Fuji mirrorless world, with my new X-S10 being delivered end of last week. Weather + Covid travel restrictions have limited opportunity to do much so far, so I'm taking to opportunity of digging into the menus which are quite different and appear to have many more options than those on my previous DSLR Canons and my current Panasonic compact & bridge cameras. There are many things to get my head around but two bugging me currently are:
1. I don't understand when or why I should be using the electronic shutter over the mechanical shutter (unless it's purely for quietness/being less obtrusive).
2. On my Canons and Panasonics, ISO Setting options were basically "Auto" or increasing incremental. As well as full manual control over ISO, the Fuji gives me 3 auto settings which I believe are customisable, but by default are set (in my camera) as
  • Auto 1: Base 160, Limit 800
  • Auto 2: Base 160, Limit 3200
  • Auto 3: Base 160, Limit 12800
Is the option to have the different settings purely to limit the max ISO so allowing customisation for different shooting scenarios where you might want to limit the ISO (I guess I'm trying to understand why there's not just one 'auto' setting.

Thanks in advance
 
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5,801
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David
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I've just entered the Fuji mirrorless world, with my new X-S10 being delivered end of last week. Weather + Covid travel restrictions have limited opportunity to do much so far, so I'm taking to opportunity of digging into the menus which are quite different and appear to have many more options than those on my previous DSLR Canons and my current Panasonic compact & bridge cameras. There are many things to get my head around but two bugging me currently are:
1. I don't understand when or why I should be using the electronic shutter over the mechanical shutter (unless it's purely for quietness/being less obtrusive).
2. On my Canons and Panasonics, ISO Setting options were basically "Auto" or increasing incremental. As well as full manual control over ISO, the Fuji gives me 3 auto settings which I believe are customisable, but by default are set (in my camera) as
  • Auto 1: Base 160, Limit 800
  • Auto 2: Base 160, Limit 3200
  • Auto 3: Base 160, Limit 12800
Is the option to have the different settings purely to limit the max ISO so allowing customisation for different shooting scenarios where you might want to limit the ISO (I guess I'm trying to understand why there's not just one 'auto' setting.

Thanks in advance
Welcome to the world of Fujifilm

Electronic shutter is for quietness and when the exposure time is so short the mechanical shutter won't cope. The electronic shutter is a rolling shutter, so can get banding effects when used on moving objects. For normal shooting I would recommend the Mechanical Shutter, there is an M+E option in the camera which will operate mechanically and automatically switch you to electronic shutter if the exposure time gets very short.

Yes you are right about Auto ISO, it allows different base/max combinations, you can also set a minimum target shutter speed, so you could for instance set the min shutter speed to 1/60 for typical handheld landscape shots, but perhaps choose 1/200th if you were shooting street to avoid motion blur.
 
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1,091
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Nick
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Every time I take the battery from the X-T20 for charging I lose all my settings? So I have to manually input everything again. Anyone else have this problem before?
Sounds like an internal battery issue (although IIRC it's a capacitor arrangement rather than an actual battery). I've read of X-T3s with this issue, and it's usually accompanied by the camera draining the battery while it's not in use. It's not normal, and is a repair job I think. Happy to be corrected though.
 
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Simon
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Welcome to the world of Fujifilm

Electronic shutter is for quietness and when the exposure time is so short the mechanical shutter won't cope. The electronic shutter is a rolling shutter, so can get banding effects when used on moving objects. For normal shooting I would recommend the Mechanical Shutter, there is an M+E option in the camera which will operate mechanically and automatically switch you to electronic shutter if the exposure time gets very short.

Yes you are right about Auto ISO, it allows different base/max combinations, you can also set a minimum target shutter speed, so you could for instance set the min shutter speed to 1/60 for typical handheld landscape shots, but perhaps choose 1/200th if you were shooting street to avoid motion blur.
Thanks David! (y)
 
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Jon
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Just got a new Fuji XF10 and testing it out. Shooting in Jpeg in auto white balance. Some photos come out ok, while the next is bright orange, and it happens every so often. :thinking:

Any thoughts?
 
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43
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Nathan
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Sounds like an internal battery issue (although IIRC it's a capacitor arrangement rather than an actual battery). I've read of X-T3s with this issue, and it's usually accompanied by the camera draining the battery while it's not in use. It's not normal, and is a repair job I think. Happy to be corrected though.
Thanks for getting back to me. Yeah I believe it has to get sent back. Luckily it's still in warranty.
 
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